Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Home built CNC Mill - Gonna make a 1911


StraightUp_OG

Recommended Posts

Sorry for being a bit off topic, but you guys seem to be on the ball, so I have a question for you. I want to internally lighted a slide for a 9mm 1911, and am trying to find the right tool for the job. I would like to match the internal radius of the slide and remove material forward of the locking lugs down to just before the barrel bushing. I was thinking of mounting the slide vertically and going in from the muzzle end to do it. I don't want to spend a fortune or have a custom tool made up, so I'm wondering if anyone knows a good way to do this.

Jediwarrior had posted a setup to open up a slide for a sleeved barrel that had the slide vertical with a boring bar. That may be one way to do accomplish that task. anyone know how the old Gold Cups were done?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 2.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

A ball mill will only work if I enter from the bottom, and then I can only cut up to the reverse plug. Not really what I want. A boring bar could work, but I don't want a sharp corner on the cuts. Maybe an insert type boring bar and a cutter with a radius on it will do the trick. I'll look around and see what I can find. Thanks for the suggestions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A ball mill will only work if I enter from the bottom, and then I can only cut up to the reverse plug. Not really what I want. A boring bar could work, but I don't want a sharp corner on the cuts. Maybe an insert type boring bar and a cutter with a radius on it will do the trick. I'll look around and see what I can find. Thanks for the suggestions.

A key seat cutter with a long shank could work for the bulk of the work, then finish the top of the cut with a dovetail cutter to break the corner.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like the one in the link has a reduced shank for part of it, but not enough for what I want to do. Keyway cutter is what I originally thought, or something similar with a radius on the cutter, but I haven't seen any with a long enough shaft. A boring bar should work if I can find the right insert.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I hope I can soon contribute to this thread. I just started working on my advanced manufacturing technology degree at the local community college and just fished with my first semester where we modeled a Lego in Solidworks then 3d printed them. This has led me to download fusion 360 and play around with the CAD side of things and hopefully will be adding CAM in the near future. Little things at a time though, I am in the process of designing a 100 round chamber checker.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hope I can soon contribute to this thread. I just started working on my advanced manufacturing technology degree at the local community college and just fished with my first semester where we modeled a Lego in Solidworks then 3d printed them. This has led me to download fusion 360 and play around with the CAD side of things and hopefully will be adding CAM in the near future. Little things at a time though, I am in the process of designing a 100 round chamber checker.

Edited by crazygiant
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Similar story here: I just moved and finally have a garage big enough for some real tools. I was going to start with a lathe and even had a contractor out to quote running 220V power, but then I found a deal on an older Brdigeport running a Mitsubishi VFD on 110V. Now I just have to figure out how to get the thing here and hooked up. Having never purchased a mill before I'm curious how you guys get it installed and leveled. I'm assuming you don't all own forklifts. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Similar story here: I just moved and finally have a garage big enough for some real tools. I was going to start with a lathe and even had a contractor out to quote running 220V power, but then I found a deal on an older Brdigeport running a Mitsubishi VFD on 110V. Now I just have to figure out how to get the thing here and hooked up. Having never purchased a mill before I'm curious how you guys get it installed and leveled. I'm assuming you don't all own forklifts. :)

I've moved several. Moved to garage on roll-back style wrecker. They tilt the roll-back and it slides onto floor. Once on floor, place several pieces of pipe underneath and you can push it (or use a crow bar to pry it if its stubborn) to wherever it needs to be.. As the back piece of pipe comes out, just place it back in front. Once you have it where you want it, use a machinist's level to level it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Brian - What make/model is it? Did you pick it up or have it delivered? I'd imagine shipping a mill is expensive!

What is your plan? Manual gcode? Sneaker net a floppy? Can you hook up Mach3/LinuxCNC directory or does it require gutting the electronics that control the servos?

Looks like a cool project!

Edited by blind bat
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bridgeport r2e4. It has a Boss 9 controller. I skimmed the manual last night, cutting edge 1983 technology! I lucked out, it was just 2 hours south of me. Went and picked it up myself. So far the plan is to use the Centroid/Ajax controller in a retrofit. They have a plant about 50 miles from me. I went and talked to them a few months back. I hope someone here can comment. It has conversational programming and an Ethernet connection. (Centroid not BP) I think this is going to be a little more intense than building my 3d printer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bridgeport r2e4. It has a Boss 9 controller. I skimmed the manual last night, cutting edge 1983 technology! I lucked out, it was just 2 hours south of me. Went and picked it up myself. So far the plan is to use the Centroid/Ajax controller in a retrofit. They have a plant about 50 miles from me. I went and talked to them a few months back. I hope someone here can comment. It has conversational programming and an Ethernet connection. (Centroid not BP) I think this is going to be a little more intense than building my 3d printer.

Congrats that's pretty cool!!!!!! Interested to see how it goes swapping controls.

What's the benefit to the controller you're looking at versus a PC based one?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...