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Alaskan454

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About Alaskan454

  • Rank
    Calls Shots

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    Male
  • Interests
    Revolvers

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  1. I'd use Trail Boss for your low PF needs and Tite Group for the rest. I shot a 625 at Steel Challenge for a year or so, running only 650 fps. Trail Boss burns very clean at low pressure compared to other powders.
  2. FWIW, I busted out my first ever revolver (6" GP100) for some steel practice the other day. I was cruising at a slightly faster pace than I normally run with the 929. It only has 6 rounds but I love shooting Steel with the Ruger. For whatever reason I tend to like the Ruger DAs.
  3. @mpmo I've been shooting the Blue Bullet 147 RN out of my CZ75 for years. With such a short o.a.l I'd ream the barrel and run something longer. Gives you flexibility/reliability with whatever bullet you want to shoot. Having dealt with tight chambers and throats in many semi autos and revolvers over the years, reaming is the best option. At first I was hesitant to immediately recut new guns, but that has changed with experience.
  4. Not a chance. Stick to standard pressure 9mm in these cylinders.
  5. Agree, take the side plate off, reduce the hammer tension to almost nothing and watch the internals.
  6. The two biggest issues with pawl fitment on a Ruger DA relate to the same fitment area. The portion of the pawl which rests on the trigger assembly determines the angle of approach to the cylinder and pawl window. If you don't remove enough metal it won't engage and can jam the revolver. If you remove too much it causes slow timing or the inability to close cylinder when the pawl is reset. A S&W is no different, but poor fitment simply causes different side effects. I am a firm believer that pawl/hand fitting is one of the more time consuming steps to execute properly. I
  7. @alecmc @skillzthatlightlyinjure I certainly can, that could be caused by two things. The tip of the pawl that engages the ratchet might be too long (probably not the issue), or the angle of the pawl with the respect to the trigger assembly is too large (probably the issue). I have rebuilt/refit many GP and SRH Rugers, unless you plan to do a lot of pawl work on them I'd send it back to Ruger and have them fix it. They have great CS, and have paid for shipping both ways in my experience. Interestingly enough, whoever fit that pawl did err in the right direction. All they need to do is rem
  8. FedEx or UPS, each require a minimum shipping speed for handguns. Expect to pay $60-75.
  9. Then I'd say start around 10 yards and practice drawing and engaging the target with two hits. When you make two hits, step back a few paces and try again. Keep going until you find your limit. Head back to the 10 yard line and keep going.
  10. One of my new favorite drills is starting at 20-35 yards in a weird position. Draw and engage 1-2 shots on a 10" plate. Move at least 5 yards laterally, post up and reengage plate. Then sprint from berm to berm shooting on the move, jump on berm, engage with 1-2 rounds, wash, rinse, and repeat. It forces one to accurately fire at a reasonably small target with short notice and reload when empty. If executed properly your heart rate will be through the roof and you'll subconsciously reload when empty no matter what position you're in. By the time you get to 10 yards you should have covere
  11. I fire my guns in all kinds of weird positions! Have you ever seen Rob Leatham shoot through a low port? He just bends over and shoots upside down without kneeling.
  12. I take mine out, if you ever need to fire the gun upside down it will engage itself.
  13. I did have a hammer block fail on me once, the rebound slide pin broke and locked up my whole gun. I now remove them on my competition revolvers.
  14. I milled the nub off of mine, but you really took some length off!
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