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Home built CNC Mill - Gonna make a 1911


StraightUp_OG

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I spent about 15 minutes in OnShape refining my silencer endcap and endcap tool... I am really digging OnShape...

I was also pleasantly surprised when I updated MeshCAM to find that it does a much better job at 2.5d designs than it did when I first bought it... I think my G-code hand-coding days are over unless I need to optimize something for a big run of parts.

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Edited by Griz
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I spent about 15 minutes in OnShape refining my silencer endcap and endcap tool... I am really digging OnShape...

I was also pleasantly surprised when I updated MeshCAM to find that it does a much better job at 2.5d designs than it did when I first bought it... I think my G-code hand-coding days are over unless I need to optimize something for a big run of parts.

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That's awesome!

Did MeshCam come out with V6? I've been using F360 lately, but MeshCamV5 was really good to me.

I'm still not sure if I'll pony up the monthly fee for F360 when the trial ends. Love the CAM, the CAD not so much.

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Still on V5, but he's done some of work on waterline and pencil cleanup that is turning out great 2.5d results for me now.

Very cool, thanks. I'll have to check if there's an update. MeshCam is the best for the dollar no doubt. V6 has been in beta for a while, be interesting to see it when it goes wide.

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Here's my version of the X2 stiffener plate. I bolted the mill to a steel plate and then have a pice of angle on the back of the mill that I can jack, pull and twist to tram the column dead nuts on. Before this mod, the column used to "nod" forward with no way to adjust it. It also adds a lot of rigidity.

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Ya mines is "the same, but totally different" my is about 12" tall and bolts to the column and the base. In the base area I also have jacks to push out against the plate to correct the vertical on the column and to equalize tension and compression. My other tramming jacks on the Narrow of the column are 1" aluminum angle. They aren't rigid at all but I just use the to position the column and then lock all the bolts (like 7 of them) on the back of the column and base. I don't know that either system is better or worse but it points out the fun in making stuff is that there are so many ways to do it!

Has anyone done the air shock/spring conversion? Does the shock go in the column? I want to fill the column with steel and epoxy for adds weight and reduce vibrations but I'm not sure if the spring works with my plan. I'm also getting some vibration in my bench so I think I'm gonna cast anchor bolts in a concrete block to mount the mill to.. My theory is the adding a concrete block roughly a 2'x2'x 8" or 12" will add a lot of mass and dampen more vibration.

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Has anyone done the air shock/spring conversion? Does the shock go in the column? I want to fill the column with steel and epoxy for adds weight and reduce vibrations but I'm not sure if the spring works with my plan. I'm also getting some vibration in my bench so I think I'm gonna cast anchor bolts in a concrete block to mount the mill to.. My theory is the adding a concrete block roughly a 2'x2'x 8" or 12" will add a lot of mass and dampen more vibration.

I installed the air shock when I first got the X2. It goes inside the column. I removed it when I converted to CNC since it caused my Z axis to lose steps unless I slowed my rapids way down.

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So mill is bolted to floor and still waiting for my belt drive kit. One thing I do not like already is the mill still moves when running and turning the hand wheels it's shakes slightly or wiggles. These bases need an update to be more rigde. Thinking it needs some way to hold the top of the column stiff but dunno how to approach it really. I go the pro tram mini to tram the head. Have not gotten to use it yet but looking forward to my 1911 building experience. Now again I gotta find a good easy way to make a flood coolant system.

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a bucket and a sump pump, that's all a flood coolant system really is. I guess the real hard part is the sheet metal and deciding how to filter it.... I'll see if I can dig up some images I gathered before buying my mill

Edited by amish_rabbi
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So mill is bolted to floor and still waiting for my belt drive kit. One thing I do not like already is the mill still moves when running and turning the hand wheels it's shakes slightly or wiggles. These bases need an update to be more rigde. Thinking it needs some way to hold the top of the column stiff but dunno how to approach it really. I go the pro tram mini to tram the head. Have not gotten to use it yet but looking forward to my 1911 building experience. Now again I gotta find a good easy way to make a flood coolant system.

is the table wiggling or the column itself? If its the table, adjust your gibs. Adjusting them is somewhat of an art and an ongoing thing, I've found with my mill.

if it's the column, it sounds like you don't have the nut tight enough. I don't have any play in mine until it is approaching it's max chip load (which isn't much in relative mill terms) Also, google x2 mill upgrades, diy x2 etc and you'll see lots of options on how to add stiffening plates to the column which help a ton.

I'm also likely going to fill the column with lead and epoxy to add as much mass to the system as I can which should help reduce chatter that's not related to the head itself. This is the primary reason I haven't done the lift shock upgrade yet though I'd really like the extra Z travel it gives you.

Bottom line, it shouldn't be wiggling very easily so you may want to double check everything one more time and see if you can identify where it is coming from

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Nots it's wiggling from the flimsy base the machine is sent to be used with. The machine itself is very solid feeling

I keep my lead in the base. Lots of 230gr rn.

Add some weight down there and give it a try.

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Well, I didn't get very far.

My mill kept throwing up phantom limit switch errors, which ... well, I don't know quite what causes it. I'd guess EMI, except that I've got perfect grounds, shielded cables and ferrite cores on everything. It might be coming off the VFD - I seem to get the errors more when I'm really hogging out a lot of material.

My buddy had/has phantom limit switch problems we finally determined the vibrations were setting them off. Could be something to check out I don't what type of switch you are using his are a regular micro switch. He's planning on going to an optical switch to fix it.

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Since I dont want to make a new thread for this question... anyone know how much extra length threading adds to a barrel? 0.5"

I have a Barsto commander 45 barrel that is threaded for a suppressor (building a buddy a top end) and it is .434 and I have a 38 Super Schuemann that is threaded for a comp and it is .457

Edited by StraightUp_OG
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Since I dont want to make a new thread for this question... anyone know how much extra length threading adds to a barrel? 0.5"

I have a Barsto commander 45 barrel that is threaded for a suppressor (building a buddy a top end) and it is .434 and I have a 38 Super Schuemann that is threaded for a comp and it is .457

perfect thanks. That means I dont need to order anything other than a threaded barrel to make a 5.4" barreled sight tracker ish gun

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Just wanted to make a comment about Fusion360 since this is where I found out about it.

I made a part that had 30 holes with two diameters. 24 holes @.201 for threading to 1/4-20 and 6 holes @.250 for some pins. I bored them all with a .125 end mill.

At first I used the 2D drop down to bore all the holes. But I screwed up selecting the geometry on a couple of the threaded holes. I mistakenly clicked on the outside .250 thread instead of the inside .201 portion. And it was kind of a pita to individually click on each hole. So I ended up milling 5 of the .201 holes out to .250.

Turns out that the "drill" drop down in the CAM section has a lot of options available in it. Bore milling and threadmilling being two of them. But the supercool part is the "select same diameter" box that can be checked. So if I do this again I'll just select bore milling and MAKE SURE i've got the first selection correct, click the same diameter box and boom. Do another op with the same tool for the second diameter.

You get the "select same diameter" option when using thread milling under the drill drop down as well. Made it super easy.

Don't know why that "same diameter" button isn't available anywhere else in the CAM options. Glad I found it.

Threadmilling is the coolest thing ever btw. The tool isn't cheap but I hope I never have to turn a tap handle again!! F360 makes it super easy to program, under drill or 2D there's a threadmill option. Turn it on and walk away. My little machine cut the threads in 24 holes in about 35 minutes. Would have taken me longer than that by hand. Awesome.

http://www.maritool.com/product_info.php?products_id=16216

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