kimberacp

should have used JB weld maybe?

With a .394" rim, .3910 base of the body, and .3811 mouth...I'm not sure you are fully sizing the brass...yea you may push it thru, but you are not bringing the brass back to SAAMI specs I would agree with this statement, using the LEE FCD die. that is why I stopped. some had resistance, only some, while everything else just went through.

to do this, would I not need a chamber reamer also?

one smith fix the long trigger bow, by adding a step to the rear of the bow where it contacts the disco. he made jig that had a step and I guess on the milling machine would press down on the rear of the bow to bend the shape of an indention, like a step. that step area is what made contact of the disco and now would fit correctly.

I just found with the 9x18 markov die, the 9mm case would not go through, I had to force it through. I think some even got stuck. I tried it case mouth first, then the bottom but no go. I cant really remember now but it wasnt worth it. Not if your thousands of case, no way. As it is now, no issues at all just reloading them on the press. no failures to feed.

the whole idea is to resize the cntire case. when you do, you notice that the rim of the 9mm brass is also out of spec, not just the belly of the case being bulged. so your reshaping the dia. of the rim, also.

I too, have done this with the LEE FCD for the 40sw. Now that I shoot Open 9mm, I first bought the 9x18 markov LEE FCD, only because I read someone here on the forum used that for 9mm. But it didnt work! So I bought 9mm Luger Lee FCD remove the inside parts and used that for awhile. But I stopped...to be honest, I have been reloading and have not had a problems with the rounds not feeding! Sure it makes sense to full case resize but I have not had any issues with the 9mm, shooting major. What I did notice when I was using in the 40, was that loading the magazines the rounds did stack nicely on top of each other, would expect the same with 9mm but again I have not had any issues, loading magazines or rounds not chambering. FWIW BTW, I would only do this FCD sizing once, when I got Once Fired Brass. Brass I shoot out of my gun, I didnt FCD again and brass at the match, I would leave there anyway. So only once I would do this. thanks

thanks for all the helpful advice! I will call Manson to get one. thanks again!

ShadyScott99, lets us know how the DeltaPro Point works for you.

All parts made for the 1911 will fit the Para base gun, other than the trigger. S_I triggers can be reshaped to fit or Ebay sells Para triggers from the guy in Florida, who builds Para custom guns . So you can get triggers. If you went with a Delta Pro point and Arrandeno scope mount, I do not think you would have much of an issue with cracked dust covers. Magazines...I have three Para limited guns and all use STI or SV magazines. I just spot welded a tab on mag catch lip, to hold the magazine tube in the higher position. That is all that is necessary to use S_I magazines. No fuss about looking for Para magazines. If this is only gun you have, then go for it. Buy the Brazos, comp/barrel comb, one piece set up, get the Dawson magwell, beaver tail, if you do not already have one, thumb safety, mill a little of the slide, scope/mount combo, I mentioned earlier, weld the mag catch for some STI mags and BAMN, you got an open gun! JMO

what is the difference between the two? Is the chamber to deepen where the case sits against and the throat reamer is to extend the barrel lands? this would be for a 9mm major Open gun. I get the ring around the ojive for the bullet when finding a seating depth. I want to seat longer but I see the ring. So would the barrel lands, needs to be extend...is that correct? Not the chamber depth, that would affect the head spacing. thanks

That FP stop is like having a heavy MS spring. What weight are you using in the MS? I assume your running 7lb spring recoil?

I would get the RO Operator!!!!!

we need pictures of the FP stops to get a good idea of how to shape them.

The reality is that you can change how flat the gun shoots more by grip technique than anything you can do with comps or ammo. The best guys shoot fast splits because the gun is resetting fast because they're using the right grip technique to drive the gun properly, and that varies with the shot(s) they're taking. If you have a load that will keep the dot within the scope window with a neutral grip, your comp and load combo is good enough that what you really need to work on is learning grip technique, and how to drive the gun. At some point you'll realize you're shooting much faster, and the gun is tracking smoothly, with very little dot rise. your sir are absolutely correct! I have noticed that (for me), when I have shot the fastest, whether Limited or with Open, if I just cradle the gun, without a death grip and RELAX my emotional state of mind and JUST watch, what is in front of me...there is nothing faster, for me. Especially, with the Open gun, using the technique, I describe above, I see slight dot movement upward and straight back to where it started. Two shots, pin point accuracy! And this all comes from "buning ammo" there is no substitute to practice! IMO

I agree! the 45 degree would look cool!

A Matt, could you post a picture of your Dpoint on a RTS mount? And how did you do yours? thanks

not offering any suggestions but this thread made me remember a photo of J. Micheal Plaxco's AR, when he was shooting 3 gun in the day. A photo of his AR trigger, had a glued on a videki trigger! clever of the guy.

G-Man, what did you think of the 6moa?

the thinnest plastic adapter could be drilled to match the mounts made for the RTS2???

"I would like to look into making an adapter to mount the Deltapoint Pro onto a mount designed for the RTS2. (SV mount)" I would be interested also! I've considered using a Double Tap Sports or SV mount but both are for a RTS2 only. None offer it for a DPro point. If the SV mount is for the RTS2, one can only assume that SV thinks very highly of this optic? I started a thread a few weeks ago asking the same question, about mount a DPro point onto a RTS2 only mount. Didnt get many responsive. thanks

couldnt it be done by machine?

FWIW, I too would agree the EX hammer does lend itself to a crisp break, only because of the design. I would use the EX hammer/sear/EGW disco, only because it can fill the hole in the frame, where as the EX disco does not. But really only necessary if the hole is large, no matter the EGW can be made to fit. Lastly, i would get the EX hammer strut and I use the Nowlin stainless sear spring from Brownells. But the nice parts do not mean a darn, if your not getting equal contact on the sear from the hammer hooks! That's the trigger job!

I just bought a screw gauge from Ebay with three holes to check 5-40 6-40 or 8-40, I think, I forgot at the moment. A few dollars, thought I would it a try. Also, Ebay has the screws your looking for. Check they have all type. You just have to become familiar with screws threads and pitch and all that stuff. good luck

happen to me too, about a year ago. shot groups at 25 yds, off hand with 40sw/OAL 1.170/ 4.6 TG/.422 crimp...side by side....Zero then Extremes back and forth a few times, just to confirm to myself, at 25 yds. I haven't bought any Extremes since then. your choice. good luck