jwilson007 Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 Hi guys, I am stil in the initial stages of getting into reloading and looking for a bit of guidance. I have been doing a good bit of research so I will be somewhat knowledgable before actually reloading. I see other posts asking "what powder for X" and I also see a wide array of responses and that's for just one caliber. I'm wondering if it will be feasible to narrow down at least pistol powders down to just 1-2 for the calibers I will be reloading which will likely include 9mm for sure, 38/357, and 45. I'm sure I'll need a seperate powder for 223 or other rifle calibers and that's fine. Just wondering if I have to stock many different powders for various calibers or what the best course of action would be. How many different powders do you guys keep on hand typically? I hear Clays seems to be useful for a variety of pistol calibers, was thinking about starting with that and maybe one more for my first reloads and see what works best for me. If you have any other advice please let me know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 I've used WW231 for years for 9mm and .45 - not sure how it is for .38. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Youngeyes Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 +1 on the 231. It also works well for 38spl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superdude Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 Powder selection will depend on what type of performance level you will be loading for the pistol rounds. Wimpy, moderate, high power. A medium burn rate powder would be the most versatile for the pistol rounds. It can work for light loads and provide pretty good results for the 357, though probably not the highest velocity. If you're seeking low recoil, then a faster burning powder would be better since it will require less for the same velocity and less charge weight means less recoil. As noted, 231 is a very good powder that is versatile for the calibers listed, though it will fall short for high performance 357. But 231 is one of the most common generic powders that will fill many roles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwilson007 Posted January 22, 2013 Author Share Posted January 22, 2013 Great thanks for the info! Least it sounds like I won't have to have a ton of different powders! I don't mind buying smaller quantities at first and try a few different powders out though before buying in bulk. But WW231 will be on my short list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirpy Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 I use 231 also but Unique is a good powder also. That is how/why it got its name. Buy a couple good reloading manuals and check online info also. Stay Safe, Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 (edited) A definite NO for Clays. While its a good powder, and a lot can be done with it, for a newb, it's not a great choice. For a good, cheap, safe powder that you can load everything you list except the rifle, look into Alliant Power Pistol. Edited January 23, 2013 by GrumpyOne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinj308 Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Titegroup will work in all those calibers, and .40 too. Clays is great for .45 and I love it in my .38spl. You can definitely have just a couple of powders for all those calibers. Let's include .40 just because it's so popular, you might find yourself looking into it soon. Maybe you'll load some ammo for a buddy. For me in those calibers it's Clays in .45 and .38spl, and Titegroup in .40. I use WSF in my 9mm, but Titegroup is almost as good out of my gun. Be very careful and go very slow. Caution is the operative word. And welcome to the wonderful world of reloading. There's a TON of good info here in the reloading section. Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poppa Bear Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 When you look at powders also look at the charge weights listed in the books paying attention to anything with an asterisk because that usually denotes a compressed load. Stay away from those. Otherwise look at the range listed. Some have a small window to work with, others give you a big range. Look at the starting velocity for each load. If you want something that makes major PF it is best to start with a powder that gets you close to start with rather than one that barely makes major at the max level. That said the softest shooting powders will be the ones like Clays that barely make major at the max charge, while the harshest to shoot are the ones like Longshot that make major with the minimum charge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MARKAVELI Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 PowerPistol for 380's, 9mm, 38spl, 357mag,.40cal, 44mag & 45Acp. rifle H335 4 to 8 Lbs each... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobS761 Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 I started out with the "generic" type powders. Then after a few hundred rounds, and much asking and research, here in the caliber specific reloading forum as well as reloading manuals, started to develop a load to suit my needs. It's still a work in progress, and since I shoot Production, learned that my pistol works better with a lighter recoil spring with minor PF loads. There is extremely good information here, but cross reference everything with a published manual. A typo by someone concerning OAL can lead to big problems. I'll be quick to add I've seen that sort of thing fixed pretty quickly, though. As a final thought, make sure while reading in the forum, the load data your about to steal is being used in a similar way you wish to use it. For instance, a .40 loaded long to make major in an open gun isn't suitable for my XDm. Ask, ant you will learn! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwilson007 Posted January 23, 2013 Author Share Posted January 23, 2013 Even more good info! Being a newbie and clueless about competition stuff, I have no idea what Major/Minor power factor even is, but I will keep this in mind if I ever cross that bridge! Initially I will be mostly loading for practice shooting, but I do want to look into the competition thing more this year. At least I have several good options for general pistol powders to go with and work up some loads and test them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superdude Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Even more good info! Being a newbie and clueless about competition stuff, I have no idea what Major/Minor power factor even is, but I will keep this in mind if I ever cross that bridge! Initially I will be mostly loading for practice shooting, but I do want to look into the competition thing more this year. At least I have several good options for general pistol powders to go with and work up some loads and test them out. http://38super.net/Pages/Major.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toothguy Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Even more good info! Being a newbie and clueless about competition stuff, I have no idea what Major/Minor power factor even is, but I will keep this in mind if I ever cross that bridge! Initially I will be mostly loading for practice shooting, but I do want to look into the competition thing more this year. At least I have several good options for general pistol powders to go with and work up some loads and test them out. It's not that Clays is a bad powder it's that it is a very fast powder. A little goes a long way and it is not as forgiving when you are new to loading. Power Pistol, as GrumpyOne suggests, is a slow powder it takes much more powder to give the same velocity to the bullet. If you accidentally double charge the case it will most likely spill out the top of the case. You can work up a load more safely because the pressure curve is not as steep. 231/HP38 is a good starting powder. It's in the middle between Clays and Power Pistol. There are no good and bad powders. Each powder is designed for a specific application. Make sure what you want to do with the load falls into the application range of the specific powder. Get a chronograph it's a must have. Work up the load from the bottom and even if your press will auto index, check each case for powder. Put a light on your press so you can look down into the case before you put the bullet on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poppa Bear Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Even more good info! Being a newbie and clueless about competition stuff, I have no idea what Major/Minor power factor even is, but I will keep this in mind if I ever cross that bridge! Initially I will be mostly loading for practice shooting, but I do want to look into the competition thing more this year. At least I have several good options for general pistol powders to go with and work up some loads and test them out. Power factor is a measure of bullet weight times velocity. A 165 grain bullet at 1,000 fps is 165 PF. A 200 grain bullet at 1,000 fps is 200 PF. USPSA and IDPA have power factor requirements at different levels. USPSA has minor at 125 PF and major at 165 PF so in order to be scored at the major PF level your loads need to push the bullets out faster than what is needed to make minor. A powder like Clays requires a small charge close to its max limit to make major. It is easy to double charge a case which is why we do not recommend it for new reloaders. PP will fill the case up with one charge so double charging a case is next to impossible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwilson007 Posted January 23, 2013 Author Share Posted January 23, 2013 Thanks Poppa Bear (and others) for that simple breakdown! Makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryShoots Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 +1 for power pistol. -1200 for Clays major pressure spikes are not a good mix with new loaders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwilson007 Posted January 23, 2013 Author Share Posted January 23, 2013 Noted, I will not be learning with Clays. You guys are most helpful! I have been reading the "ABC's of Reloading" and starting to look over some manuals to get a grasp on these concepts before I start. I bought 2 reloading books/manuals several years ago, now I can't find them haha. Oh well guess it's time for a new volume anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 I bought 2 reloading books several years ago, now I can't find them . guess it's time for a new volume anyway Bought my volume in 1964 If you need any info re: blackpowder and dinosaur bullets, let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob HESS Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 I use Autocomp for 9mm, .40 and .45. works really well with no issues after thousands of bullets loaded.The biggest challenge was getting good load information for the various bullets. Haven't tried it in .38/.357 but will be soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 I use Autocomp for 9mm works really well with no issues Rob, I'd be interested in how many grains WAC you use, which bullet type/weight and OAL. Have you tried any faster powders in 9mm? Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjpaulin Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 New to this whole thing as well. Working with a good local dealer that sells reloading stuff only. They also do reloading of their own for sale. They gave me their personal preferences, which this all may come down to anyway. Pistol: Accurate No.2 or No. 5 seem to be a good all aroung choices that will work fine for your 9mm, .38/.357 and 45APC. I plan to load the same rounds. WIN 231, Hodgdon Tite Group and HP-38 also suggested . Rifle: .223, Accurate 2230 or 2520. Also RamShot TAC, Hodgdon Varget, H335 other suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poppa Bear Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 Another thing to look at when you get ready to choose a powder is how it interacts with your bullet of choice. Some powders like Titegroup do not mix well with Moly coated or lead bullets. It works great for jacketed bullets. So ask before you start loading a bunch up and we will tell you if it works with your bullet of choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuentesd99 Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 I use W231 for 9 minor, 40 minor and 40 Major. I also use AutoComp for my Open 40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salemsm Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 Bless you all for this Topic! I too am starting to accumulate the supplies needed for reloading and freaked out when I couldn't find anything! The first powder I found I could buy was Clays. Thanks to the advice from you all, I'm trying to cancel my order! I do have on backorder, Federal Small Pistol Primer (1K of regular for .38 spl and 1K of Magnum for .357 mag) plus 2K worth of BERRY'S CAST BULLETS 38CAL 158GR SWC. Any thoughts on Powder selection for .38 spl/.357 mag with the above specs for a brand newbie to reloading? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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