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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

mpeltier

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Everything posted by mpeltier

  1. Why are you grinding the lip off the basepads?
  2. Well the phrase "Nothing else was changed" is pretty conflicting information to me, when later on you then say "I changed all those rifle parts to carbine" etc etc. I gotta agree with stlhead on this one. Ya kinda wasted our time not giving complete info.
  3. I had a feeling it was sarcastic. But it was a slow day and figured.....what the heck.... Lol
  4. Check the buffer detent. Be sure its not sticking up to far and catching or draging on the bottom of the bolt carrier.
  5. Yup. I always felt they discontinued the wrong one.
  6. Kurt, the most important considerations concerning batteries (in no particular order) are: Freshness Origin Mha (mili amp hour rating) I have found localy that most of the batteries I use in optics and flashlights arent so common as to be turned over enough to not loose power on the shelf. Batteries start loosing power from the day their made. I get mine from various on line retailers with high turnover like batteries.com I prefer USA, and Japanese made. In that order when possible. Ive had varried luck with chinese batteries and avoid them when possible. Mha is where you get your run time. Bigger the number the better. 1600mha is going to last longer than 1400mha. For flashlights this is a big one. I have found Surefire, Streamlight and Panasonic to have the most runtime, in that order. For plane old alkaline and watch batteries Duracell have been the most consistant for me.
  7. For what they cost I think their made out of gold.......
  8. I have an original ancient 9L, as mentioned above. I wasn't aware there was a new model. I know S&W discontinued the 9L several years back, and I wasn't aware they had resumed making non-PRO longslide models. Yeah, they've mixed things up a bit. The current 9L is a ported, long slide, C.O.R.E. Performance center model. Same slide profile as the current pro. I really liked the shape of the original 9L slide. Wish they would have stuck with it.
  9. This is almost right. The OLD model 9L (which is somewhat uncommon) had a slight bevel to the muzzle end of the slide but was no thicker than the 9pro. The 40 might have been slightly thicker, I don't know for sure. Currently S&W sells a 9L and a 9Pro and the slides are the same dimension. (The use of the C.O.R.E mount with an optic being the relevant consideration)
  10. A front sight focus would most likely saved you that Mike. Just sayin
  11. I just started shooting carry optic, so im still learning the nuances of shooting an optic pistol. There is a learning curve. But very quickly I have realized with my aging eyes it is very benificial. I will use the "El Presidente" as an example. My average time is around 7 seconds with 2-3 charlies on average with iron sights. Same pistol (M&P 9L) with optic and only a few practice shots immeditely yeilded the same 7 second average with 100% Alphas. Im hooked.
  12. I would agree with Brian with one caveot. How easy does the pmag seat when empty? If its difficult than there is/are adjustments that can be made somewhere to allow more positive seating of the magazine. It they seat easily when empty, it is you not overcoming the normal spring pressure of a full magazine, or your booger hook is still on the mag button when your trying to seat the fresh mag.
  13. Why not just use a wider front sight. I used a .125 on mine and it was about perfect.
  14. Visualization is only one componant of stage preperation. I broke it down into four elements or "points". I even went as far as making a card for my range bag with the four points written on it as a reminder. I posted this many years ago, so here it is again. Hopefully it helps some of you. 4 Points of stage prep 1-Solution 2-Choreograph 3-Rehearsal 4-Visualization For me it was a realization that my Visualization process was not defined enough. I had thought I was visualizing each stage but I was not "seeing the forest thru the trees" so to speek. I defined four elements to stage prep that are essential for me to "Burn it in" and it propelled my game to the next level in a big way. 1)solution:Find the most effective/efficient way for "Me" to shoot the stage. 2)Choreography:Determine exactly where every step/shot will be etc. 3)Rehersal:Walking the stage and seeing every detail you will need when you shoot it for real. 4)Visualization:Replaying the rehersal over and over until called to shoot. These four steps allow it to happen with out having to think about anything when the timer goes off. Prior to defining this process I was doing some of it but not all of it.
  15. At least you have a daylight sight. No way I would pay the cost to put new tritium in those. Around 400 bills.Pat Totaly agree with you Pat. Tritium (as it pertains to the TR24) is seriously over rated. I wish Trijicon would make a Tritium free version of the TR24 for less $$. Ive owned quite a few and every one has been the same. The tritium only takes over when its so dark its impossible to ID your target. A quality weaponlight is a better tool than the tritium in the TR24.
  16. on an AR15 all gas blocks vent excess gas out the front............Right behind the bullet.
  17. Lol. Doing that may at some point cause you to shoot it the wrong way yourself. And the better shooters probably could care less what your doing and arent watching you anyway. They have better things to do with their walk thru time.
  18. The OP's original question is specifically regarding the 5" pro model, and the coment on defining accuracy expectation is very valid. The earlier 1/18 bbls were not as consistantly accurate as current 1/10 bbls. However, if you label a pistol a " Pro" model, my opinion is it should be more accurate, have a better triger, sights etc. not just simply have a 3/4" longer bbl. My expectation of a "Pro" model would be to have better accuracy than a standard model and they simply do not.
  19. pistol or rifle it still applies except for the 1-4. Carry optics with something like a delta point pro or similar optic may be beneficial. You would need to look thru one to see if you can focus on it properly.
  20. Welcome to the world of optics. Its called "Refraction". The thicker the lens the more severe it will be. Building muscle memory so you look thru your glasses and see your sights exactly the same every time is what you should strive to achive. Oh... I almost hate to bring it up, but any tips on how to transition to the next target? Specifically, to keep the front sight focused while looking for the next target. It takes the old peepers a long while to swap from near to far and back to near. Unfortunately the best tip I can give you given your circumstances is to ditch the iron sights and get a low power 1-4 variable with daytime visible illumination. I wouldnt recomend an Aimpoint or similar non magnified optic due to their lack of an adjustable oculor. Wearing glasses with a prescription you absolurely will need an adjustable occular to get a focused reticle. With a scope like that adjusted for your eyes there is no need to focus back and forth between your sights and target, thay both will be in focus. Now for a small tip on transitions from a stationary shooting position. Once you have acquired your first target and properly mounted the rifle to your shoulder and acquired the proper sight picture, try not to move your upper body out of that perfect position while acquiring your next and subsequent targets. Move your eyes only and pivot at the waist to bring your sights into alighnment with your next target and eyes. Do not lift up your head or drop the rifle from your shoulder.
  21. Yeah. Those are good. I also use +1.5 readers but only need +1.0 for my shooting glasses, due to how much farther away the front sight is vs how much closer reading material is.
  22. What were your groups like before welding and recutting the new ramp angle? If any of my previous M&P's shot 1-3/4" groups with the factory bbl they would still be in my safe. Lol
  23. 300 yds and less I would recomend the circle dot fire dot. The BDC reticle is of no use that close. A 200 yd zero will allow you to hold dead on out to 250 and hold just a little high (top of a 10" target) at 300.
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