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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About ChillyB

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    Looks for Match

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    W. PA

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  1. Mine had a hammer that would hang on a disconnector burr. After examining the phenomenon with trigger assembly in my hands, then clearancing where it was rubbing, it never happened again. I was only able to make it do that when working by hand but a slightly greater interference is all it would take. I may have posted photos at some point but this thread is now impossibly long so may take some ready. Maybe search by my user name in this thread.
  2. Investment, as in something that pays for itself? If that is your definition then almost certainly not. My recent production M3000 eats 1-1/8 oz target loads like candy straight out of the box. You may aid the discussion by advising your reason to want to shoot creampuff loads out of a 3" inertia gun. If goal is to shoot cheaper ammo (assuming it doesnt already run with cheap ammo) then run the numbers on how many rounds of cheap stuff one must shoot to break even at $90. If goal is to help mitigate recoil sensitivity issues then I think its worth considering. I had surgery on my shoulder so I can appreciate spending $90 to enable me to use a gun. But maybe an old 2-3/4" Remington 1100 would be a better choice for a bad shoulder.
  3. Also, I did mod my shell stop a bit by grinding back the front of the nose. If you look at it you'll see its straight for a bit before the taper begins. I ground it back to the taper so shells need not be pushed so far before being caught by the latch.
  4. A spring steel coil pin in aluminum hole seems questionable to me. I'll stick with original setup. The pin need not be tight in the hole, though I do admit the little clip is a hassle to install and easy to lose.
  5. I strongly recommend a used complete progressive. So many old guys getting out of reloading, combined with dubious economics of reloading shotshell, and you shouldnt have to look too long to find a clean used setup. Estate sales amd auctions are a good place to look. Remind me why I reload shotshell? Dang, this is an old thread! I could apologize, but apparently there isnt enough traffic to bother.
  6. Cutting on Stoegers is as natural as taking the next hit of crack. But I can stop anytime I want, right? RIGHT?! I moved the port forward a bit more, raised the cut on starboard side, and the loading jam where the crimp overrode the preceding shell's rim is greatly reduced.
  7. Did you try for real parkerizing? For small parts Ive had good luck with a coffee cup in microwave. Thats an excellent base for subsequent painting such as Duracoat.
  8. Here is a photo of a shell in the tube. Not much exposed shell so I have to really hook a thumb in there to get shells past the latch. I think I'll advance the front of the port, sharpen the radius, and raise the starboard side off the port. But before doing any more cutting I'm going to use it as-is. I dont compete so there is no rush.
  9. In the above post you can see the shells jam up in the funnelled area because of the kink in their alignment. Lowering the back of the rear shell will help to remedy this. Until now I hadnt messed with the trigger guard but this condition gives me a reason to do so. I opted to grind a chute instead simply cutting it away. I'm thinking this will help give some lateral stability. I started with a dremel sanding roll, finished off by wrapping a shell in 200 grit sandpaper, rubbing it back and forth to smooth out the chute. GO SLOW WITH THE DREMEL. Easy to take off too much plastic and I nearly did. I realize I'm not doing anything that hasnt been pioneered before. I'm giving my perspective of what I'm doing and why I'm doing it. Every cut should be an attempted solution to a problem. My concern is that I'm not experienced with these shotgun techniques so its quite possible that I will try to solve a technique problem with a dremel. So I'll go very slow and hope for some advice from those who have been through this.
  10. My port work so far has been conservative but is a starting point. If I had a do-over I would not have touched the region aft and below the mag tube entry. My intention was to create a funnel into the tube but what happens is the crimp of the incoming shell jams between the rim of the preceding shell and the tapered floor mag tube entry. I think this will be resolved when I open the loading port forward some more. Photo shows the shell orientation when it locks up. When this happens the shell isnt just difficult to load, it flat out WILL NOT feed no matter how hard I push. My advice is to not try to form a funnel into the tube by tapering the floor of the entrance. Break the edge, chamfer a bit, dont make it a funnel. In the photo you can also see where my port work approached the serial number. 1,8XX,XXX serial range. Brand new Dec 2018 gun.
  11. Not moved. Still limiting port work on lower starboard edge.
  12. I massaged the loading port, and think I need to work forward toward the magazine a bit more. The shell rim is just visible. I still need to stuff my thumb in there to click it past the shell stop. Either the port work needs to advance forward or the shell stop edge needs to move rearward, or both. I dont recall reading of anyone shaving the front tip of the magazine shell stop. This is part number G03, otherwise called the bolt release. Did I miss it? Is this being done?
  13. Thats good to know. But I did some blending and put it on with loctite so I accept that I own it now.
  14. Recent change to the tube makes sense. Mine is smooth amd quiet, didnt require polishing. Not happy that it wasnt held on with loctite, or that the thread fit seemed so loose, but removing it did give me easy acess for some blending. Then I put it back on with green loctite, the kind in a chapstick tube. It feeds better now but not yet satisfied. The lifter still causes crimps to hit the "septum" between barrel and mag tube except now the offending edge is chamfered a bit more so theyll slide past. I want the shells to not hit it at all.
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