kimberacp

Correct, the number one exercise! It is the foundation to all of your shooting! shooting groups at 25 yds.

I have four steel targets that I made up using auto rims for stands. The plates themselves are 8" round and the other three are 6x6 squares, the same size as the a head shot. For me, I mix it up, some steel and paper, steel only, paper only but I always use a partial on the paper. It depends, one or two of the stands come from a truck rim and they're pretty darn heavy to lug around. I think shooting full size steel is of no use for practice. I prefer to use a smaller aiming area both on steel and paper. Another thought...shooting steel is beneficial in the sense that it will reinforce what you already know or don't know about shooting a precise shot! In other words, I can you about what your first kiss but until you do it, you wont really know! Shooting steel is the same idea. I can you tell what to do or what to see but until you shoot and miss or hit it, you wont really have a sense of what it took to make that hit! Shooting a precise shot whether on steel or paper is no different, the process is the same! But it so easy just to shoot the shot at the paper and not really "see" what was needed to "see". Shooting steel is the same deal, when you hit the plate, ask yourself "what did I see" or when you miss and reengage and hit, ask yourself " what didn't I see and what did I see to hit it"? You begin to realize what is really needed to shoot a accurate, every time, whether on steel or paper! And varying the distances of the steel, you will also see "what or how much do I need to see" to make the shot? One last thought, when shooting steel, is calling your shots! What did I see while shooting the shot? Shooting is this game is really a mental discipline for a desire to place the shot, where you want to and to have the visual patience/acceptance of what is acceptable to you as an accurate shot! Shooting steel has help me with that! just my humble opinion

i don't shoot open but I do check out open guns! I like the JV for the recess area the optic sits in and I like Arredondo mount also because of the curved or radius area where the vertical and horizontal sides meet giving the mount an almost non restrictive view from the left side of the gun. Both are good looking mounts! JV is sorta of that industrial look, where Ralph's mount looks futuristic! Damn, I should get an open gun

your going to need a rear sight, too!

Scottlep, what your saying is that your running a SC gun on a 2011 frame with a 9mm bull barrel?

I look for the ones in my dresser draw, that don't have any holes in the toe area!

after reading this blog, I went home and installed a large paper clip. clipped the end facing out towards the operating handle. done. holds the case and I can see clearly the primer slide bar going back and forth. been working fine, ever since.

I have had a RL model since the nineties? I bought it when they were $850.00 and only now am I buying the up graded pawl from Ebay. In matter of fact I bought last night. The pawl on the machine is dented where it contact the shellplate. So I bought one. The other upgrade I did buy and the one that I felt made a big difference, was replacing the steel ball under the shellplate with the plastic one from Ebay. That one ball made a noticeable difference. I have also replaced the turret spring with the one sold on Ebay and that did improved the operating of the machine but nothing like that little ball! So just use the machine, learn how it works and I think getting extra plastic tips for the primer tubes maybe a spare slide bar for the primers are a better idea. I have had the hole in the slide bar get out of shape. FWIW

yes because of his stance

I was there and shot the match. Member of the SWPL in my early twenties. And yes, that was at Wes Thompson's range in Sand Canyon off of North Rte 14 fwy. , exit on Sand Canyon off ramp and turn left over the fwy, then right at the intersection, to the range. The second to last photo is Campbell, Plaxco and it looks like Barnhart and the stage offical standing behind all three of the them looks like Jack Breskovich. That brown wall in the background was the Club Shooting Machine range, it was used for the "Mover" stage from Bianchi Cup. Mickey Frowler and Mike Dalton would practice there on that range. I have photographs from that match in my basement. Nick Pruitt later went on to work part time with a local gunsmith from Corona, name Wil O Hara, then he left. I also have the American Handgunner magazine with Pruitt on the front cover, shooting his comped 45 with the slide back and a empty case flying out! He won the match that year. The third photo from last is a slimmed down Robbie Leatham with his Wilson 38 super comp gun. Notice how the top of the slide is painted black? Both he and Brian had the same guns that year. Yeah, I was there and am still looking forward to shooting at Norco on Saturdays! DAMN!!! What a beginning shooter can now learn or be exposed too, is unimaginable back then, like when I started! Front Sight??? WTF are talking about???? What you can learn on THIS forum is invaluable but it will comes only through experience from practice on the range, then you can related to what is being talked about here on the forum. Like your first kiss! Thanks BE for having this forum! I know, you know who I am? You signed my "beyond the fundamentals" book at the Masters one year! thanks

I have three Para wide bodies in 40sw. And I use the same STI magazines that I would use in my SVI gun. I welded up the mag catch ledge to match the height of the magazine notch on the STI tube. That is all that is needed to use the same STI magazines that you would use in a STI pistol.

yes, it is the same weekend as the WSSSC match.

Single Stack...BABY !!!!!!!

CHARLES D...see you this weekend in Prescott!!!

ChuckS, didnt know you shot single stack? but if you do, thats great!!!

C&S fire control (I made drill rod pins for perfect fit) making your own pins, is pretty slick. but am surprise you kept any of the swartz safety items at all. mine is not a team match and does not have checkering.

my feeling is, seeing your photos, you need more crimp! crimp should be roughly .421 at the mouth case. do not use a gauge, use the barrel chamber as your gauge. as stated earlier, remove the barrel, drop your loads into it. if it does not fall in, apply more crimp to your round, until it falls in and falls out. make sure that the back of the round does stick further out than the barrel hood. you dont need to load at 1.180, anywhere from 1.160 to 1.180 will work, depends your ramp, your magazines, etc. also polishing the ramp is not enough. you have to create a grove onto the ramp, for the bullet to channel its way up into the chamber. most ramps are like a flat wall, the 40sw 180 bullets have a flat shape to them and need some type of grove or channel to feed up. if the angle is too steep, the bullet is just hitting up against a wall. good luck.

drewbeck your gun looks cool!!!

If it were me. I would check... 1. slide stop. see if there is any gold rubbing marks on the inside hump, if there is, file down, careful not to remove the bottom ledge that makes contact with the follower. 2. with an empty case and 600 sandpaper/then use 1000 grit, rolled onto the case. rub it up and down on the feed-ramp, then use a polishing paste with a demel buffing wheel and polish. Also with a small round file, break sharp top corner of the ramp, just round it off and polish with buffing wheel. 3. load your ammo around 1.160 - 1.170 give or take and make sure you have proper crimp. Drop finished round to test into chamber, should fall in and fall out, when you have the proper crimp. no more crimp needed, just enough to ensure round falls in and falls out. 4. change recoil spring to a Wolff 13lb spring. that should be right in the ball park, you can later change to suit your style of shooting. 5. make sure you don't have too much tension on the extractor? check to see if the round slides up easily and stays secure in the hook. also bevel the bottom on the extractor, where the round comes up into the hook. use a slight radius at the corner of the hook and polish. and yes the Tripp Corba/corey mags are the best to use. thats what I would do. JMHO

Ive had them before when using a 45 in SS divison. I was lured to them by the 20.00 dollars price tag! Not worth it. If your really serious about shooting a SS in USPSA, buy the Corba Tripp 45 magazines with the hybrid follower. period. no comparison.

You are correct...pre-travel, has nothing to do with the movement up and down. I think it better to have a lot of pre travel, if your running a 2.5 or less trigger pull weight. Reason being trigger bounce and during a stage run, when setting up to shoot a target, you don't want to press on the trigger and have the shot fired before you were really ready to fire it! That extra take up can help to, prep the trigger and save you from a AD! The up and down movement can be remedied with an epoxy like JB weld. Spread some on the part you want to raise or lower, meaning look at the trigger, while in the gun, view it from the side and move the trigger up and down, see where it needs to be filled, so that trigger is level in the trigger frame track. It will usually be on the bottom, to raise the trigger level. Spread the epoxy and sand it to fit, as you would with a new over sized trigger. Now if you don't like you current trigger for the shape or look, now that's an entirely different issue and you may want to get a different trigger. But again, if the new trigger doesn't fit right you can always use epoxy to make it fit! good luck

spend all the rest of the money on beer, ammo and thai food. in that order????? heah....thinking about, I see nothing wrong that!

as stated above, ramp angle, plus extractor tuning are probably the most common issues with the 40 single stack guns. I agree also, as stated above "the 40sw is much more flexible than the 9mm."

I too, was in the same situation as you, a year ago. I didn't want to let go of shooting 45, and I had a LBaer gun, I couldn't ask for more from this gun but really just in the price of brass alone, among factors, related to reloading components, was enough to make the switch, especially if you shoot Limited in 40sw. It just didn't make sense to continue. Am glad I did. And I use the Tripp 9rd mags. Even when I had the 45, I used the Tripp magazines, awesome magazines, period! The 40sw magazines springs are somewhat thin, so just clean them often and replace the springs. FWIW, I would just shoot one caliber and spend your money on supplies and focus on your shooting skills. Remember, shooting minor is really no advantage, unless your shooting all A's.

I have a kimber 9mm also and read the same thing. But I took an empty 40 case/no primer, slid it up into the breech face, it will not pass. But if you place it inside of the breech face, it will fit. The bottom open is about 0.15 too tight. Also remove the firing pin and look through the firing pin hole from the back of the slide, when you have the empty case in the breech face. Can you see directly through the primer hole of the case? If you can, great , you only need to widen the bottom where the extractor is. If you can not see directly through the primer hole, then you need to open the breech face, on both sides to center the 40 case. I have not done this yet. But pretty straight forward. Or send the slide to Rich D. at Canyon Creek Custom and he can do on a mill. With return shipping less than 70 bucks or so.