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Best "inexpensive" for 3 gun


Shadow1

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I've been watching 3 gun online for a while and getting ready to jump in. My problem is I have no rifle. Is there a good competition competition rilfe that could also be used for hunting or home defense? I'm just trying to spend money once but the primary use would be for 3 gun. I notice that the gun of choice is an AR, would another option such as an M1A be a waste for competition? Trying to keep it under $1500, prefer closer to $1000 but that would take the M1A out of the choice list.

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After some matches and serious consideration, be careful about using a competition trigger on a "defense" gun. A lightweight trigger that allows clean shots in a competition environment could be unsuitable (at best) or considered by a judge or jurors as a dangerous liability (at worst). I use AR Gold triggers on competition lower receiver assemblies and would NEVER use them in a defense or hunting gun. OK, my worry session is over.....back to your question.

Assuming you are getting a rifle that is not a master of any one thing, you need to think about distances for likely competition as well as your intended ranges for hunting engagements or defense. For pure play defense, I'd do a 14.5" barrel or go the Short Barreled Rifle (10.5" to 11.5" probably) route since I have an NFA trust. A more general rifle barrel length might be 16". I am becoming a fan of that length, with mid-length gas system. in my matches this season. I recommend you decide which of the three uses will be more important in your decision making process.

M1A for competition would be relevant to Heavy metal division. That would mean a .45 pistol and a 12 ga pump gun in many match rule sets. Fun to shoot, but expensive on ammo.

I hope this is partially helpful and stimulates more thought and discussion.

--Mike

Edited by michael1778
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You might consider building somehting around a Wilson barrel which people have been saying very good things about, especially for the $$$. The 18" is a very popular length and a 16" barrel is worth a look.

I do like Palmetto lowers, they are selling a LOT of them becaues it is a very well made lower and also a very good price. PSA has had blem's on sale for $65, not sure if they still are.

Michael has a point, but I would carry my comp ar into the field in a heart beat. A friend has a 338 with a 1# trigger. It is a specific hunting rifle. My AR has a 3.5# trigger, and I would not consider it less safe than his 338. There have been quite a few people who are reporting doubling with comp triggers. However the recoil is so low, that usually both rounds end up being quite close together. If I were to shoot something I really wouldn't feel too bad if it got hit with 2 well placed shots. I don't hear any of these people reporting AD's, which is another matter completely.

As far as home d, ") if I ever have to let loose with an ar, it's not going to be one round anyway! And in that kind of situation I'm not sure one would even notice a double.

Tar

Edited by Sleepswithdogs
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One problem I see with using a 3gn rifle in hunting is the comp is really loud. Easy enough to change it out for a flash hider though.

The other issue is legality not all states allow 223 for hunting.

I would take any 3gn rifle as a do all gun. We have to shoot targets from 1 to 500 yards with them and they have to be reliable what more do you need? Colt, DPMS, Stag, and many smaller builders can set you up will a rifle that won't leave you wanting for more.

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Scot, the multi-gun matches in Central Florida, that I've seen so far,

are usually less than 100 yards - and 3-G matches out to only 300

yards (I'm sure there are exceptions).

If your matches are close ranged, IMHO you can get by with an AR

and scope for under $1,000 and be competitive.

I just bought a S & W MP AR and promptly put a cheap (sub $100)

scope on it - going to try it out Saturday - I think it will work pretty

well at 60 yards, I HOPE. :cheers:

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M1a awesome for heavy irons, but expensive to feed. If you are lookin for an entry level gun, there are a number of options under $1000.

I would suggest buying a 20" flat-top upper. I like a govt profile barrel. Attaching a rear appearture sight, pairing it with a lower receiver. Install a decent trigger and NM front post.

There is not a match out there you cannot shoot with this setup, in limited/irons div. and not feel too under gunned.

Later, if you want to get a ff hand guard, optic, fancy but stock, comp, low pro gas block, light bolt , whatever....all the essentials are there in your current platform to build upon.

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I would just build one or have one built. 18 inch DPMS barrel from midway, any upper or lower that you like the rollmark on PSA has some deals on blemished ones and anderson has some good deals as well, decent trigger, freefloat hand guard(these can be had under 100), Fixed A2 stock and a titan comp. For an optic the pepr mount and either the milett DMS or the burris tac 30 in 1x4 are not budget killers.

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I think your best bet is to part one out. I have a $200 lower with uBR stock, $300 JP barrel, $400 trijicon 1x4, $40 mount, and $50 FFT with a $100 trigger. It took forever to find those deals, but it runs like you wouldn't believe and cost $1100 with a $900 scope ;-)

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Majority of the matches in the SE are 300 yds or less. Most clubs are 100 yds or less. I wouldnt drop alot of coin on a rifle before you see if you really like the sport and decide if you want to shoot big matches or stay local. I would get a basic rifle with a good barrel and trigger. You can be competitve and add to it as you progress.

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Whatever you do, do not skimp on the barrel and the BCG. Most of your mechanical accuracy is in the barrel and most of your reliability is in the BCG. Accessories can always be upgraded.

I started 3G with a saiga 5.45 with a 3x9 scope shooting out to 500 yards. Use what you have to start out, but when you build a rifle specifically for 3G, don't cut corners where it counts (reliability/ accuracy). The only thing you should be cutting corners on is ergonomics

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Thanks gang, I wish I could say I have the know how to build a rifle but I really don't. I'ma handgun guy, been shooting USPSA for a while and love it. How many rounds can I expect to get out of a competiton rifle before having to do repairs and replace parts? I currently shoot a production pistol SA XDm 5.25. What classification would that work in in 3G? I've been looking at the Stag 3G, looks pretty good for the money out of the box.

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Thanks gang, I wish I could say I have the know how to build a rifle but I really don't. I'ma handgun guy, been shooting USPSA for a while and love it. How many rounds can I expect to get out of a competiton rifle before having to do repairs and replace parts? I currently shoot a production pistol SA XDm 5.25. What classification would that work in in 3G? I've been looking at the Stag 3G, looks pretty good for the money out of the box.

An AR isn't hard to build, but does require a few specialty tools, like torque wrench, action blocks for holding things while you work on them. Not really a big deal. The AR platform is modular so it's quite easy to put things together. The hard part can be finding the parts you want without running into a backorder. Once you start building them it's actually a little addictive and you can find yourself looking for an excuse to put another one together. :)

That AR that Pat Kelly and MarkCO are talking about is a very nice rifle and ready out of the box, for a real good price too.

Tar

Edited by Sleepswithdogs
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That one on the classifieds is a great price. Building a rifle is pretty simple as your not really building it like you would say a 1911 you are assembling it as the parts dont need fitting. Big thing to watch is support the ears when instaling the rear trigger guard pin and buy a 1/4 inch clevis pin to aid in installing the detent for the front takedown pin. Whole gun is easily assembled in an Hr or so. Its like an erector set for adults

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Repairs depends on the parts you get. Something like a DPMS bcg will wear out faster than a bcm bcg for insrance. On the barrel, Stainless will wear out faster than chrome lined CMV will wear out faster than hammer forged chrome lined CMV will wear out faster than melonited CMV. We're talking about 10k rounds to 20k to 25k to 35k or so.

Extractor springs should be replaced around 3k, extractor around 5-10k, etc.

Just keep a round count on the rifle and try to change things out on time to prevent failures, or run it until you experience problems and see what is overdue for replacement so you'll know what the problem is

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I agree with most of the stuff above, just letting you know that cheap doesn't always mean bad-- I built my son a Del-ton kit for around $600, and put a Millet 1-4 on it and dang if it doesn't shoot about 1 1/2" groups at 100yds. I know that isn't the best out there, but I thought it was pretty darn good for the price. If you start with something like that, you can upgrade it with a better barrel, stock etc, as your time and budget allow.

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