Farmer

Reminds me of Belushi in Animal House.

Or 1/4” 500. It doesn’t weigh any more than 400 but should last longer and would hold up to a larger caliber if it accidentally got popped.

In everything I do the more I screw with it the worse I perform. It’s like it distracts me from what I should be paying attention to…..like the beep, green light ect. Just stage and Go. My hunting friend says every time he over analyses a shot ie (how far is it, what’s the wind, should I take a neck shot ect ect) he’ll miss every time. Just pull up and BLAM it’s on the ground. I’ve seen him do it many many times from 50-200 yards.

I had bought up several powders for rifle, shotgun and pistol before the pandemic. Just saw that Varget is now $67 per pound and I think I payed $17 a pound for a #8 jug. The other thing I noticed is that there’s not much discount between a one pound or eight pound jug, and on some items the larger quantity is actually more.

Glad to hear you figured it out and didn’t shoot anymore. Something along the reloading process must have gotten messed up.

I think most of it started with the manufacturers putting “DO NOT TUMBLE LIVE AMMO” in their owners manuals. I remember reading that in the one for my vibratory cleaner.

800x Isn’t anywhere close to HS6 In appearance, burn rate maybe.

That or put them in the closest available box. That load is closer to HS6 or AA7 and those two would definitely be easy to distinguish from 700X.

@OneWay Think it was Heat Stop. I may even still have some. It was a light wet clay like material that really did absorb a lot of heat. Was similar to some of the stuff they use in furnace pots to protect the bricks.

Are you sure it’s 700X in them?

Is that from the same place that said Lake City was not making commercial ammo anymore too? The way there’re going it won’t make much difference. I would think that Red Dot/Promo are two of their biggest sellers volume wise to trap shooters and neither one has been available for a long time. That’s probably why though.

I’m older than you but put me in your Will anyway.

Yes, a vague measurement of time.

Yeah, the usual new year price increases, and I don’t think it’s going to get better for a while.

I was wondering if there’s any bullet in the case?

The first dot I tried was an Ultra Dot on my SRH 44 for hunting. I opted for the 30mm tube and it has a 4+ moa dot. I can find it much faster than the reflex I have and it has held up through some pretty rough use.

I’ll add that it’s a perfect platform to introduce new shooters with also. With the low recoil and noise levels people that are sensitive to that can play the game too. New shooters, male & female, younger shooters all can enter and enjoy the fun with little expense. This is what draws new shooters in and keeps the games/clubs going.

No reason at all not to try it as long as you’re on the lower psi side. I have some 135 RN that I have to seat .020” deeper than a similar FN bullet from the same manufacturer. If I don’t they pattern more than a group. Sometimes it’s a matter of psi and timing and seating depth affects both.

It should a material that can be hardened similarly to the spring so the two can slide easily together without the spring digging in but something that doesn’t get brittle. I know on some of my guns where I’ve polished the struts that they are pretty hard but I think could be bent slightly if needed. You may be on the right track with a chrome moly as that’s what many springs are made of. The heat treatment will be the key but I think can be done fairly easily. I know Brownells has some stuff called I believe called Hard and Tuff (I’ll have to check) that you dip your part in before hardening it. It protects the surface from o2/oxidation and gives a hard surface hardness while leaving the center non brittle. I’ve used it on some die’s I’ve made and it works well.

That old RCBS, Lyman lube that you rolled on a lube pad was absolutely horrible. If you didn’t take it off it was like someone rolled all your rounds in STP or honey. Was so happy when affordable carbide dies came out for pistol, and Imperial Sizing wax for rifle cases.

I think back on all the crap we did as kids and wonder why we’re still alive.

Mmmm, love that oaky maple flavor with side notes of resin, urethane and lead.

American Select is close to Sport Pistol in burn rate but it’s a larger flake powder. It does work very well with lighter loads. I haven’t compared it side by side grain for grain with SP but it’s pretty close. Same as e3 and Clays, you can use Clays data for e3 without any problems. I believe zzt can give you better information about Competition, I have some but haven’t messed with it much.

I’ll almost bet you’re getting brass spring back. Your die is crimping hard enough to crease the bullet but the brass springs back once’s it’s out of the die. That’s the reason for the same measurement. In your pic I can definitely see the taper in the bullet. Try measuring it just for giggles. But if it works, go for it.