kimberacp

where did you get the rebate? does it come with the gun? thanks

exactly what I would do if I had one!

no...wait. I have a Kimber 9mm and although I dont recall the measurment, I could fit a 40 case into the breechface. Now saying that, the bottom where the round slides up, the area next to the extractor, will not let a 40 case slide up, only a 9mm case, which I do remember is .357 or something like that. If you look here on the forum, you will find others that have mentioned that Kimber used the same breechface size for both 40 and 9. And while I am not a gunsmith, it seems to me that if only the bottom is tighter to only let a 9mm case up into the breechface and the gun works...no problem, right? Because my gun shoot 9mm alright! So, by opening up that area to allow a 40 case up into the breechface, a 9mm gun can be made to shoot 40sw. IMO

how can you tell when the magazine were made? no serial number, no date of mfg. so how can law enforement tell you have illegal magazines?

what mag release to you use with this grip??

cool, thanks

keep us posted eith your discoveries! one other thought, EGW does sell comp blanks along with the adapter you got from them. but I guess any gunsmith can make one from a chuck of scrape aluminum) thanks

thanks for that last post. when you mean AL, you are talking about the aluminum comp, correct? question about the barrel being proud, was that done so that the gases would not erode or wear away from the front face aluminum? thanks there could be more interest in this concept, since it was debated last year on the forum, when it was announced that rules in Limited were being lifted. there was alot of talk about a "solid comped" Limited gun. sooooo, more photos would be great!!!!!

ah1356 why did you use a bull barrel to turn down? could you not have use a straight classic barrel? thanks

16" mid length with rifle buffer and JP buffer spring. BCG is full weight. Ammo chronos at 3000 fps. Does not lock back with empty magazine and will not manual lock back when pulling the handle back. I can see through the ejection port that the BCG is not going back far enough for the latch to catch on the front of the carrier. Could the spring be too long? Am not too concern about the last round not lock back, new magazines could fit that but pulling back the handle and seeing the carrier not going back enough does concern me. Any ideas. thanks

not that it matters, its a beautiful gun but what caliber??? thanks

Les Baer Premier II. has everything you need, no junk parts on it. holds its resale value.

yes that is correct not on the barrel nut threads but on the extension. any locite? thanks

should I use glue or locite when installing the barrel nut back on??? thanks

post #2

exactly like Chrills 1994 said, you dont have to trim everytime, only when needed.

there is alot of posts of this topic. I did read everything I could on this forum about loading .223. I have a 1050, bought a RT trimmer and tried a setup like you describe. what I came to the conclusion (for me), without going into a long story of the steps I did. I finally do it this way and it works well. and since you have two loaders 1050/650, you can easily do the first part on the 650. on a rockchucker with lubed brass: 1. decapping (using a Lee 40SW die) it only decaps 2. FL /trim with the RT trimmer 3. since the RT trimmer only FL and reduceds the neck smaller than you want, about .009's smaller than you need, 4. I run all the brass again using only the FL die, screwed down enough, so that ONLY the expander plug runs through the necks to reopen the brass to about .222. Thats enough neck tension to hold the bullet, which is about .224. You can determine the tension by reduce the size of the expander plug on a drill, using a file and sandpaper. Measure first see where you are at on the expander. . Tumble Then run load on the 1050: 1. swage 2. prime 3. load powder 4. seat bullet thats it!! rounds really dont need the crimp but if you like to crimp, then on the last stage add the crimping die. but really not needed. no tumbling needed either, since your not handling lubed brass or shavings on the brass, when loading on the 1050. I don't shoot thousands and thousands of 223 a year but you would be surprise how quickly you can do six to eight hundred rounds on the Rockchucker before going to the 1050. if your doing more brass, doing this way in your spare time before loading on the 1050 is not a big deal. hope this helps with this method I can get sub half MOA @ 100yds.

just when I thought mid length was the ticket, now comes out intermediate gas length barrels!!

what gas tube would you use for intermediate length? does anyone make one???

Has anyone used a 16" with a rifle gas system??? Is a rifle 18" barrel w/ rifle gas preferred over a 16" w/rifle gas system?? thanks

mine is like the last photo with the cotter key. No I would say there is medium pressure on the spring. I was loading 223 with H335 powder. One thing I did notice was the square cube that rides in the slot for the powder measure. I was sort of...angle in the corners so I replaced it. Also on mine since it so old, in the last photo, the longer slot where the rod rides on, had a rough surface with bumps. So I sanded it down and now I grease that whole area where the rods moves in. I have switch to loading 45 and will see if I get the same slamming effect. thanks

has anyone experience the powder measurer bar slamming back after the pouring powder into the case? It seems as though the bar get stuck after the downstroke on a 1050 and returns in a slamming motion. Does not happen everytime on the downstroke only on occasion. What can be causing this???? thanks

I removed the BCG and I can see the exhaust inside of the chamber and up along the wall of the receiver escaping through the gas tube hole. The end of the gas tube is shinny clean about a 1/4 inch, the rest of the area is covered with soot. That tells me that gas is escaping from the chamber, right??? Could it be that my handloads, I bumped the shoulder too far down, in an effort to ensure that they chamber and extract without getting stuck????? The loaded rounds fit the Dillon gauge and do not fall below the lower limits. About even or maybe slightly below. thanks

just got back from the range and the ran but after 50 or so rounds the bolt is not stripping the next round. I can hand cycle but not shot after shot. When I remove the magazine, I can see signs of gas on the top rounds. I can also see between the receiver and handguard the gas tube is black from soot. there is no gas leak from the gas block, only from the area I mentioned. So, what should I look for when I dismantle the upper? thanks