Smithcity

I'm sure lots of people shoot FMJ's through can's, although I agree, I'd prefer not to have melted lead coating the inside of my suppressors. Good thoughts, I can see polymer debris melting and doing the same thing, I'd imagine powder coated would be better but who knows. It is a silencerco suppressor, if you shoot trash ammo through it and the can gains weight, just send it back, they'll take care of it! Although I've found SCO's support to be lacking in recent months. I've called several times, left voicemails, and e-mails and can't get answers to some simple questions.

Very nice. You have one? Any thoughts on how it runs?

Dont shoot any kind of coated bullets through it? If so, why? Does junk melt off into the can? I love my omega 9k. I load 147 gr Xtreme bullets CMJ, 1.135oal, with 4gr of VVN340, puts me somewhere around 950fps out of a 4.5" barrel

9mm and 40. Looking for a regular source to buy from, I.e. if I'm buying 10k-20k of brass at a time, wondering if one of the "big guys" offers a rolling options.

Got the same MPX / trigger combination. After you install the trigger and pins, you really have to crank down those two lock screws with the allen key they provide. The screws are pre-installed in the housing, if they aren't tightened enough, your pins will walk. Now...what is "tight enough", I don't know. Timney doesn't give you an in-lb spec. I would probably start with 20 in-lb and increase from there if they are still walking on you. I did it by hand "fairly" tightly and haven't had anything walk. I'm probably 3k-4k rounds into the trigger.

I know rolled brass comes up now and again in the non-dealers brass section and the classified, anyone have a good source from a company online for buying once fired, rolled brass? Been looking and finding brass that comes polished, "sized", decapped, swaged, and or primed. Can't seem to find a "rolled" option.

Really interested in some Mark 7 products (1050 pro, evolution, revolution), saw them at shot show, we tried to place an order but the wait was terribly long and we had to move on (missed out on the discount). We've called Mark 7 several times with the intent of asking technical questions to narrow down what we wanted to purchase, every time we call we get a sales person that doesn't know the in's and out's of their products. We've been told we would get a call back, this has happened several times over ~3 weeks. No calls back. We just want to ask some questions before placing a $20k-$30k order. Makes me wonder what type of support I'd get if I really had a problem. Has me worried. Products look great, I'm dying for the automatic primer collator, not sure if I feel like waiting weeks+ to get answers to simple questions then wait months before something comes in, then having to ask questions or needing support and not being able to get a hold of anyone.

Hmmm, I'll have to try it. I'd presume a shorter / sharper impulse. I guess if the gun runs quicker, the recoil event is over faster allowing you to get back on target quicker. This would assume the sharper impulse doesn't cause more movement in the gun when compared to a longer impulse in which energy is dampened over time (lower magnitude peak impulse), or I'm over thinking it.

If it fits your hands, you can shoot it well enough, it runs reliably, and can drop the optic, go for it! If it doesn't run, dont bother, the top requirements for doing well in USPSA is reliability, reliability, reliability. Sig p320 platform is also a great production option, easy enough to swap out grip modules and find something that works well for you.

Agreed, fight the humidity, Illinois is damn humid. Or....get rid of the safe and go for the Secure-It Model 52 and put it in your closet. When I fill my ridiculously heavy safe, I'm expanding into secure it safes, makes more sense.

I dont get it I have their enhanced SCP, why would I want it to be a short stroke system? Are 0.13s splits not fast enough? I'd like to know what it really buys you. I suppose if it allows the gun to cycle 0.05s faster and you can realize it, on a ~32rnd stage it could buy you 1-2s, for a match with 8 stages, that could add up to ~12s I suppose. I question if anyone can really run the gun fast enough and accurate enough to see the benefit.

Short answer...yes. Dont let their faster speed influence you to shoot faster than you can. Rather, watch how they break a stage down and conquer it. Observe their form, their foot work, how they take barriers, etc... those are the direct skills you can learn by shooting with better shooters. I can't keep track of the number of times I changed my stage plan after watching someone else execute something better than what I cooked up.

I should have been more specific.Totally agree, I have the bottom feeder on my mpx, makes a HUGE difference in reload time. I Highly recommend it!

Can you get to the match early and squeeze off some rounds? This is allowable at one of the clubs I go to, I've found it helpful. Another option might be a SIRT pistol, get to the match early and run a few transition drills, next closest thing to live fire. I've found myself making most of my mistakes on the first stage, I assume everyone else is running "cold", would hope it would even the playing field, some guys are so consistent it doesn't seem to matter for them.

If they notice a squib, they most certainly should stop you as a matter of range safety. They should be focused on YOU, not on the targets outside catching any failures to engage / range malfunctions. Tough to do in a larger match, but if a shooter thinks they have a squib they aught to stop and hope for a re-shoot.

I wanted to use a sub gun as my home defense weapon. Wasn't sure if it would be a 9mm SBR or .223 SBR. I ended up with two MPX's, one with an 8" barrel I use for competition. The other is nearly the same configuration I use in USPSA except with a 4.5" barrel, suppressor. and heavier trigger. Running P9HST2 147gr JHP's (subsonic). I feel immensely more confident handling the platform after shooting PCC in USPSA. I've made some modifications to my competition rig I probably wouldn't make on my defense gun. I.e. I feel better with a slightly heavier trigger for a defense rig, 2-3lb triggers might be to light when the adrenaline is flowing!

Comes down to the magwell size for me. I have an AR 9mm that takes glock mags, Sig MPX with flared mag well, and standard AR-15. The MPX is my USPSA PCC gun, I'm typically a second or quicker on the reload. A little slower with the AR 9mm as it doesn't have a flared mag-well, AR-15 reloads are about the same for me.

If your MPX runs...it's close enough to AR controls, I'd start there. If you really want an AR in 9mm, you need to marry a barrel, upper, and lower together that presents the magazine at an appropriate angle / height for reliable feeding. I've seen to many barrel / upper / lower combinations that don't feed reliably. I have an New Frontier Armory upper/lower combo with QC10 barrel that works "best" for me. By "best" I mean it feeds round nose reliably, and has issues feeding hollow points 2-5% of the time. The JP's I've seen feed everything reliably, but they control the 3 key aspects for reliable feeding. The Radial Delayed Blowback by CMMG also feeds reliably from what I've seen (speaking based off of observations of friends guns), again, CMMG is controlling the 3 important components. In short, if you want it to be reliable, might be best to get an upper / lower / barrel that are from the same manufacturer with a record of reliable feeding. Franken-build your own combination at risk of unreliable feeding.

I've been considering the SIRT Bolt for PCC dry fire practice. Only thing I've been able to do with dry fire is practice my "draw". Outside that, running El Presidente style drills during live fire have been helping quite a bit with improving target transition. Keep it simple!

I've also got a NFA lower, shot several glock lowers from friends. I'll echo the biggest difference being the height / angle that the mag is presented to the chamber (prominent when compared to CMMG's radial delayed blowback glock lowers). The other half of the equation is the type / angle of chamfer on the chamber of the barrel you are using. For reliable feeding you need to marry the correct presentation angle / depth of the mag with the angle of the chamber. Makes or breaks reliable feeding, especially when you start using hollow point ammo. Had a lot of issues with my NFA lower feeding HP's until I got a quarter circle barrel.

Mehh, leave your zero where it's at, re-zero at 25yds, re-zero at 50yds, it doesn't matter. As others mentioned, it's all preference. What is the closest shot you expect? What's most important is that you understand where your zero at, and what adjustments you need to make for point of aim depending on distance to target. If your closest target is 10yards, and furthest is 50yds, zeroing at 25yds sounds reasonable as the point of aim adjustment for your 10-50yd range won't be much. Regardless, pick something that works for you, understand your point of aim, and conceivably pick a zero that requires the least amount of thinking as you transition from close to far targets! Picking a mounting solution for your optic that keeps it closer to the rail (i.e. barrel) and as far back on your rail as possible always helps (simple trigonometry).

Wasted a bunch of time using VVN320, powder burns to quick for the MPX. My MPX's seem to like slower burning powder. Found the following is working really well for me: 4.5gr of VVN340 124gr Montana Gold JHP 1.13 OAL 132 PF The N320 had a real tight powder range where the gun would cycle reliably. With the N340 I've found I can go as low as ~3.8gr with the 124gr bullet and still cycle the gun (albeit subsonic) and run up to 5gr without being over pressure. I couldn't load subsonic 147gr bullets with N320 and reliably cycle the MPX.

Used a Sig Romeo 5 and Sig Romeo 7. They worked great, I liked the larger 30mm lense, but the Romeo 7 was a bit bulky. Switched to the Trijicon MRO with a low mount. I really like the 25mm objective lens paired with the large front lens, gets rid of the tube effect I'm used to and has a great viewable area. The 2moa dot doesn't bother me, plenty bright in the desert sun, and the optic has survived abuse so far. I highly recommend the MRO.

Has anyone gotten the stainless steel springer extended max release? Is it worth it?