kimberacp

as I read the above posts. someone comes to mind in my area of southern California. Wil O Hara. Local guy, works out of his garage. Learn the trade on his own. Two brand new STI Edge guns, barrel link broke from two different local shooters. Went to Wil, figured out why the link broke and fix them. Among other instances from other "known" gunsmiths that he has fixed issues with their work. All of Wil's work is from ?work of mouth", no advertising, nada! And he has a two year wait, at least! I know for a fact that when you get a gun from Wil O Hara, it will not break. period! I believe when you get a gun from a "big" time gunsmith, it should not break, unless the part was faulty. Saturdays are open to all at his garage for small fixes or just "shoot the breeze" and BTW, he's only a mile or two from Norco run and gun matches. FWIW

thanks for all the replies.

very true about the extractor.. everything else I changed too, along with a EGW slide stop.

Couple of things that come to mind... first why did STI stop offering the flat trigger for the single stacks? They offer it in the wide body model. Second, why do flat triggers all come solid? In an effort to reduce weight and for looks, why are solid triggers not offered with the same 3 hole pattern as the curved triggers????? was it because they were first offered as a tactical add-on?

Another option is a 9mm. open the breechface to 40sw, rebarrel and presto. SA, RO's,(range officer) model, do not come in 40 cal. Only in 45 and 9mm. Maybe one day, the RO, will be available in 40 cal. Or even a 10mm pistol, that would be easier, just rebarrel. Your lucky you live in AZ, you can get any gun you want! I don't understand why RO models, are not offered in 40sw? SA used to make 1911's in 40sw? The only down side of the Para's is poor quality control, my Para as good as it is and am glad I got, the MS housing hole in the frame is not even from one side to other side of the frame, its drilled at an angle! And resale value of Para's is never as high as the SA guns. Sometimes you cant even give them away!

I own a Para Pro Comp and just got a SA 40 with the rear Novak. The previous owner had the SA custom shop checker the front strap at 30 lpi, he then added a SA magwell and it came with a adjustable rear novak sight. I paid 1200. For me living in Los Angeles and having no more Single Shot Exemption loop hole, I was good with paying the 1200. If I had to settle on getting just one? I would get the Para! Why? It comes with very good VZ grips, its 25 lpi checking front strap and has adjustable sights. Add a magwell and you done, for now. Sure eventually you'll need trigger work and remove the PXT extractor but all that can wait. Adjustable sights are a big plus, no matter how junkie the LDA sights are, they are adjustable and can be replaced with better ones, if need be. And the Para shoots pretty damn good! I use the Tripp 10mm Corey mags. IMO

I have the new TR sear jig and it is much easier to use (for me) than the Powers jig. I had a Powers jig years ago but could never get the sear face even. You do not have that difficulty with the TR jig. There is a lot to doing trigger work but I had the fortunate luck of getting help from one the BE forum members...Powder Finger! To make this short, I will say that really the (meat and potatoes) of a trigger job is getting equal contact from the hammer hooks to the sear face. Period! No matter what jig you use, that is the trigger job! Yes, everything that surrounds the sear/disco/hammer combo, needs attention and asking questions, is how you will become aware of them. But understand how / why the two jigs are different, along with achieving equal contact onto the sear from the hammer hooks, is also different, between the two jigs, would be helpful. Don't be fooled about changing out the parts to (drop in trigger kits)...sure you can but are you getting equal contact on the sear from the hammer hooks??? Probably not! good luck!

installed a new EBrown TSafety and when I flip it upward to safe the safety rotates outward, just slightly. Enough to notice a gap between the safety surface and frame. Now when the plunder insides are removed, it does not rotate outwards. How would remedy this? Is it caused by the dipole on the safety? Do I re-contour the shaped towards the frame? thanks

dawson precision way better than any factory sight. even without the fiber optic. better sights. period.

Trojan has standard extractor the Para has the PARA extractor. no big deal I went with the Para only because of the front strap checkering and the 100 dollar rebate, at the time. again the only thing that bother me, was the MS pin holes not lining up.

I use 4.8grs TG with Xtreme 180gr. 1.170 -1.180. And have used WST 5.0grs Xtreme 180grs. 1.170-1.180. I do like the TG for the being a slight more snap to it. But in the end it doesnt matter! Pick one or use BOTH and just "burn ammo"! Supplies being the way they are, stock up of whatever you can get.

change the flat bottom firing pin stop. use the one that came in the gun. if you can hand rack the slide back, then the flat bottom FP stop is reducing the velocity of the slide moving back enough as to not go slide lock. IMO

FWIW, I have a Para Pro Comp 40 SS I bought last year before May to take advantage of the 100 dollar rebate. Now I live in California and getting 40sw SS guns now is impossible! That being said, the Para Pro Comp 40, is a good gun. I have shot some very decent groups at 25 yds with it. I use the same load of 180 extreme bullets with 4.8 TG, 1.180 OAL in both this SS gun and my limited wide body guns. Now, since I bought this Para Pro Comp 40, I did fit a new Fusion LW trigger (stock trigger just rattle around in the frame and rear of the bow was crooked), changed ignition parts to EE hammer/sear/disco, the stock disco was getting rubbed by the case rim as the magazine was loaded, added EB thumb safety, a EGW slide stop, worked the extractor hook, added a magwell, am using Burner grips and using Tripp/Cory mags. Another flaw with this gun, is that MS housing pin holes do not line up to each other on the frame, easy fix but still a flaw I wasn't expecting. Again, FWIW....I was in the same camp as to 40 or 45? After doing the switch, I will never again shoot 45!!!!!! There are many reasons and a few have been stated here already but am GLAD I did the switch!!!!

1.170 to 1.180"

Maybe. I only say this because this was the thinking on forums in regards to Kimber pistols too. That the 10mm was the same breech face size as the 9mm. I have a Kimber 9mm and the bottom opening before the extractor is smaller than a 40sw breech face on my Para 40. That being said I place a 40sw case inside of the breechface of the Kimber 9mm slide, the rounds fits easily. It is only when the round is beginning to come up away for the magazine lips that opening about .015 ths. smaller, before coming in contact with the extractor. A few swipes with a file would fix that. The 40sw case does fit inside the 9mm breechface, with the extractor holding it. FWIW

IMO this is correct. Also, you really don't need to see the FS clearly....you just need to focus on it! As long as your focus comes back to the FS or the corners of the FS, when you break the shot, the hit will be there. Even if your not seeing the FS clearly, all that really matters is that YOUR FOCUS comes back to the FS, the millisecond you break the shot! This is what is meant by :seeing what I needed to see". More often we think, we are focusing on the FS, but really our focus is on the target through the sights. Focusing or seeing the corners of the FS, for that small instant, when we press the trigger, ensures that our focus is really on the FS, regardless it is clearly in focus or not. "seeing what I needed to see...no more, no less". FWIW, this has been my experience.

Is it best to follow his video? Or how is it best to get the sight started into the dovetail? On 1911 slide. Thsnks

sorry I miss understood the poster question, I guess he was looking for maybe a 1911 SS in 45. pardon

does SA make a Ranger Officer model in 40? 9mm and 45acp, yes but 40sw?

Listen to what this guys has to say! Every good advice...IMO

Ive done two frames. I used a small long nose vise grip, roofing nail cut down and shapen to a point, to fit inside the tunnel, I think two pieces of aluminum of different heights to cover the PT, ( I cant remember how I arranged them at the moment) and presto! Staked two PTs, rock solid. BTW, I didnt even bevel the inside like they show you on youtube. just clamped down the vise grip on the nail head...done.

how can you tell if you have the right size barrel link on a drop in used barrel? thanks

may take on this is that one gun I have has a Bomar rear sight, the other is a Para single stack with a Para LDA rear sight. The LDA has a taller rear blade which give a deeper notch to view more of the front sight, compared to the Bomar. Ive tried to deeper the notch on the Bmar but you can only go so low before it bottoms out in the notch. I like the seeing more blade/front sight, when shooting faster or seeing faster. With the Bomar, its easy to shoot without seeing what you need to see, because your only seeing maybe half or a quarter of the front sight. thanks

JB weld....good idea!!!!! And dont forget the flat black spray can! I use for lots of other gun stuff. Loose trigger in the frame, JB weld on the top of the trigger, file to fit. I file the front sights narrower and tape and spray!

wolff....there is really no other