Steel/aluminum thread locker

[kneelingatlas]

I need to permanently lock a male threaded piece of steel to a female threaded piece of aluminum, any ideas? this is on the inside of a comp, so I worry red Loctite would get too hot and break down. I've got some two part metal epoxy I'm thinking is the ticket, but I wanted to see if anyone here has a better idea?

[RePete]

Look at this.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epxy_weld_t/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Weld-Bonding-Compound.htm

or JB Weld.

[GrumpyOne]

http://m.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/0/15/t_lkr_red/Loctite-Threadlocker-Red-271

The red should work....Do you think the comp is gonna get to 500 degrees?

Edited September 19, 2013 by GrumpyOne

[GrumpyOne]

http://www.supergluecorp.com/pacer-industrial/anaerobic-adhesives

[GrumpyOne]

Really though, I think that you're gonna be outta luck for a permanent lock. With heat involved, the metals being dissimilar, they are gonna expand and contract at different rates.

[kneelingatlas]

Really though, I think that you're gonna be outta luck for a permanent lock. With heat involved, the metals being dissimilar, they are gonna expand and contract at different rates.

That's true. You make a good case for red Loctite (plus I already have it); what the hell, I'll give it a shot.

[GrumpyOne]

Barring locking compound, drill, tap, loctite a set screw to hold in place.

[toothandnail]

My new , (well a year almost 2 ,old now) motorcycle has the FRAME GLUED together. Chromoly to cast Aluiminum

[Toolguy]

Loctite 620.

[donnyglock]

You can go with the green loctite. Its stronger than the red thread locker.

[Whitefish]

Loctite makes a preparatory liquid (available from Brownells and several other places) to clean and prep the threads prior to application of whatever grade of Loctite you choose. That should help the ultimate bond, but the prep liquid does reduce the set time to just a few minutes so you will have less time to get everything set properly. Red should work just fine for most comp applications. That is what my gunsmith uses - watched him do it. If you are concerned about temperature, use the high temp Red (272) rather than the garden variety Red (271). Its breakdown temperature is about 200 degrees higher (500 degrees) than the 300 degrees for 271.

[itchy]

I've had the unfortunate luck of having both green and red loctite fail on an aluminum comp. I've seen it happen to multiple people, even with the green. I'm now thinking that it might possibly be that the aluminum expands at a lower temp than the steel, causing glue failure. If someone knows the real scientific reason why, I'd be interested to hear.

Seiichi

[GrumpyOne]

Steel and aluminum expand and contract at different rates and at different temps. I'm sure that when the AL expands or contracts before the steel does, anything twixt the 2 will eventually shatter/fail.

[dlfleetw]

Rocset maybe?

HOT Brazing is also an option.

A 430 degree F swing is less than .001 For a 1 inch part for either AL or Steel.

Edited September 20, 2013 by dlfleetw

[Toolguy]

Brazing only works on steel to steel, not steel to aluminum.

[dlfleetw]

Brazing only works on steel to steel, not steel to aluminum.

There are a few fluxed solders (mainly pastes) that will bond Al to Steel. Its a hard joint but can be done.

[johnsons1480]

I was going to suggest Rocksett as well, temperature resistance up to 2,015 degrees F.

[kneelingatlas]

I did it this morning with red Loctite, so I'll report back on how it worked.

[Glk21C]

Try shoe goo

[dlfleetw]

I did it this morning with red Loctite, so I'll report back on how it worked.

Do you need to be an to disassemble it?

RockSett is used for suppressor muzzle devices which get extremely hot (like melt the baffles hot in some cases) and survive.

[kmca]

I've had the unfortunate luck of having both green and red loctite fail on an aluminum comp. I've seen it happen to multiple people, even with the green. I'm now thinking that it might possibly be that the aluminum expands at a lower temp than the steel, causing glue failure. If someone knows the real scientific reason why, I'd be interested to hear.

Seiichi

I have trouble keeping my dot mount secured to a stainless steel frame, using stainless steel screws, so I looked it up on the Loctite website. They say that the locking properties of their formulas needs iron ions for a bond, some stainless steels don't have enough iron.

[Powder Finger]

I've had the unfortunate luck of having both green and red loctite fail on an aluminum comp. I've seen it happen to multiple people, even with the green. I'm now thinking that it might possibly be that the aluminum expands at a lower temp than the steel, causing glue failure. If someone knows the real scientific reason why, I'd be interested to hear.

Seiichi

I have trouble keeping my dot mount secured to a stainless steel frame, using stainless steel screws, so I looked it up on the Loctite website. They say that the locking properties of their formulas needs iron ions for a bond, some stainless steels don't have enough iron.

ain't the round thingys in your avatar iron ions?

[Toolguy]

They have primers with the correct "ions" in them for different Loctites. One that I use has copper in it.

[toothguy]

They have primers with the correct "ions" in them for different Loctites. One that I use has copper in it.

Surface Prep Activator for Anaerobics. It's an anaerobic adhesive that has copper particles in it because copper is highly reactive. Made by Permatex, I bought a 4.5 oz can at an automotive supply store. It's pricey and shortens assembly time to about 20 seconds.

[EkuJustice]

Never had a problem either of the loctite colors. For a comp I would go with the red. The key is proper degreasing of the surfaces prior to aligning. A lot of the problems I see with loctite are people not prepping the parts correctly.