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About superdude

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    St. Louis, MO
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    Brad Miller

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  1. You might find the article below of interest. It shows that some semi-auto guns can have a squib with a bullet stuck in the barrel, will still cycle the gun and chamber another round. https://americanhandgunner.com/handguns/the-extreme-danger-of-squibs/
  2. https://www.ssusa.org/articles/2018/6/27/handloading-shell-shock-technologies-nas3-cases/
  3. The first thing to make clear is that not all standard deviation measurements will be the same even if you use the same ammo in separate strings. Repeat the test and you'll get different SDs. I've seen SDs be over 3 times larger/smaller when using the same ammo but recorded in different strings. For this reason, you're chasing your tail in this comparison. If you're not happy with your SDs (and they are normal), try a different powder. I dug around and found some old 45 data with 185 grain grain bullets, and True Blue produced single SDs (in 3 of 3 15-shot strings).
  4. Your standard deviations (SDs) are typical if those are the results you get. Some powders have wide SDs, some powders have narrow SDs. You could try a different powder. True Blue is known to produce narrow SDs, though I have not tried it in the 45. Other folks might have other recommendations.
  5. No trimming required. Many semi-auto cartridges shorten with use. Calipers are good enough for handloading - something accurate to .001 is plenty good for this purpose.
  6. Some folks speak of an 'accuracy node' where the best accuracy is attained at some place between the start load and max load. I don't know how rigorously this has been examined. Looking at my 9mm and 38 Super data (all based on Ransom Rest testing), it's not clear that I could support that claim, but there are bazillions of bullet/powder combinations to try, so who knows. Here are some examples. In the 9mm, many people report that certain 115 grain bullets show the best accuracy when pushed fast, as in at or near the max charge weight of a given powder. Specifically, 115 grain Hornady JHP bullets (HAP or XTP) and Power Pistol powder. My results tend to agree with that. Those bullets (and Zero's 115 JHP-conical) with a full charge of powder make small groups with my Kart barrel. But that does not mean all barrels/guns will like that load. My Kart barrel also likes those bullets (tested mostly with the Zero bullets) with several different charge weights of Silhouette, and with different overall lengths. Again, lots of powders and charge weights and overall lengths to test. And testing is expensive! They don't give bullets away! Or powder, primers, etc. As another example, my 38 Super Kart barrel loves VV N105, and it shoots lots of different bullets with a wide range of power levels into small groups. In this case, it's not very picky about charge weight or velocity. It doesn't shoot all bullet equally well, but it likes many different bullets equally well. So, there is no general rule that applies here, other than my 38 Super barrel loves N105. You get to define the criteria to determine where you stop. It could be accuracy, recoil, power level (velocity), all or any of those and whatever else you might have in mind.
  7. A chronograph is only necessary if you want to know velocity. That information is useful to competitors for calculating power factor. It won't tell you anything about accuracy. The target does that. It's hard to define optical velocity, because we have to ask; optimal for what? Power factor? Yes, there is a velocity range we shoot for. Accuracy? No. That said, some bullets, like wadcutter bullets are supposed to work best within a certain velocity range, or at least the folks at the Bullseye website make this claim (though there are other factors like barrel twist rate). The velocity is what your gun happens to produce with a particular bullet to make the smallest groups, and in reality, the velocity doesn't matter because the only data you need to make small groups is the details of the bullet, powder and charge weight, overall length, brass, primer - the mechanical stuff. The velocity is a byproduct, that it, it doesn't go into the formula for accuracy. Velocity just happens to be the byproduct of all the other details. It doesn't predict accuracy like the other components do - at least not for general handgun use. Some people have claimed that smaller standard deviations in velocity produce smaller groups. But that doesn't appear to be the case for the typical handgun at typical handgun velocities. https://americanhandgunner.com/handguns/exclusive-consistent-velocity-accuracy/ A chronograph is marginally useful for assessing pressure, and probably only useful if the speeds are excessively high to give you a warning that something is amiss. But your best measure of pressure is following the data in a load manual and working your way up to the desired level of performance you want without exceeding published data. The published data is almost always based on actual lab tested pressure under controlled conditions. Of course, the exception at this forum is 9 Major. We often push charge weights way above published maximums and into the unknown, but that's a different issue. I have no experience with the Labradar, but I have chronographed about 25,000+ rounds with plain old Shooting Chrony chronographs, which run around $100. I have no major complaints. They can be fussy sometimes, but all chronographs can be that way.
  8. It's impossible to keep track of where all these powders are on burn rate charts, and different charts rank many of them in different places. I always take my own advice and look at actual load data (from multiple sources) for charge weights and velocities - cause I can't keep track of them either!
  9. The lube is just used for the sizing phase. No other steps require it. Some people use it with carbide dies, some don't (I don't). It does make the sizing easier = less force required.
  10. You can determine exactly why they don't fit your chamber by using the method described at this link: https://www.shootingtimes.com/editorial/reloading-tips-the-plunk-test/99389 Once you've determined why they don't fit, you can make whatever changes necessary to make them work. Use your barrel's chamber. A case gauge is only useful if it is the exact same size as your chamber.
  11. Yes, both of their in-house 124 JHPs. They shot well in my 38 Super but I have only tried them in the Super with N105 (N105 shoots almost everything well in my Kart barrel), but they put 25 rounds under 2" at 25 yards - just like all the FMJ MatchWinners.
  12. The 115 and 125 HAP bullets are excellent. The 125 HAP is probably the most consistently accurate bullet I've fired in my guns (Kart barrels). Another bullet that produces excellent accuracy is the Zero, 115 JHP-conical. http://www.rozedist.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RZD&Product_Code=R135-A&Category_Code=ZBJ-9MM I've not found a good load for the 147 JHP Zero bullet in my Kart barrels. However, other people have. Different guns = different results.
  13. Here's how you pick the most accurate load: The one that produces the smallest group. Nothing else matters. Ignore load density. Ignore velocity extreme spread. Ignore . . . everything, except group size. And be sure to include a reasonable number of shots in your test group. 5-shot groups are not very useful. Here's an article that tries to explain some of the issues with group round count: https://www.ssusa.org/articles/2019/9/25/accuracy-testing-shortcomings-of-the-five-shot-group/ Not all bullets are equally accurate. Not all powder produce the same accuracy. Not all guns/barrels produce the same accuracy. One load that gun "A" likes, gun "B" might not. It takes testing to find what a gun likes. Example: https://www.shootingillustrated.com/articles/2019/3/23/ammo-accuracy-15-loads-in-three-different-guns/ That said, there are some bullets and powders that tend to produce good accuracy in many guns. I've found good accuracy with the following 9mm 147 grain bullets: Hornady XTP, Remington FMJ, RMR FMJ FP Match Winner. For budget jacketed bullets that shoot really well (in my 9mm and 38 Super Kart barrels), consider RMR's FMJ truncated cone (flat point) MatchWinner bullets. They come in a variety of weights, 115, 124, 135, 147. https://www.rmrbullets.com/product-category/bullets/pistol/9mm-355/
  14. There is a lot of misinformation here. People are trying to give you a heads-up on how powders tend to work with respect to speed and recoil. That’s good, and their input is appreciated. That said, some of what has been posted does not fit actual real-world data. Let’s look at the facts. 1. CFE does not produce slower muzzle velocities than other powders in the 9mm. If you look at published data, CFE produces some of the highest speeds. In the example the OP posted, CFE provides the second faster velocity with the 147 grain bullet. Hornady’s manual also shows CFE producing some of the highest speeds for which they used it. 2. Published data by some companies is right up to the maximum limit, without going over. For example, Western Powders data. And see Guy Neill's posts at this link: 3. If you buy a 147 grain Gold Dot like MemphisMechanic suggests, stay with CFE. It will push the bullet faster (980 fps) than Power Pistol (975 fps) or WSF (931 fps), according to Speer’s data. https://www.speer-ammo.com/downloads/speer/reloading-pdfs/Handgun/9mm_caliber_355-366_dia/9mm_Luger__147_rev1.pdf 4. Recoil force is calculated with 3 values; bullet weight, bullet speed, gunpowder weight. You can use the calculator at the following link to check it yourself; http://kwk.us/recoil.html Powder weight adds to the recoil force because it is part of the ejecta that comes out of the end of the barrel. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Recoil#Including_the_ejected_gas All else being equal, a powder that requires more weight to push the same bullet to the same speed will produce more recoil force. That is demonstrated here: https://www.shootingtimes.com/editorial/measure-relative-handgun-recoil/99442 5. Bullet weight and recoil: heavier bullets will have slightly less recoil than lighter bullets if the are pushed to the same POWER FACTOR (PF). That is demonstrated here: https://www.shootingtimes.com/editorial/power-factor-recoil-bullet-weight-gives-edge/99399 That’s great information for competitors to know for the lightest recoil since they often load their ammo around PF requirements. However, factory ammo usually doesn’t load the different bullet weights to the same PF. Here’s a quick look at 9mm ammo. The recoil is also shown, but the powder weight has not been included since they might not use the same type of powder for different loads, and that can make a big difference in recoil (recoil for a 2.5 lb gun). 115 grain at 1180 fps, 136 PF, 2.34 ft lbs recoil. 124 grain at 1150 fps, 143 PF, 2.58 ft lbs recoil. 147 grain at 1000 fps, 147 PF, 2.74 ft lbs recoil. In this example, the 147 bullet produces more recoil force. 6. Burn rate charts are useful, but they don’t always agree. One should consult several burn rate charts before deciding on a rank. Rank also doesn’t necessarily tell you how they will react in all cartridges, so don’t depend on them very much. Always consult a loading manual(s), and base your decision for the performance you desire on actual published data. Often, several powders will give you the performance you like. 7. CFE is a fine powder for your needs and is a good all-around powder. If you’re not happy with it, then you can try a different powder (but try a pound of CFE first).
  15. First, determine exactly where they don't fit the gauge and chamber. Use a magic marker for the task, described here: https://www.shootingtimes.com/editorial/reloading-tips-the-plunk-test/99389 Then you'll know what needs to be addressed to fix the problem. Also, your barrel's chamber is the preferred 'gauge' for this task.
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