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salemsm

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Everything posted by salemsm

  1. Thanks to all for additional info. Obviously, not having sufficient powder is just as bad (if not worse!) than too much. Based on your replies, I will pump up the volume to 3.5 grams of TrailBoss and try it from there. Update on particulars: Currently only using these rounds for target practice. I have 2, .357 handguns: 8" Colt Trooper MKIII 6 1/2" S&W 27 Classic
  2. I recently purchased a Dillon RL550B and just finished making my first load of 38 special rounds. When comparing them to store-bought rounds, there was hardly any kick from my 357 and I heard a mere pop instead of the normal bang. Particulars: Per advice from this forum, I purchased Hodgdon Trail Boss Powder and created my rounds using CCI #500 Small Pistol Primers and a 158 GR bullet. Per the Hodgdon Reloading Chart, the range of Trail Boss for a 158 GR 38 Special Bullet is between 2.7 and 4.2 gr. I used a conservative 2.8 gr. to start with. When using a bullet puller, I did not notice any difference in taking apart a store-bought vs. a bullet that I made so I believe I have the crimping die set correctly. Is this issue a result of being too conservative with the powder load? Any thoughts from the veterans out there would be most welcome.
  3. Newbie Reloader who just did my 1st 200 reloader round in my new Dillon 550B. (A wonderful machine, by the way.) My question: Is it ok to keep the remaining powder in the reloader tube or should I store it back in the powder container? I live in the humid climate of Northern Virginia and would like the advise of the reloading greybeards on this.
  4. Whilst I’m waiting for my Dillon 550B press to arrive, I downloaded the Instruction Manual and started reading. On the troubleshooting page, I came across this quote concerning “Erratic powder bar operation”: Extruded pencil type powders will not flow smoothly through smaller sized powder funnels because of their length. My first powder choice was Winchester 231 for 38 sp/357 mag loads which is (according to Lyman) a Double base, ball powder. What are everyone’s experiences with ball/pencil/flake type powders in regards to Dillon machines. What’s good and what should be avoided?
  5. Per the 550 Instruction Manual: Use 30 weight motor oil on the main shaft and bearing grease on the pivot pins. Periodically wipe the primer slide with rubbing alcohol. This removes the spent primer residue that causes the slide to drag. Clean your powder bar about every 500 rounds. Some powders build up and will eventually stick the powder bar. Paint thinner, acetone or lacquer thinner works well to remove any buildup Other than cleaning the powder bar, the manual doesn’t say how often to clean the primer slide or greasing the main shaft/pivot pins. When do current owners of the 550 perform periodic maintenance? Are there any other PM tasks to perform to keep your Dillon in tip-top shape?
  6. Some of my newbie questions that hopefully the learned reloading community can help me with. Are some spent primers "cleaner" than others? What is the vote on de-prime first then clean? Does media get stuck? Saw a U-Tube video of a guy using a screwdriver to clean. Comments? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lMpiYtjo7pM%22%5dwww.youtube.com/watch?v=lMpiYtjo7pM What about primer pocket cleaners (hand-held Lee, wire brush drill “bit”)? How good do they work and how long do they last? I am hoping I can eliminate some steps and clean spent/de-primed cases but want to get everyone’s thoughts on this first.
  7. Saw this on http://inlinefabrica...tml#LED_systems I'd like to hear from the Dillon 550/650 community if they are happy with any of the lights bought here in general and the "Ceiling Light" and "Skylight" in particular. 1. Does it work? 2. How long have you been using it? Thanks!
  8. "To be sure of hitting the target, shoot first and call whatever you hit the target." Youngeyes: Love your signature line! Are you the author?
  9. I like your priorities! I'm a CA escapee and am pleasantly suprized at how good some of the NoVA wines are!! Currently only planning on reloading .38 spl/.357 mag for my wheel guns until I save enough $$'s to purchase one of 'em new fangled semi-auto shootin irons...
  10. I am new to reloading and did quite a bit of research on trying to find a powder with a good load range for .38 spl. I have a backorder of a 4lb jug of Winchester 231. With that said and the long wait times for powders, what are everyone's advice on using 231 for .357 loads? What are my best options?
  11. Thanks for the response, H-P Jack. I would like to pick your brain on a low-cost option on a Chrono. Currently I only have 2 handguns, 6" barrel S&W 27 and a 8" barrel Colt Trooper MKIII, both .357 mags. What would a good Chrono choice be? Currently I am only shooting in an indoor range. Are Chrono's normally permitted? Sorry if I sound dense but I am a big-time greenhorn on all of this. Thanks in advance for all of your patience...
  12. After several months of deliberation, I decided to take the plunge and order a Dillon 550B from Brian. From all of the good press I have heard about him, I decided I'd rather get the order "right" rather than maybe getting it faster by ordering directly from Dillon. Given the craziness with shortages of everything from powder/bullets/primers to (of course) Dillon supplies, I will try to be patient. I'll just pass the time being a sponge and soak up as much info as I can. Sure beats watching the clock/calendar!
  13. For a newbie reloader like myself, what’s not to like about Cabela’s $75 Model 400 Starter Tumbler Kit ? From reading the 334+ reviews, 280 folks give it 5 out of 5 stars and 43 give it 4 out of 5. That ain't bad satisfaction! One question: After you separate your clean, shiny brass from the media, do you do anything else to it prior to reloading? Looks a bit dusty so do you run a final water rinse then leave to dry?
  14. I am a Reloading Newbie trying to accumulate my Reloading stash in the midst of shortages everywhere. On backorder, I have 2K of BERRY'S CAST BULLETS 38CAL 158GR SWC (for both .357 mag/.38 spl) 1K of Federal Magnum Small Pistol Primers (for .357 mag) 1K of Federal Small Pistol Primers (for .38 spl) In searching the wastelands of the internet to find Power, I found some that I could actually order ... and it's called Clays from Hodgdon. In doing some research, I found out that this is one of the faster burn-rate powders on the market and therefore not forgiving to the reloading newcomer. Do you all agree? I have heard that for newbies, better to start with slower burn stuff like 231, No. 5 or Power Pistol. Of my 2 .357 handguns, I have a 6" barrel S&W Model 27-9. The other is a 8" barrel 1980 Colt Trooper MKIII. So many variables (barrel length, bullet weight, caliber, powder), methinks I will start out with light loads for .38 spl and work my way up. Then start light on .357 mag. Would like to get a general purpose powder that I can use for both and that I can find but if need be, I'll settle for getting powder for .38 spl and continue looking for .357 powder. I have also heard that some bullet/powder/caliber combinations work better than others. I will (hopefully!) have the bullet (158GR SWC) and the primers (.38 spl/.357 mag) soon. What would be recommendations from the folks that have reloaded before for mid/slow burning powder for a newbie? Bottom line: As a beginner, is it better to start out with a slower-burning powder as this will take more grains to achieve the same "omph". More powder means smaller chance to double-fill and therefore more forgiving to a newbie?
  15. Thanks for all of the responses! 1st thing I bought prior to any bullet/primer purchase was Lyman's 49th addition. Obviously it doesn't have all bullet/power combos but I'm assuming that the powder companies have more in-depth data? Bottom line: As a beginner, it is better to start out with a slower-burning powder as this will take more grains to achieve the same "omph". More powder means smaller chance to double-fill. Am I looking at this correctly?
  16. First off, I am a Reloading Newbie trying to accumulate my Reloading stash in the midst of shortages everywhere. On backorder, I have 2K of BERRY'S CAST BULLETS 38CAL 158GR SWC (for both .357 mag/.38 spl) 1K of Federal Magnum Small Pistol Primers (for .357 mag) 1K of Federal Small Pistol Primers (for .38 spl) In searching the wastelands of the internet to find Power, I found some that I could actually order ... and it's called Clays from Hodgdon. In doing some research, I found out that this is one of the faster burn-rate powders on the market and therefore not forgiving to the reloading newcomer. I have heard that for newbies, better to start with 231, No. 5 or Power Pistol. I have also heard that some bullet/powder/caliber combinations work better than others. I've got the bullet (158GR SWC) and the caliber (.38 spl/.357 mag). What would be recommendations for mid/slow burning powder for a newbie?
  17. +1 Chrono is a must, such a great piece of technology. They answer a lot of questions Please excuse this newbie's ignorance... What is a "chrono"?
  18. Bless you all for this Topic! I too am starting to accumulate the supplies needed for reloading and freaked out when I couldn't find anything! The first powder I found I could buy was Clays. Thanks to the advice from you all, I'm trying to cancel my order! I do have on backorder, Federal Small Pistol Primer (1K of regular for .38 spl and 1K of Magnum for .357 mag) plus 2K worth of BERRY'S CAST BULLETS 38CAL 158GR SWC. Any thoughts on Powder selection for .38 spl/.357 mag with the above specs for a brand newbie to reloading?
  19. Which is better at cleaning brass and which last longer? Let the debate begin!
  20. This makes the most sense of anything that I've heard or read. Thanks for the tip! Now I just need to find the magic website that has all of the reloading supplies that I need. Everybody is out of everything!!!
  21. I have been reviewing some U-Tube Reloading videos and many of them indicate you have to get the belling of the case “just right”. Only one video that I have seen (by johniac7078) indicated to measure your case after it went through the sizing die (his example was a 40 S&W, diameter: .419). His “correct” bell size would be to increase the diameter by .002”. Does this sound reasonable to everyone? If not, how do you measure “just right”?
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