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What upgrades for a an M&P


Loki999

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Hi all,

My shootingbuddy bought an M&P 9 mm the 4,25 version.

What are the most common upgrades? He has to stay production legal.

And from wich website can i order them?

I told him that the fist thing he should do is change the recoilspring. the triggers are supose to be around the minimum triggerpull for productionclass.

Regards Patrick

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As spearogun said, all of the APEX goodies for the trigger and then a fiber-optic front sight and whatever flavor rear you like.

A lot of people like the Warren or Dawson sights. While I like to have an adjustable rear sight, the Dawson "sets" are nice because of their warranty on them.

"If you purchase a set of Perfect Impact® sights directly from Dawson Precision (DP front and DP rear only), we guarantee that your pistol will zero. If it does not, we will give you a new front sight at the proper height free of charge so that it will. If we do not currently offer the height you need, we will make one for you as long as the requested width is already available for your pistol model."

Edit to add:

Other than sights and a trigger, for reliability reasons, I would not play with the springs unless you have to and have the time to tinker with them to make it reliable. Personally, I would rather have to raise my power factor to make it reliable than to have to tinker with springs... but that is just me.

Edited by Classic_jon
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I have the same gun only in 40 and I added the Apex competition AEK and the Dawson black rear and FO front. Got eveything from Dawson and they were very helpful when I asked what front sight I should use. Listen to them they know thier stuff. Thanks Dawson Guys :cheers:

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There is no minimum trigger pull in production USPSA class. Also I would shoot 500 or a 1000 rounds through it and see what bugs me. Maybe nothing? I do like a good trigger and sights. I would put a fiber on the front and see what kind of trigger I had after a few hundred rounds.

Edited by horseman
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Definitely replace the sites. I've got a Dawson front and a Warren rear on my 9L.

A lot of people also replace the recoil spring with something lighter, and with it, they replace the guide rod too. I run an 11# spring on mine, but that light of a spring doesn't work on all guns.

Trigger is personal preference, but the Apex drop in parts are great and pretty reasonably priced too.

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As others have mentioned, a trigger job and new sights are good additions for most. On the M&P, a 13lb recoil spring is typically usable, but you still run the risk of not going into battery or popping out of battery. In my opinion, on this pistol, I agree that it is best to tune your load to the stock spring.

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Get the Apex trigger. Unbelievable improvement. Experiment with a lighter recoil spring (depending on your load). I use a 11lb spring. And definitely change the front sight to a Dawson Precision .10 wide FO. Do what you want with the rear sight. I replaced the factory with a DP adjustable rear sight.

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Sights, trigger, skate tape on front of grip and stipple the back strap.

Yes, but be aware that if you stripple the back strap or any part of the grip, you kick the gun up from SSP to ESP in IDPA. But if you don't care about that, go for it. Skate tap over the whole grip is still SSP legal.

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Hi all,

My shootingbuddy bought an M&P 9 mm the 4,25 version.

What are the most common upgrades? He has to stay production legal.

And from wich website can i order them?

I told him that the fist thing he should do is change the recoilspring. the triggers are supose to be around the minimum triggerpull for productionclass.

Regards Patrick

My recommendation is to contact Dan Burwell (burwellguns.com)and have him do a standard trigger job and replace the sights with his front and rear.

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Sights, trigger, skate tape on front of grip and stipple the back strap.

Yes, but be aware that if you stripple the back strap or any part of the grip, you kick the gun up from SSP to ESP in IDPA. But if you don't care about that, go for it. Skate tap over the whole grip is still SSP legal.

I thought I saw a post or email from IDPA reps that stated the changing the grips via stippling didn't change the gun enough to go from SSP to ESP.

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Sights, trigger, skate tape on front of grip and stipple the back strap.

Yes, but be aware that if you stripple the back strap or any part of the grip, you kick the gun up from SSP to ESP in IDPA. But if you don't care about that, go for it. Skate tap over the whole grip is still SSP legal.

From my understanding and others(forum search)

Removable(Backstrap)Grips = SSP

Permanant Frame Grip Modification(Front Strap)= ESP

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=119889&st=0&p=1356502&hl=m&p%20stipple&fromsearch=1entry1356502

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  • 2 weeks later...

I bought the Comp AEK for my 40L, shot it , and loved it. I then decided to order the RAM to see what all the fuss was about. I'm very happy I did. The Apex mods I did helped me earn first in my division this past weekend. So IMHO get then both, you won't regret the extra couple bucks spent.

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I'm running the Apex competition sear and competition sear spring in mine along with their competition striker spring, plus the USB. Stock trigger return spring. I get a nice 3.5# break, that way, and haven't had to permanently mod anything in the gun. I also run the RAM. As far as sights, I like the Dawson charger .145 rear, and Dawson black serrated .115 front - perfect light bars, very intuitive to use (and, being an Open shooter most of the time, FO front sights drive me nuts, but even shooting groups I shoot standard, black partridge sights better).

These were all user installable parts - you can hit my blog at http://re-gun.com for some writeups - I have a few more coming, just haven't had a lot of time to write :)

I've handled a couple of guns Dan Burwell's done - he does very nice work, near as I can tell. Mike Cyrwus at Accurate Iron also does a good job (handled one of his guns, too). If you're not a tinkerer, or a DIY kind of person, you'd be best of just sending the gun to one of them, I'd think.

I haven't played with recoil springs, at this point - not sure that I will, since this gun will double as a carry gun, too. And, frankly, it's quite shootable with the stock spring, so...

The one thing you'll want to do is group the gun (or have someone that can shoot a group do it for you). They apparently tend to be a bit ammo sensitive, and in some cases, may not be acceptably accurate with anything you put in them. S&W should help you out in the latter case (in fact, they're sending me a FedEx label for my gun to correct accuracy issues in mine). I wouldn't expect too much out of a 4.25" duty gun, but it should be capable of 3" at 25y, I should think, given good ammo and a solid shooter behind it shooting off of a rest...

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  • 3 weeks later...

thank you, do you know what factory recoilspring is used probably a 16#

What recoilsprings do you sugest?

I bought 13# and 15# springs with extra captured guide rods for my PRO 9. My double-tap groups moved side-by-side with the 13# spring, whereas with the quite heavy 16# spring, the second shot was quite a bit low on doubles. The 13# runs fine with factory ammo (115 gr at 1200 fps), never a problem. The 15# spring was not very different from the 16# spring that comes with the gun.

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13 lb spring in my gun was the heat for ~2K rounds, then the gun would pop out of battery unexpectedly.

I like the 13 lb. feel better for full throttle shooting with a 135 pf load, tracks much flatter, but I'd echo the advice of others and stick to the stock spring for 100% reliability.

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Not mentioned previously:

I run extra power striker springs in all of mine.

Either Taylor Freelance or Arredondo mag extensions to play in Limited with 22+1 or 23+1 rounds.

22 or 23 rounds in Limited with M&P :surprise: Oh , I forgot you shoot the less manly "Minor Rounds" :roflol:

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