Farmer

With a spring loaded ejector in the bolt it would be extremely difficult to do. It would have to be removed first. No insult intended but I think you are really really really overthinking this. I once chased this around for a long time and it caused more problems than good results so I just fully size them to function and go shooting.

Just for the heck of it, load a couple up a little hotter to see what happens. I notice that the ones in the CBC brass (thicker) look more normal. It’s more like the primer is flowing around the pin while it’s out than flowing past the pin into the hole. I’ll have to check mine again because I just got some a month ago.

I tried powder (#9 because of its fineness and higher density) when trying to figure out my low numbers. It wasn’t until I checked it with water that it really showed up.

I’ll throw another fly in the ointment. Brass. I was doing some ladder testing just to test increase of velocity per tenth of a grain of powder. I chose some Fed brass I had, bullets were within .2 and loads were hand weighed. In every group there was one round that was consistently 20-30 fps slower than the rest. This sparked another test, narrowing it down to 4 pieces of bass I found the one bad apple and marked it. It looked the same, same headstamp but it was one that had been glocked and ran through the push through sizer. Water volume testing showed that it had greater volume than all the others. I couldn’t visibly see any stretching internally but somewhere the case gained volume which lowered the vel. I may section it to try and get a closer look.

You are correct on that. I just noticed that I didn’t get the “1/4” in my teaspoon measurement above so corrected it. I also think the car wax adds a bit of buffer/surfactant to it also. The first batch I tried with just Lemi and Dawn came out very clean but very dry (squeaky clean). That’s why I added the wax. I process everything beforehand anyway so it’s already sized but the wax seems to keep the brass from tarnishing in storage and slides on the expander a bit easier. If you have hard water the acid helps combat that to help with the water spots.

Only if you have an Ackley chamber.

Either vinegar, Lemi-Shine or citric acid. In my small tumbler I use a gallon of hot water, a heaping 1/4 tsp of Lemi Shine and an ounce or two of turtle wax depending on how dirty they are. If really grungy I’ll add the pins. My bro in law gave me some plow wax that they use on the snow plows to keep the snow from sticking. It works well in the rinse to prevent spots and slick things up. Problem is, I don’t know who makes it. So if you know somebody who works with snow removal equipment they may know about it. I’m trying to find out who makes it and if a person can order it.

Maybe wrap and tape some white paper around the optic, fire a mag full and see if you can tell if there’s marks on the paper. Just a thought.

Turtle Wax wash-n-wax, Armorall wash and wax or just about any car wash and wax soap in with your washing solution will help shed off the water spots. I dump mine out on a towel and roll them a bit before putting them into the dryer and I think that helps a lot too. I like the slickness the wax provides especially when flairing the brass.

If your jacketed are .355 and the plated are .356 you’ll get a little difference in crimp there also. I generally give all my crimps .001 at the mouth. There’s always spring back ect but up to the bullet and .001 more usually works for me.

This picture is technically not correct. Headspace is the measurement from where the shoulder meets the chamber to the case head. The “Space” is actually the .000-.003” from the case head to the bolt face. And yes if you size them back to “new brass spec” you’ll be good. I have tried to fit brass closely to the chamber in automatic’s and it just doesn’t work well. Better off just FL sizing, that way every one chambers and works. I actually had some once fired range brass that I had to run through a small base die first because my regular die wouldn’t size them enough to fit my chamber. I don’t know where in my postings that quote came from that I said the S die also FL sized. You can get them either way, neck or full length. Just a bit confused on where that came from.

Me too, they give a lot more control. I also had a problem with a TC bbl that had a fairly normal length but large diameter chamber. When the die was set for the proper length, the base diam wasn’t sized enough. When the base was sized enough, headspace was excessive and brass only lasted 3 reloading’s. Getting it in the sweet spot was a challenge to say the least. Made a tomato stake out of that barrel.

Did the same as shred, we had a Pact, Shooting Chrony and a CED. The Pact and the Chrony were the closest to each other while the CED was consistently a bit slower. I had sent my CED in for repairs once and when I got it back all my previous loads were about 50 fps slower. So who do you believe? I do know my latest one matches much closer to what the loading manual’s show.

I don’t know what sizing die you are using but if it uses a pull through neck expander that can cause problems if the inside of the neck isn’t lubed. If it pulls out hard it can slightly pull the shoulder forward and mess the whole works up. Just something to watch out for.

I looked real close at the Norma brass I have, (magnifier) and could see where there was a dimple where a full sized flash hole should have been with this pin hole through it. It is like the flash hole punch was wore out and nobody bothered to replace it.

Thanks, It’s much quicker and Redding shell holders seem to be the tightest if you have some tough ones.

It may be your eyes. I can see green sharper than red like on calculator numbers and other instruments. Have you tried looking through it with different colored glasses or a lens if available?

Here’s some. https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/18885 Here’s some more. https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/00178t10057/vihtavuori-n320-smokeless-pistol-powder-4-lb Midsouth has free shipping (not hazmat) until 1/1/24

pu$$y

I bought some rounds, 10” & 12” from this supplier. Quality was good, friendly service and free shipping. I don’t have any longevity testing on them yet though and am building my own stands. https://shootsteel.com/

I’d say Clays if you could find it but Alliant e3 would work well too. Only drawback is it’s flaky and some powder measures don’t play nice with it. The Lee auto drum works pretty good though.

Remember to double check your first finished round after the shell plate is full to account for flex. That’s something that’s not mentioned in the video. Also the reason your FCD rounds were easier to disassemble could be because the die was sizing down the bullet in the case making it actually looser. The 45 auto and 10mm auto are two of the easier/easiest rounds to load. To me 9mm is a pita compared to them.

Have you tried seating a bit deeper and crimping where the ogive starts? This allows the mouth to be crimped smaller than bullet diameter. Sometimes it works. It helped with my 38 sp with some TC bullets I had without a cannalure.

What Guy said. + Are you using mixed brass? You have enough flair and Not shaving the bullets if using coated or lead? When I use mixed brass for practice, I take the loosest (thinnest/shortest brass) and the tightest (thickest/longest brass) and try and adjust in between. The 45 auto isn’t or doesn’t seem to be as finicky about crimping as the 9mm. Or at least I haven’t noticed it.