Farmer

A little tip on seating depth. Some guns shoot better with a little extra jump. I usually start with a seating depth of .015” from the lands and test from there. In other words seat the bullet .015” deeper from where it just plunks and spins. Some of them shoot more accurately at .025 or greater. You’ll just have to see what works best in your guns. My Hellcat and XDM prefer around .020 with most bullets. Although my XDM 10mm has a long throat and is impossible to even get close and it shoots just fine.

Well I sent an error log just because. Have run into this type of thing before over the years. It would be like if I came into your house or workshop and moved everything you use regularly around every month or so.

Use as a reference, there’s many charts and some place powders in different slots. https://hodgdonpowderco.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/updatedburnrateschart-1.pdf

If I read the OP right I think he wants to shoot one gun in different classes, not multiple guns.

If you’re trying to load minor power your powder choice is too slow. If your bullet was heavier or you increased the charge it would more than likely settle down. I’m guessing that the factory Syntec loads are possibly loaded with something similar to Sport Pistol. As an example Sport Pistol is #15 on the burn chart while CFE Is #45. Your just not getting an efficient burn.

Are you talking about a shot list or a string within a shot list? To delete a shot list just slide it to the left and it gives options to edit or delete.

Wonder if current flash hole size will work too or if they’ll need to be enlarged. Just what everyone wants to do is drill out 10k cases.

Looks like they dicked with it again. Now half the operations are at the top of the screen instead of at the bottom. Damn programmers always gotta screw with stuff just when you get used to things.

Great to hear! Glad everything came back clear.

Yeh, yeh, yeh. Another one afraid to learn something.

By the lacquer coating on the inside of the primers. A 100m Fed has green paper, 200m has a red dot. SR match has a purple coating, SR std has a small purple dot. CCI uses yellow paper, WW uses red lacquer for magnums. You guys really need to pay attention to this stuff.

Weight goes down, charge goes up!

Maybe they’re getting them from White River. I looked more closely at the factory primed brass I have and by the color coding it looks like they toss in whatever is available. I once bought some factory primed WW rifle brass and noticed that there were std and magnum primers in them.

Your right. I was just paging through a Midsouth ad that had LR on sale. One big thing I noticed was all the accessories that added to the price. Battery, case, this that and the other thing. Garmin shows up, Here ya go, toss this on the table and go. No extra $$$ as far as I know of.

They had to do something.

The one flaw in his testing is that he should have tested the velocities of the ported gun before it was ported. Or use just one gun and do a before an after. The differences are subtle but that could also be just because of two different bbl’s. An accuracy test while doing this would have been nice too.

I have noticed that about the loads in my manual too. Most show a lower velocity than what I’m getting even from different guns but I’m not getting psi signs. I also noticed that one jug of #5 I have is .2 grains faster than the others and it weighs different. In other words the new jug needs .2 grains more to equal the same velocity as the old one. So depending on which lot a person gets could make the difference. I haven’t pushed 572 yet in the 9, just tried a few in the 327FM and it was pretty accurate and clean in it. Just a little above starting load so far, that round peak’s pretty quick so haven’t pushed it yet.

Not positive but I think it will. I’ll do some checking.

@JoeInTucson Pretty easy to download it. A fast powder like Clays, e3, ClayDot works well. I haven’t tested Sport pistol yet but with around 4.0g e3 behind a 155-175 coated they run around 850-950 from my 5.25. I have to look but I may have some in the 750 range too. They function fine too even though I have a 20lb recoil spring installed. (Stock is #18) The 10mm is a pretty versatile round.

To go along with what Miranda said, make sure you’re getting full stroke on it too. I noticed that the drum doesn’t dump straight down even when at the top of the stroke so it needs all the help it can get. Only other thing I could think of is to check for burrs on all the parts. Maybe there’s something (casting flash) in the mouth of the housing pushing powder out of the cavity when operating quickly. I took my hopper off and watched the operation of the rotor when I first got it to make sure I was getting a full stroke on it. Just an idea.

What? No SRH?

I did some testing with mine to see if it would vary under different conditions and so far it works fine. I tried shaking it, activating it fast, slow, running the shell up quickly and so far it stays within .1 of what I want. Don’t know if a different powder would change that or not. Was going to try some SP in it so I guess I’ll have to watch it.

6.0 of Silhouette nets me 1230 from a 4.5 bbl and that’s what they consider a +p load. I can get better accuracy and as good as vel with AA#5. Haven’t tested CFE in the 9 yet. WSF works good with lead bullets.

Head straight up, don’t hunch, both eyes open, shoulders relaxed, don’t squint, BLAM hey it hit where I was aiming!! Lots of old bad habits to break. @392heminut I can relate to the two fingered upside down wrist elbow standing on your head tongue sticking out blind bolt starting technique.

The Nuke, they were a regular JHP but they opened up the nose a bit for a SD bullet. I’ve tried them both and both shoot as good as the MW’s in my guns.