okshootist

Minimum headspace is limited by contact between the bearing surface in the center of the extractor and the recoil shield. It shouldn't factor into your calculations and unless it has been improperly modified, shouldn't be a problem. Endshake should be as close to zero as possible while maintaining a free-turning cylinder. I'd recommend you correct the endshake by having the crane stretched. Shims are okay as a temporary fix but are not a good long term solution, especially when you are looking at multiple shims. If your numbers are correct, correcting the endshake is going to result in a large, probably excessive, cylinder gap. .010" is generally considered maximum. That will require that the barrel be set back.

Check for endshake. If that's not it and it has a modified mainspring, you may need to straighten it slightly.

I have had excellent success using 115 gr. 9mm with 1-32 twist barrels in the 1911. (10 shot groups under an inch at 50 yds, Ransom rest, velocity just below the sound barrier) I usually go for heavier bullets in the revolver and haven't searched for the slower twist barrels, but Green Mountain has a 1-20.

I've had some where the hole in the hammer was torn. Make sure you have a clean surface all the way through.

My experience has been that most factory forcing cones are at or very near maximum dimensions. I've found that an oversized forcing cone can be more problematic than one that is imperfect, so I don't recommend recutting the cone without setting the barrel back. But, if you just have to do it, the Manson revolver barrel tool with it's piloted cutters and spring tension provides much more control and a cleaner cut than the one sold by Brownell's.

I am using the holders. Much more secure than a round magnet. I like the ability to change the post angle. Post rotation is not adjustable and they are 22.5 degrees from correct for my technique. May not be a problem for anyone else.

I just use a woodruff cutter to replicate the factory cut for replaceable sights.

Unless you know and can replicate the method of measuring the trigger pull, the number is useless.

The older, stock grips you mention are still available from Altamont and I haven't found anything that I thought was better. The Hogues have a lot of material at the top behind the frame. Might be a problem with your hand size. I've never seen a decent grip that had, what I consider to be, adequate speedloader clearance without modification.

Other than the ones at Brownell's, you are looking at a custom job.

The slow timing is unusual on a recent production gun, even when empty. Every new gun I've worked on in the past couple of years has had fast timing, also a problem but easily corrected. Unless you have an extremely close barrel/cylinder gap all the way around, the cylinder contacting the barrel on two chambers would indicate that the cylinder face is excessively crooked. I'd suggest that you at least call Smith and Wesson.

Power trigger shims can help make the right and left hand timing closer by reducing lateral movement in the trigger. Experiment with which side of the trigger you put the shim(s) on. Too many and the trigger won't return. Trying to get them identical is probably just going to lead to frustration.

Approx. 350 rds.

There's a difference in six-shot neutral and six-shot friendly. I'm primarily a Classic shooter and fall into the "same number of unavoidable reloads" camp. I want the opportunity to place well in the overall but if limited or open shooters are using eight shots to take down six steel and I don't beat them, I consider that my fault. I think the "buy an eight shot" point of view overlooks the fact that not everyone has the hand size to properly shoot an N frame revolver. Hopefully defining the term will resolve this issue.

If you remove the barrels from your autos and drop a re-sized case in, I think you'll find they don't headspace on the case mouth either.