JonSnow

One piece of advice for modifying the 10/22s: skip the BX trigger and just buy a Volquartsen hammer. I've put them in 3 guns now and it's the best bang for your buck. You can get them solo or with the auto-release bolt stop (which is great but also easy to modify your own). A buddy recently built a gun with the BX trigger and after comparing it to mine with stock trigger and Volquartsen hammer he immediately dumped the BX.

As someone who has high cheek bones, I can tell you not to worry too much about what other people are doing. Every shooter's face is different; the critical dimension here is the height of your eye from the bottom of your cheek-bone. I personally have to have high cheek-pieces and low rings on all my rifles. The one place where operator error can get in the way and make things more difficult is head tilt. If you're tipping your head forward (looking through the very top of your shooting glasses) you're shortening that critical dimension. For kneeling and higher positions, try to make a conscious effort to put the butt higher in your shoulder pocket; that will get your head more upright. For prone, try extending your bipod legs a click or two higher, which will also get your head more upright.

I have a charge-master and I like it. It's not perfect; with some powders you'll watch it creep up to the weight and then blow right past it. Also, the trickle feature is too fast to be very useful. When I'm loading with those powders I set a target weight ~0.5gr under what I want and use a real trickler to top it off. It can also be a pain if you switch powders a lot; it's hard to get ALL the old powder out and sooner or later you will forget to close the drain before you dump the new stuff in and it'll end up all over your bench (I've done that twice). Aside from those issues it really speeds up the loading process without compromising accuracy. I'd recommend one if you're not switching powder too often.

Freestyle is a big part of USPSA. Being told I have to shoot targets in a certain order rather than what works best for me makes it seem less like USPSA and more like IDPA. ?

I've tried a handful of speed loaders for 10/22 mags and haven't found a single one that works reliably. If someone started making one they'd definitely have my money.

Try support@mdttac.com

Honestly that's probably true but it's still different from all my other rifles. I'm not convinced that MIL is so much better than MOA that it's worth having a different system than the rifles I shoot more often. It would be one thing if PRS was the only scoped rifle shooting I do, but it's not.

I have a Burris XTR-II with the Horus reticle on my RPR and I like it. Glass is very nice compared to the Athlon on my rimfire gun (although I'm not sure it's "twice the price" nice). The only issue I'm having with it is that it's taking me longer to get used to MILs than I expected. I have a LOT more experience dialing in MOA and, despite using metric at work, still think of distances in inches and yards. One click being .36" at 100 yards makes the mental math a little uglier. If I were doing it over I might opt for a scope with MOA adjustments/reticle.

I have the LSS-22 chassis on my trainer rifle (and soon to be NRL22 rifle) and I like it. I do wish it was a few inches longer but that shouldn't be an issue with their centerfire chassis. Also, they lend themselves to a longer LOP which I like but it's something to be aware of.

Even if your buddy is going to mill the racker, have him cut it a little oversize and finish it with a file. As schaet said, go slow with the file and you'll do just fine.

I shoot a Marvel on a 1911 frame; one of the mags has intermittent issues but the other 4 all run great. As others have said, I did it because I typically shoot way more USPSA than steel challenge and I wanted a consistent grip feel. My Mark III is the gun I've owned the longest but now the grip angle just feels weird to me.

An FF2 was the first optic I had on my speedy 10/22. I liked it a lot but found the dot was a little dim in full daylight. Switched to a Sig Romeo 4S just to be different; I liked the brightness but didn't like how high it was. I recently switched to a cmore in a 90 degree mount to try to get the best of both worlds. I like the way it feels but haven;t had a chance to shoot it in a match yet. I definitely think 6-8 MOA is the sweet spot for dot size.

For turning on a lathe, what do people aim for in terms of clearance over the groove diameter?

I put an Athlon Argos that I bought off the forum here on my trainer. It's MIL/MIL, FFP like my XTR, focuses down to 10 or 15 yards and is way cheaper. Different reticle unfortunately but I wasn't interested in spending that kind of money on a trainer.

I don't have a Tikka but I do have an RPR in 6.5 CM with the same barrel length. I went with the JP recoil eliminator; the research I'd done said that it doesn't cut recoil as much as the little or fat bastards but eliminates more muzzle rise. I wasn't too worried about the recoil of 6.5 and I wanted to be able to spot my own hits. Compared to the original factory break, it was a slight improvement in recoil and a big improvement in muzzle rise; the rifle recoils straight back now and I can see impacts even at <100 yards. It's LOUD though, I double up on ear pro when I shoot at my local range which has walls between each bench.

Clue to what; that isn't not the same quality as a $3k+ custom rifle? I don't expect it to be. To answer the OP's question, I think the RPR in 6.5 is a good rifle at a good price if you're looking for something that is functional with lots of ability to customize/upgrade.

I have 1 in 6.5CM and I'm very happy; <1MOA @ 100 with Hornady match ammo, hoping for better with handloads. The handguard is slightly off-center but doesn't flex; I sling it up pretty tight and don;t see any movement. FYI, I put an XTR II on it and had to use high rings to keep it from hitting the handguard. Two buddies have them as well. One has a 6.5CM so that he likes a lot. The other has a 308 that's had issues not grouping well.

Hello, I'm a little confused about your 1911 mag releases. I have a Posi-lock for my 2011 and want the same functionality in my single stack gun. I see them available on other retailer's websites but not yours. Does a single-stack Posi-lock actually exist or are the other guys mislabeling standard mag releases? If it does exist, why isn't it available on your site?

Lee, good to know; I'll definitely check out 6.5 guys. I should have clarified though, the match closest to me has 2 divisions, a prone division and an obstacle division. It was recommended that I start in prone so I can focus on learning wind calls, dope, etc before adding the complications of unstable positions. I was also thinking of shooting an F-class match or two, also for practice wind calling. Can I pretty much count on supported improvised positions? I was planning on practicing traditional kneeling and sitting positions with a sling but if I'm never gonna see those in a match I can focus on other stuff.

I finally got my RPR all set up and I'm sighting it in Saturday. My goal is to start shooting PRS style matches. I have a lot of experience shooting offhand but almost none shooting prone. Anyone have a good website/video/wrote-up on building a stable prone position for shooting off a bipod?

Personally, I've had good luck with just replacing the hammer with a Volquartsen. That dropped the trigger pull to ~2.5 lbs and made it a lot more crisp. You can certainly spend a lot more money for even better results but the hammer is a really good bang for your buck.

I have the G0791 and I like it. That said, there are definite limitations. Having to pull the compound slide off to put a mill vise on means that you'll spend a lot of time setting up for any precision work on either machine. Also, the cross slide will actually run into the mill head column, which limits your y-axis when milling to <5" in certain configurations. Also, there are interlocks that prevent you from running both heads at once, and all the power feeds are run off the lathe head, so you have no power feed when milling. The best way to think about the machine is a good lathe with an okay milling attachment. I'm very happy with mine but if I were to do it all over I'd spend the extra money and floor space for separate machines. If you're strapped for both; it's a decent compromise.

http://www.4-dproducts.commight be what kylelee is talking about but I don't think they have comp dies. I bought an adjustable one off amazon although I haven't tried it yet.

This might not help but I gave up trying to get the front sight out of my TRP. I called SA customer service about it; they sent me a pre-paid shipping label, I shipped them the slide and they returned it with the front sight in a bag all at no cost. Took about 1.5 weeks total.

If you want to try tackling it yourself, 4D Reamer Rentals might be a good option.