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About Alaskan454

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    Calls Shots

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  1. Agree, take the side plate off, reduce the hammer tension to almost nothing and watch the internals.
  2. The two biggest issues with pawl fitment on a Ruger DA relate to the same fitment area. The portion of the pawl which rests on the trigger assembly determines the angle of approach to the cylinder and pawl window. If you don't remove enough metal it won't engage and can jam the revolver. If you remove too much it causes slow timing or the inability to close cylinder when the pawl is reset. A S&W is no different, but poor fitment simply causes different side effects. I am a firm believer that pawl/hand fitting is one of the more time consuming steps to execute properly. I've gone so far as to hand file each ratchet in order to make my guns time properly. Not everyone shares the same attention to detail.
  3. @alecmc @skillzthatlightlyinjure I certainly can, that could be caused by two things. The tip of the pawl that engages the ratchet might be too long (probably not the issue), or the angle of the pawl with the respect to the trigger assembly is too large (probably the issue). I have rebuilt/refit many GP and SRH Rugers, unless you plan to do a lot of pawl work on them I'd send it back to Ruger and have them fix it. They have great CS, and have paid for shipping both ways in my experience. Interestingly enough, whoever fit that pawl did err in the right direction. All they need to do is remove a small amount of metal and do repeated function checks until it's good. Tedious, but the right way to do it.
  4. FedEx or UPS, each require a minimum shipping speed for handguns. Expect to pay $60-75.
  5. Then I'd say start around 10 yards and practice drawing and engaging the target with two hits. When you make two hits, step back a few paces and try again. Keep going until you find your limit. Head back to the 10 yard line and keep going.
  6. One of my new favorite drills is starting at 20-35 yards in a weird position. Draw and engage 1-2 shots on a 10" plate. Move at least 5 yards laterally, post up and reengage plate. Then sprint from berm to berm shooting on the move, jump on berm, engage with 1-2 rounds, wash, rinse, and repeat. It forces one to accurately fire at a reasonably small target with short notice and reload when empty. If executed properly your heart rate will be through the roof and you'll subconsciously reload when empty no matter what position you're in. By the time you get to 10 yards you should have covered lots of ground and fired 30+ rounds.
  7. I fire my guns in all kinds of weird positions! Have you ever seen Rob Leatham shoot through a low port? He just bends over and shoots upside down without kneeling.
  8. I take mine out, if you ever need to fire the gun upside down it will engage itself.
  9. I did have a hammer block fail on me once, the rebound slide pin broke and locked up my whole gun. I now remove them on my competition revolvers.
  10. I milled the nub off of mine, but you really took some length off!
  11. Haha, I actually think it's looks fit the bill for a competition gun. I like it.
  12. They are a very high quality shop from what I've heard. Glad they got you straightened out.
  13. Shocked in a good way I am guessing?
  14. 625 with Bowen rear, FO front, 10mm Dave short release. North Mountain holders, one behind week side hip, and TK moons. I also run 230 gr Blue Bullet RN over Trail Boss.
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