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929's moons backing out


Koppi

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Hey Guys.....We had to ream the chambers on the 625s........Maybe we need to run a reamer in the 9mm chambers.....Something to think about. I will have my hands on a buddy's gun later this month and will try some 160s loaded with TG in it and see how it performs.

Why would we think the 9mm chambers would be any different than the 45 chambers.....same people making them.....something to ponder.

DougC

Doug

You will kill a reamer on the Ti cylinder. Just ask Warren (Tool Guy), he knows.

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Hey Guys.....We had to ream the chambers on the 625s........Maybe we need to run a reamer in the 9mm chambers.....Something to think about. I will have my hands on a buddy's gun later this month and will try some 160s loaded with TG in it and see how it performs.

Why would we think the 9mm chambers would be any different than the 45 chambers.....same people making them.....something to ponder.

DougC

Doug

You will kill a reamer on the Ti cylinder. Just ask Warren (Tool Guy), he knows.

This is what I recall Warren saying as well. The Ti is hard and the coating even harder?

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Hey Guys.....We had to ream the chambers on the 625s........Maybe we need to run a reamer in the 9mm chambers.....Something to think about. I will have my hands on a buddy's gun later this month and will try some 160s loaded with TG in it and see how it performs.

Why would we think the 9mm chambers would be any different than the 45 chambers.....same people making them.....something to ponder.

DougC

Very interested in 160 results.

Mine is still with Dave, probably will get it back in february if history is indicator.

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My Friend Duke, just told me he solved his sticking issue by using a under sizing die. His load is with TG and Berry bullet at a 138 PF with no problem ejecting.

I'll second this - reaming the chambers is an expensive way to fix an ammo issue. There's nothing wrong with the blue kool-aid, but the Dillon sizing die doesn't size as far down to the base as most other sizing dies - the opening is flared more for ease / speed of loading but the downside is what you're seeing.

I don't even run a U-Die, just a standard RCBS carbide sizing die and I've never had a round hang up going in or coming out. Two other guys I shoot with who load on Dillons could not use any brass they'd shot in an auto in their 929 - sorta defeats the purpose to me. I mix all my 9mm brass and never had a hang up.

Those guys are switching to U-Dies and I expect that'll solve that problem.

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The titanium is easy to cut, it's the coating that kills the reamer. The difference between a semi auto chamber and a revolver chamber is (at least should be) the step at the end of the case.

I had Manson make me 2 custom revo reamers, a 40 S&W and a 38 Super. The reason they were custom is that I had them made with a 10 degree transition from the case diameter (case mouth) to the bullet diameter (cylinder throat) rather than a square ledge at the case mouth as it is on an auto. The square corner collects and holds lead, powder residue, and any other kind of dirt. When enough dirt builds up in the sharp corner, the ammo won't go all the way in just by gravity. The 10 degree angle lets it all go out the barrel, then the rounds fall in freely, even with a dirty gun.

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Yep, after you look at enough brass for 9mm you realize that being made to SAAMI spec means absolutely nothing when you are using moon clips. SAAMI spec for the extraction groove is .347 -20 so anything from .327-.347 is within specs. I have some 9mm that snaps in nice and tight in my Hearthco clips and some other brass that was made to the small end of the specification and you can just set the round into the clip and it falls right out. If you want to have a nice consistent fit in your moon clips you still must have brass dedicated to your revolver. This stuff about wanting to use plain old range pickup brass just isn't going to get it unless they only shoot your brands of brass at the range where you pick up brass. ;)

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The greatly anticipated big advantage of the 929 was supposed to be easy ammo compatibility with 9mm semi-autos. Since it appears you can't shoot "just any old ammo" through these things reliably, that advantage seems to have blown away with the wind.

Can anybody tell me something the 929 can do that the 627 can't do just as well, or possibly better?

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The greatly anticipated big advantage of the 929 was supposed to be easy ammo compatibility with 9mm semi-autos. Since it appears you can't shoot "just any old ammo" through these things reliably, that advantage seems to have blown away with the wind.

Can anybody tell me something the 929 can do that the 627 can't do just as well, or possibly better?

Hold people in suspense for pretty much a full year before we were able to figure out it wasn't worth it? It did that pretty well.

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The greatly anticipated big advantage of the 929 was supposed to be easy ammo compatibility with 9mm semi-autos. Since it appears you can't shoot "just any old ammo" through these things reliably, that advantage seems to have blown away with the wind.

Can anybody tell me something the 929 can do that the 627 can't do just as well, or possibly better?

I knew the "I can use my range pickup brass that works in my semi auto" deal was never going to work. It really surprises me that guys who will lay down ridiculous sums of money for gear that gives them a slight edge (real or imagined) won't buy a pile of brass that they can probably use for years.

I would only buy a 929 to get that long barrel and Ti cylinder. Otherwise I'm pretty happy with my short colt loads. Hey, SMITH AND WESSON, please make some guns marked "38 Short Colt" so I can use them in IDPA. Real Short Colt cylinders would be cool for USPSA and ICORE too. I know, I know, it's a crazy dream.

-ld

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The greatly anticipated big advantage of the 929 was supposed to be easy ammo compatibility with 9mm semi-autos. Since it appears you can't shoot "just any old ammo" through these things reliably, that advantage seems to have blown away with the wind.

Can anybody tell me something the 929 can do that the 627 can't do just as well, or possibly better?

I knew the "I can use my range pickup brass that works in my semi auto" deal was never going to work. It really surprises me that guys who will lay down ridiculous sums of money for gear that gives them a slight edge (real or imagined) won't buy a pile of brass that they can probably use for years.

I would only buy a 929 to get that long barrel and Ti cylinder. Otherwise I'm pretty happy with my short colt loads. Hey, SMITH AND WESSON, please make some guns marked "38 Short Colt" so I can use them in IDPA. Real Short Colt cylinders would be cool for USPSA and ICORE too. I know, I know, it's a crazy dream.

Crazy like asking for a 5" 625. Who would want that.

-ld

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  • 2 weeks later...

Toolguy, how do you best remove the coating before reaming? I already have one project that needs to be hit with a finish reamer so that would help justify the cost. Plus a few people I shoot with are getting or have 929's and would probably be interested in this as well and could share the reamer.

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I use sandpaper wrapped around a Delrin or wooden dowel rod with a saw cut slot in the end. Use the cloth backed kind that is 1" wide and comes on a roll. You tear off the length you want like tearing duct tape and wrap it around the end of the dowel, using the saw slot to retain the end. I use 220 grit. Put the dowel in a drill motor and use it like a cylinder hone. I also use a piece of maroon Scotchbrite on a .22 cleaning brush in a short piece of cleaning rod for final polishing. Oftentimes just the Scotchbrite will smooth out a chamber pretty good. You want the sandpaper tho be a close fit and the Scotchbrite to be a tight fit.

This is also a good way to polish chambers that have grooves in the surface of the hole. I try to do the length of the chamber while staying off of the throats. If you get into the throat a little it won't hurt anything. Make sure you go at least as deep as the reamer will be cutting.

This is not the exactly controllable type of process that I prefer when machining something, but is an easy thing to do for most people that don't have high dollar machinery with lots of accessories.

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  • 6 months later...

Any word on the ranch moon clips doing this?

Tk's are stamped for $39/10 or Hearthcos are cut somehow for $75/10 but are much more durable IMO. Ranch products are softer metal and they get bent easier. Revolver supply has an inferior designed hex center hole out. Those things may as well be origami paper. Buy decent moonclips and scare the h311 out of anyone who comes close to stepping on them. I tell my squad if they step on my moonclips their mags are toast...just kidding...or am I? Haven't had any more issues. The .040" thick Hearthcos are tank like, but I'd still baby them as best I could.

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I have run range pickup 9mm brass thru a case-pro using the super plates and it works fine in my super revos. I wonder if a similar treatment would help the 929. BTW I use the same moons in my super as for the 929

I only use Win and FC brass

Edited by NV Guide
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