AzShooter Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 I bought the kit for .38-45 forcing cone cutter with an 11 degree cut. I'm having the hardest time getting it to cut the barrel. I've got the right oil from Brownells and their kit but after an hour it don't look like I've been working on it at all and I get no chips on the tool. Is there a secret I should know? Do you think I need to order a new cutter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toothguy Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 The cutter should be razor sharp. As you are cutting in a clockwise direction pull firmly away from the frame toward you. The cutter should shave the metal fairly easily as the brass collet keeps it centered. It should only take a minute or so, every few turns blow the cutter off with compressed air and re-oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 It sounds like that cutter was not ground correctly. I would trade it in for another one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 Not to be a smart a@@ but did the cutter come with a rubberized coating? Some do so the cutters don't get dulled or cut something in shipment. If it did you need to peel it off. If you're gong the proper direction, after an hour you would have no forcing cone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Are you using the cutter or the brass lap? Post a pic of the cutter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 I'm using the cutter Pat. Glad to hear it may not be ground properly. I'll order a new one. There is no rubber on it Psky2. Thanks for all the advice. I've got the Brownells catalog in front of me and will re order today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 You have the proper depth gauge yes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 You have the proper depth gauge yes? Yes. Had to buy it separately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 I've seen info from Clymer stating if you rotate their cutters in reverse, they will dull quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 Never rotated in reverse. I read that in the instructions. Guess I just got a bad one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg K Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Maybe you got the one that I sent back because it wouldn't cut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadShot Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Hi Guys, Just curious, why are you re-cutting the forcing cone? Is 11 degrees different from the factory cut? How do you know if a revolver needs to have the forcing cone re-cut? Thanks, Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toothguy Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Hi Guys, Just curious, why are you re-cutting the forcing cone? Is 11 degrees different from the factory cut? How do you know if a revolver needs to have the forcing cone re-cut? Thanks, Skip It's more of a taper than the factory cut providing a better transition for the bullet to meet the rifling. I think it's something that Ron Power came up with for better accuracy in PPC guns. Many times from the factory the forcing cone and the muzzle chamfer are cut off center and you can improve accuracy by re-cutting them concentric. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 I'm looking for the nth degree in accuracy. I did the crown myself and saw a great improvement. Posts here explained the forcing cone would also add some consistency to the groups so I want to try to do it myself. The factory does not use an 11 degree cutter but that is what's in the kit I bought. There is also has an 18 degree but I believe 11 is the norm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Hi Guys, Just curious, why are you re-cutting the forcing cone? Is 11 degrees different from the factory cut? How do you know if a revolver needs to have the forcing cone re-cut? Thanks, Skip It's more of a taper than the factory cut providing a better transition for the bullet to meet the rifling. I think it's something that Ron Power came up with for better accuracy in PPC guns. Many times from the factory the forcing cone and the muzzle chamfer are cut off center and you can improve accuracy by re-cutting them concentric. I find piloted cutters always follow the existing hole to some degree. If the forcing cone is cut off center, only a lathe and a single point cutter is going to correct it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toothguy Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Hi Guys, Just curious, why are you re-cutting the forcing cone? Is 11 degrees different from the factory cut? How do you know if a revolver needs to have the forcing cone re-cut? Thanks, Skip It's more of a taper than the factory cut providing a better transition for the bullet to meet the rifling. I think it's something that Ron Power came up with for better accuracy in PPC guns. Many times from the factory the forcing cone and the muzzle chamfer are cut off center and you can improve accuracy by re-cutting them concentric. I find piloted cutters always follow the existing hole to some degree. If the forcing cone is cut off center, only a lathe and a single point cutter is going to correct it. Pat, perhaps I'm using the wrong term (off center). From the factory some of my revolvers look as though the shaft of the cutter was not held parallel with the bore almost as if a pilot was not used. When the correct size pilot is used it follows the bore fairly exactly removing an equal amount of metal. I guess I'm a little confused, It seems like you would want the forcing cone and the muzzle chamfer to be centered with the (existing hole) or bore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWP Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 I bought two from Brownells last year, neither cut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan454 Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 My throat cutter requires very little effort to get started if the cone is properly cleaned and oiled beforehand. I did have one 45 throat reammer that just wouldn't cut, sent it in for a replacement and the next one worked just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavallino Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 I've used that cutter setup on several barrels and some cut easier than others. Repeated firing seems to work harden/case harden the metal around the forcing cone and makes it extremely hard to cut. Once you get through the hard spot it will cut like butter. You need the gun setup in a vice and pull back extremely hard whilst turning the cutter or use the drill adapter and spin it with a battery drill and use plenty of good cutting fluid. But if you want extreme accuracy pull the barrel, set it up in a lathe and turn it back one turn and recut the forcing cone with a sharp single point tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamboo Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 I used a brownells cutter on mine because the forcing cone was very rough from the factory, almost like a cheese grater. It did take a lot of pressure as described above, and I used the brass lap to finish it up. Afterwards the gun definitely shot better groups. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okshootist Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 My experience has been that most factory forcing cones are at or very near maximum dimensions. I've found that an oversized forcing cone can be more problematic than one that is imperfect, so I don't recommend recutting the cone without setting the barrel back. But, if you just have to do it, the Manson revolver barrel tool with it's piloted cutters and spring tension provides much more control and a cleaner cut than the one sold by Brownell's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted March 20, 2016 Author Share Posted March 20, 2016 Got my second cutter from Brownells this morning. Tried again but still could not get it to cut. So, I called my friendly Gunsmith and asked him to do it for me. $20 later and I was out of the shop with my forcing cone cut. I guess that's one operation I will leave to the professional. Thanks for all the advice and help. Wish I could have done it myself but I wimped out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 I have often wondered how much accuracy improvement from things like cutting forcing cones is actually the result of the placebo effect, or the result of subconsciously affecting the testing. People who spend money and time modifying a gun and really want to see group improvement.....will probably see group improvement, regardless of whether the gun is truly more accurate or not. It's funny, I see people who obsess about accuracy who have not reached the skill level to extract anything close to the practical accuracy capability of the sloppiest, most mediocre revolver from the factory. I say forget worrying about forcing cones, invest your cash in primers instead, and go shoot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miranda Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 Hi Mike, I like your point that practice is a good way to spend one's time, efforts, and coin. there is one thing to add to this. At some point, to do the practice as required, one (me as well) must be fairly sure the pistol is beyond question. That is the pistol puts bullets where it is aimed. so 'flyers' are known to be the shooter. I practiced a lot with a 22 rifle... I was never sure if the random miss was me, the rifle, or the ammo. ... some were me but there were others where I am sure I had the aim. see how it works? miranda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revoman Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 How accurate does a revolver have to be? 2" at 50 yards for ICORE is sufficient and in USPSA could be a little bigger as most shots are 25 yards or less. If revolver was to be used in Bullseye or Bianchi then the sub 1 moa at 50 yards is the norm. I am like Mike (heaven forbid ?) shoot fast, shoot often and practice. Someday I might even be as good as Mike. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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