MWP Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 I believe it does go all the way to the end. I thought about cutting that off too and recessing the crown. You see what Josh did to his? Talk and a haircut! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 I believe it does go all the way to the end. I thought about cutting that off too and recessing the crown. You see what Josh did to his? Talk and a haircut! yeah, he did that to accomdate his reload, pinnacle did a nice job... i want to cut and recrown...more money though. i was hoping that was just a cosmetic extension that could easily be faced off with an end mill and not mess up the crown.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWP Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 Yeah I might have to trim some weight off there myself, we'll see how it transitions when it comes home from apex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 i was hoping that was just a cosmetic extension that could easily be faced off with an end mill and not mess up the crown.. It's easy to re-establish the crown. It's a simple piloted chamfering reamer that can be easily turned by hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 i was hoping that was just a cosmetic extension that could easily be faced off with an end mill and not mess up the crown.. It's easy to re-establish the crown. It's a simple piloted chamfering reamer that can be easily turned by hand. Does it really come out as good as if it was done with a machine though? I did a bit of reading about this awhile back when I was thinking about taking down the bull barrel on my open 627. Everything I read seem to indicate that if you couldn't do it with a lathe it wouldn't be quite as good. I found a rather expensive hand tool, it was like 400 bucks, spring pressure and guaranteed no chatter, but I wasn't quite that committed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 (edited) Whenever I get a new (to me) revo, the first thing I do is recut the crown and forcing cone. This is done with the Brownell's hand tools. Used correctly it turns out as good or better than on a lathe. Few people can set up a stock revo barrel in a lathe to run true enough to make this turn out right. This is a very basic and simple operation. It's about the same level of difficulty as sharpening a pencil. I have found that most factory crowns and forcing cones are off from a little bit to a lot and everything in between. This is a case of "can't hurt, might help". DO NOT spend $400 for a crown tool. That is a case of someone taking advantage of those who don't know yet. Edited August 1, 2014 by Toolguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 Whenever I get a new (to me) revo, the first thing I do is recut the crown and forcing cone. This is done with the Brownell's hand tools. Used correctly it turns out as good or better than on a lathe. Few people can set up a stock revo barrel in a lathe to run true enough to make this turn out right. This is a very basic and simple operation. It's about the same level of difficulty as sharpening a pencil. I have found that most factory crowns and forcing cones are off from a little bit to a lot and everything in between. This is a case of "can't hurt, might help". DO NOT spend $400 for a crown tool. That is a case of someone taking advantage of those who don't know yet. hrm. it looked simple and i am fairly mechanical, i just get a little nervous contemplating my first time putting a cutter to a revolver be on a new one i just spent 1200 on... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 Whenever I get a new (to me) revo, the first thing I do is recut the crown and forcing cone. This is done with the Brownell's hand tools. Used correctly it turns out as good or better than on a lathe. Few people can set up a stock revo barrel in a lathe to run true enough to make this turn out right. This is a very basic and simple operation. It's about the same level of difficulty as sharpening a pencil. I have found that most factory crowns and forcing cones are off from a little bit to a lot and everything in between. This is a case of "can't hurt, might help". DO NOT spend $400 for a crown tool. That is a case of someone taking advantage of those who don't know yet. And no, I wouldn't spend 400 on the tool, not a chance. To be fair, it was a complete kit for lots of calibers with a spring,loaded system to allow constant pressure, marketed to gunsmiths. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 So you have a blank muzzle cap and you want to remove it and re-crown? Why? The cap will protect your existing crown from damage. You can damage your crown with a cleaning rod or even a holster with a plug that goes into your barrel. If you have a device that prevents this damage why would you remove it and alter the gun? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 Does it really come out as good as if it was done with a machine though? Oh, hell yes! Maybe better, because your crown is being cut to perfectly match the bore opening, rather than the exterior of the barrel body. I can't imagine any reason to hassle around with a lathe. If there is an experienced revolversmith who crowns barrels with anything other than hand-turned tools, I would be extremely surprised. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuart1 Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 Except for IDPA I'm unfamiliar with gun competitions. In which can you shoot an 8-shot 6.5" 9mm? Thanks, Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 Except for IDPA I'm unfamiliar with gun competitions. In which can you shoot an 8-shot 6.5" 9mm? Thanks, DennisUSPSA, ICORE, steel challenge, NRA action pistol, about anything besides IDPA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelie Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 How are the barrels arranged on the 929s? Is it a tensioned liner inside an outer shroud with muzzle nut, or is it a one piece barrel screwed tight to the frame? I like most things about these guns but the long barrel. I'll definitely want to cut mine shorter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWP Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 It's just like the other current stainless production guns, one piece screwed into the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R1valdez Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 (edited) Any news to when more 929s will be available ? Edited August 19, 2014 by R1valdez Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 I got mine last week and have chance to shoot it a little off bags cause arm is aching. It is getting shipped off to gunsmith for the treatment shortly but fealt like I needed to shoot it at least a little. As reported, brass will probably matter at least somewhat. I have some AMER-MC brass, exactly none will extract after firing. Any brass that has a glock buldge will feed, but after it fires will stop the gun completely, have to whack it open with heel of hand and then tap extractor with something other than hand to get it out. I had WIN ,fc, and Starline brass all exhibit this behavior. Your experience may be better. I had posted in another thread, your brass source will matter when it comes to sizing. I happen to be working through a large batch of brass that has alot that have been shot at major. These are obvious in that even though they case gauge they will *not* drop into the charge holes in the cylinder. If you have a bunch that has only been shot minor you will likely be totally fine. WIN, WCC, FC, Speer and Starline all clip about the same on the factory clip, nothing great about any of it. Clips are on order from Dave. PMC and RP headstamp can almost be shaken out of the clip, very loose... This gun has zero chamfer, or literally has the smallest part of the 90 broken off the edge. Extractor has a bunch of burrs on it. It is accurate, loosely bagged up at 20 yards shooting a 1.5" group was doable with a typical production load, 147g xtreme bullet, 3.3 of titegroup. I do want to see what the 160 bayous does with a little clays behind it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 Sean, you plan on giving starline brass a chance? What about an undersized die? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 Sean, you plan on giving starline brass a chance? What about an undersized die? We'll see what clips up best in Dave's clips. I specifically want to avoid using Starline because of cost, unless I have a couple hundred special for using at majors or whatever. Speer, Win, and Federal are all basically the same in the factory clip, but Speer definitely primes nicer than the others even with the 1050. I found a source of single headstamp brass, speer or win, so its very likely that is the direction I will go. The 1050 is setup for long colt right now, I need to load all my LC brass, then switch it back to 9mm and will give the U die a try. Doug has me worried I am going to be working harder with it though, but if it works I will try a redding as he suggested, and if all is good then that will be the path. If it happens that the load that shoots acceptably in this gun is the same as the wifes production load, all the better, but if not, the press will be setup with the redding seater die, so adjusting depth is simple and just swap powder hopper if needed... Time will tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Sean, I hate to say it, but with your tendonitis.....I wouldn't be running a reloader, or most definitely be running brass through a U die.......seriously. DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Sean, I hate to say it, but with your tendonitis.....I wouldn't be running a reloader, or most definitely be running brass through a U die.......seriously. DougC I hear you man, like you I haven't moved the handle on the press in two months... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Sean, I hate to say it, but with your tendonitis.....I wouldn't be running a reloader, or most definitely be running brass through a U die.......seriously. DougC I hear you man, like you I haven't moved the handle on the press in two months... Sounds like a good excuse for an auto drive sean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWP Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 That's what I was thinking, auto drive! Then you guys will really convince me I need a 1050. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Sean, I hate to say it, but with your tendonitis.....I wouldn't be running a reloader, or most definitely be running brass through a U die.......seriously. DougC I hear you man, like you I haven't moved the handle on the press in two months... Sounds like a good excuse for an auto drive sean hah, well again, deferring to Mr. Carden (the reloading Oracle), auto drives demand excellent brass quality...otherwise you are going to have a bad time. My goal is to handle stuff as little as possible, I just want to dump crap in hoppers and run the lever... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Freeman Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 That's what I was thinking, auto drive! Then you guys will really convince me I need a 1050. Get the 1050 first... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 I am no Oracle. I probably have made more mistakes than most and like to share that so you don't have to..... DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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