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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Farmer

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Everything posted by Farmer

  1. @Guy Neill Thanks for the correction on the Potassium Chlorate VS the Potassium Nitrate that I posted earlier. One question I had for you was that early on I was told that the first NT primers needed the larger flash holes because they actually had Less Brisance or weaker flame travel than a regular primer. Did they change or was that just a bunch of BS from a magazine writer?
  2. If you know or have an idea of what powders and primers you’ll need I suggest you buy them now and stock up even if you don’t have the press yet. That goes for loaded ammo too.
  3. I had to take my Lee nut out and clean it up. It had chips in the slots and the threads were rough. Dug out the chips, wire wheeled the nut and now it’s easy to get tight.
  4. That’s how they are designed so it doesn’t break the decapping rod. You just have to re-set it manually. The price reflects the difference.
  5. All good reasoning. Kinda my thinking of Never Give Up!
  6. I just got word from a local supplier that the US is going into full production to replace the armament that they had given to Ukraine. What that means is that after the last batch is gone there probably won’t be any more for another year. So if you’re on the fence about picking up supplies you may want to jump on whatever you can.
  7. Just a hypothetical question but just say you were cruising along great with your rimfire and it jams a round in the mag or you screwed up and ran dry,(not full mag) would it pay to attempt a re-load or just take the 30? I know you toss the worst but what if it’s a really bad day?
  8. I had some IMR4320 that took on a rusty look but it didn’t have the acrid smell to it. I rolled it around on a towel and removed most of the rust and loaded it up and it shot fine. It wasn’t that much though.
  9. I don’t remember the exact formula for the very old primers that were corrosive but I thought those also contained potassium nitrate (Salt Peter) that also attracted moisture. Hopefully this new formulation doesn’t cause problems.
  10. Yeh I ran across some Fed 9’s and WW 45’s that way. The WW 45 didn’t say NT, just had the giant flash holes. Used to drill them out for blanks and plastic bullets to keep the primers from backing out. I also heard that the NT primers don’t have as much uuummph so they need the larger holes. I’m going to do a test and see if it makes any difference with a std primer and normal flash hole.
  11. A lot of High Points in the area??
  12. Been for sale for around a year. Talked to another company about it and he said for that price it probably won’t sell very fast either. https://montanagoldbullet.com/for-sale-bullet-manufacturing-plant/?fbclid=IwAR3uvS2NpaEv2JLqDt7zCZ6wMhbOpcpY33o53aHmQI8wL6-JBO1KMvjutBA
  13. First off is your die contacting the shell holder firmly? If not you may be contributing to the bulge by not resizing as far as possible. Even though they may not have the “Glock bulge” you might just run them through a bulge buster to iron them out. Be forewarned that if they are stretched excessively they may be thin and should just be tossed. I had some “glocked” brass that I busted and even though they load fine they are right at 35 fps slower than the same brass that’s not been busted. Just something to note when at the chrono.
  14. Most are either .040” or .060”. Most Dawson sights are .040 and the ones on Springfields are .060”. True Glo and Dawson are good and bright and I know you can order a long piece from Dawson and just cut to fit. Theirs takes a fair amount of heat to melt so it may be better if you’re having problems with the muzzle blast melting them. You could use the end of a drill bit to measure the hole.
  15. @HaywizzleThank you and your GF for the pictures, now the gears are turning. (Can you smell the smoke?) @Dr. PhilYes I thought a dropping plate would work well for the stop plate in SC.
  16. @Haywizzle Mine look like Mikey’s too. Thanks on the targets. I was just thinking of making something for 22 RF just for fun. Those must just have a pin or hook on the back that holds them up?
  17. It’s going to be smaller than that because you’re going over the ogive. I generally just give it enough to slightly press into the bullet or touch it. You can usually see a gap or lack of gap between the brass and bullet. Might have to play with it a bit. If they don’t shoot well at that length you can always go longer and just taper crimp the same. Over the ogive just helps hold them in a bit better. I have a question for you. Would a 22 be enough to knock down those falling steel targets? Might be a better target for steel shoot as you could definitely tell a good hit and wouldn’t have to re-paint.
  18. ^2X I seat non cannalure bullets just a bit over where the the bullet starts to taper and leave a gap between it and the case then taper crimp. It’s easy to check where the ogive starts by just setting your caliper to the diameter or a hair under and drop the bullet nose first into the jaws. Just mark the bullet where it stops and test your oal.
  19. It appears that the 147’s get a more complete burn, but whatever North Florida is loading appears to be quite efficient. How do they shoot?
  20. That certainly is quite interesting. No real definitive reason. Would be interesting to know what the powders were used in the loads.
  21. The heat generated by you shooting so fast is causing the hammer to swell and that shim makes it too tight. That sounds better than shooter error.
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