mpeltier

3" paint spot shot with 17 rds from 15 yards unsupported. Not very scientific but I never had a factory M&P bbl that would shoot that good. Rested at 25yds I was getting 5 shots into 2 1/2". The trigger no longer uses the shepherds hook to contact the sear. The back of the trigger bar behind the striker block lever hits a new part I will call the sear lever. The geometry seams to be better and more efficiant. The re-set is an interesting topic. It seems the old 1.0 had factory re-set's that were all over the place. My 4.25 has a terrific re-set, literally identical to the 2.0. My Performance center 5" has literally no perceptible re-set. We are issued the 4.25" 1.0 at work and have examined many. some have a good reset some not. The common denominator seems to be the shape of the trigger bar. The one in my performance center is different than the other two. Not sure its evident in the pictures of the frame, but its obvious in person. S&W may have changed the QC process to ensure better consistency. I see no other reason for the improved re-set.

The slide profile is identical to my performance center 5" without the holes. Except there is a relieved area just above the extractor. I have no good reason for it. The feed ramp is very different on the barrel (pictured to the left of the APEX bbl in the middle). It is the only meaningful change to the bbl I could see, but the bbl does fit the slide more precisely than the 1.0.

The sear in the 2.0 is identical to the one in my 4.25" 1.0. I do not believe it to be a pro or performance center sear as some speculated. No adjustable rear sight either. Normal run of the mill 3-dot. The silver portion of the frame is where I thought the recoil spring was rubbing. It is not.

I initially had some feed issues with my new 5" 2.0. The slide retracts with some difficulty compared to my other M&P's. With less than full power ammo feed reliability was spotty. 124 gr NATO rounds was no problem but ammo that was always 100% in my other M&P's was not reliable at first in the 2.0. Additionally the 2.0 was much softer shooting than my other two. I believe that its related and may be by design. After a whole bunch of inspecting and measuring it seems that the slide dimension tapers on the inside where it rides on the frame rails. Both slides I measured are .785" at the rear and the 2.0 tapers to .773" at the front. The 1.0 slide is .785" the entire length. The 2.0 slide also has larger molded nubs in front of the forward slide rails. Larger than the 1.0 by .030". It still has more resistance when working the slide after about 300 rounds but it has not malfunctioned in the last 100 rounds. Accuracy is very good for a factory M&P. Its far from APEX grade accuracy, but its the best out of the box M&P I have owned and I've owned a few, LOL. It is not however accurate enough in my opinion to meet the Army requirement. This and the fact its not nearly as modular as the P320 is my guess as to why it failed the Army tests.I will post some side by side pictures.

Well, I think I got it sorted. Ill post some photos and a little info in the existing thread on the 2.0 so as not to get another 2.0 thread started.

Just recieved my 2.0 5" and right away the slide felt much harder to retract than my other two M&P's. Especially the last 3/8". Lubed it and shot several hundred rounds and had many failures to feed and also many failures to lock back on empty mag. I dissasembled and inspected and it appears the flatwire guiderod spring is rubbing on the inside of the dustcover where theres a little ledge about 3/8" from the takedown lever. The front of which is completely silver now not fde from bieng rubbed on. As it wears realiability has improved. Have any 2.0 owners had this experiance? All my previous M&P's have been boringly reliable. And this one is superbly accurate from the factory. I hate to send it back.

Have you checked headspace of the bolt to bbl extension? Only two things I know of can cause this if factory ammo gives the same symptoms. Case shoulder (usually just reloads), tight chamber or tight headspace of bolt. Not a magazine issue.

To answer your question, yes you can make match quality ammo on a progressive press. I use a Dillon XL650 and have shot groups as small as .43" at 100yds with my Krieger barreled AR. Easily achive 1" groups when I do my part. Now, theres always three parts to shooting groups that small, the rifle, the ammo and the shooter. If ones not up to the task it may be difficult to obtain your goal.

Ive owned both the Leupold VX-6 and the Z6i and the Leupold is lighter. Ultimately I prefered the Leupold and sold the Z6i.

Kestrel 5500 with Link. I have one a few years old with out the Link, as it was not available then. Check them out on Kestrels website. The Link feature connects it to your iPhone to input info.

What pattern choke tube does the MKA use?

Ive worn out a few parts over the years but the only actual part ive had break was a chargehandle latch. The hook sheared right off in the middle of a stage. It didnt ruin the stage as the rifle kept running, but the chargehandle moving a bit was distracting. It was a cheap one that came in a parts kit.

site doesnt let me know it posted

Edit feature wont let me delete extra posts?

I was issued the berreta for 5 yrs and the only virtue it had was accuracy. Two years ago we switched to the M&P9 and I couldnt be happier. I believe the P320 is a goid choice for the military. The issues I had with the M9 are, The safety/decocker Grip size/shape 2 broken locking blocks Heavy to carry for 12hrs day Da/Sa trigger I really disliked the M9 and do not miss it at all. My preferance for lighter striker fired pistols seems to run parralel to the new military standard for sidearms. Im sure the P320 will be liked better than the M9.

Only reason I can think of is that I personally have not found 62 gr very accurate in any of my AR's. Always have found 55 or 75 to give me best results. If you can come up with a load that gives you satisfactory accuracy, go for it.

Kurt, would it have the same effect on a gas operated shotgun?

Yeah the non suppressor pro comp would be worth $59.00.

Surefire break is very expensive and unless you plan on using their suppressor with it, its money out the window. Most breaks out there are extremely effective, especially if used in conjunction with a low mass bolt carrier and an adjustable gas block. Used as a system they make a very soft shooting AR. used individually the returns are there but minimal. The Mikulec is still the best break for the money.

Keep a couple things in mind also, the Colt and the stretch16 gun will always be apples and oranges. You will have to accept they will always be different in recoil (perceived or real). The weight difference and the barrel length and gas system length are big contributors to the equation. Also be careful with the adjustable gas block on the 16" bbl. theres a smaller operating window of reliability when you fine tune it compared to a 18" rifle gas bbl.

The stock may be a contributing factor as well. Switch stocks if you can, and try it.

I zero'd my 1919 2" high at 80 yards and figure I can hold dead on all the way to 100. Checked pattern at 10 and 20 yds and its dead on center with the dot.

Im still scratching my head. I have the same pistol, bbl, optic combination. Hundreds of rounds and no issues.

The AL carrier will probably wear out from contact with the bolt long before the buffer tube imparts any appreciable wear to it. Your definately overthinking it.

I use the no longer made Progressive machine Titanium bolt handle on my M2. Why? Because I love Titanium....its magical. All my 3-gun guns have some. It makes my guns shoot straighter, more reliable and the timer goes slower. It also makes my beard look fuller, tattoos more vibrant, and whisky is much smoother. (Actually I dont have a beard, only one tattoo and I dont drink whisky. The rest is true). ?