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home brewed gun oil


sheepdog566

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I've been following a similar thread on ARFcom where a guy is using RotellaT.

No cleaning for more than 1000 rounds, he then cleaned and the carbon normally hardened and caked to the bolt tail comes off easily with a fingernail.

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"SFL" NLGI #0 grease

Purchased it, used it and.....FAIL. Barrels, slides and action parts started showing wear marks that were not previously there. Might be great for a bolt in a rifle, ain't worth a damn in an auto pistol. Live and learn. Back to Mobile One, Slide Glide and CLP Break Free for me.

Edited by bowenbuilt
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Shell Rotella T - full synth - 5W40

Why rotella ???? I get the synthetic part, and really use Mobil synth lubes( and astroglide) but was wondering what rotella has that Donax or other shell products don't... For educational purposes, am curious.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 of course it ate my spelling.

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  • 2 months later...

"SFL" NLGI #0 grease

Purchased it, used it and.....FAIL. Barrels, slides and action parts started showing wear marks that were not previously there. Might be great for a bolt in a rifle, ain't worth a damn in an auto pistol. Live and learn. Back to Mobile One, Slide Glide and CLP Break Free for me.

Thanks for the feedback. Was going to buy a can of this.

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I use bacon grease. It smokes a little, but it works fine and smells great. :D

I'm going to have to give this a try... Maybe it will slow down the guy shooting after me while he tries to figure out who's making bacon..?

Makes everyone hungry. Then they load up on hot dogs and chips and want a nap. :D

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I use bacon grease. It smokes a little, but it works fine and smells great. :D

I'm going to have to give this a try... Maybe it will slow down the guy shooting after me while he tries to figure out who's making bacon..?

Makes everyone hungry. Then they load up on hot dogs and chips and want a nap. :D

I'll take any edge I can get.

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  • 1 month later...

so motor oil blend is the serious go-to. i started reading some of these realizing it was a joke and couldnt seem to figure out the whole thing was a joke or not.

Edited by Shmella
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  • 1 month later...

I have just started using a mix of 5w-30 synthetic motor oil and clear, food grade, Teflon grease. It seems to fit the bill for me, it doesn't dry out and fling off like normal oil and it isn't as thick a grease by itself. I have taken my pistol apart after matches and it looks as wet as when I applied it. Just mix it to your desired consistency and your good to go.

Edited by nmbpman
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I'm gonna give away one of my secrets here....

After finishing a new build, I wipe everything down with WD-40 then sprinkle the rails with a fair coat of powdered graphite. The firing pin tunnel gets just graphite with the spring in the tunnel. I work it all in a little and go to the range. After 200 rounds it gets completely stripped thoroughly cleaned. The lockwork is then packed full of a combination of white lithium grease and powdered graphite and the rails are given a heavy coat of 70-90 gear lube and again a heavy coat of graphite. After another 200 rounds It gets stripped and cleaned again.

After that you can use whatever lube you want. Even Rem Oil. But from there, when you lube the slide rails, do it with the gun assembled and just put a couple drops on the back of each rail with the gun pointed down. Let the oil work its way down for a minute or so and you're good to go. Sprinkle the rail with a light coat of graphite every 1000 rounds and you will have the slickest action you ever saw.

The graphite embeds itself in the metal and does 2 things: It polishes the contacting surfaces and acts as a dry lubricant. After the treatment, oil tends to bead up on the rails like water on fresh wax.

BTW: During the treatment stage the gun will get a little messy with oil and grease working out of it. Keep a rag handy, wipe it down and keep firing. :)

Edited by Dranoel
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  • 2 weeks later...

Mobil One for light oil and Chain Saw bar oil for where the lube needs to stay. When I clean the gun after 1000 rounds the chain saw bar oil is still on the barrel, the link and the slide. Works good. Same quart can has lasted 10 years now.

Edited by t0066jh
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I think, if the truth be known, that many "gun oils and greases" are just something that we would recognize if it came with the normal brand name. I can't think of a single one that has it's own refinery.

Lucas gun oil is probably the only one with its own refinery, and it's really Lucas 50wt two stroke oil. Almost all the old school speciality gun oils are two stroke oil.

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Out of curiosity, why two stroke oils vs four stroke oils ???

2 stroke is lighter and has a lower ash content since it is intended to burn off with the fuel. In a firearm, there is no real benefit to such.

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