perttime

Bubberizing?

That's the grips I have, or at least they look exactly the same. For me, it is tight enough that getting a Safariland Comp 3 to release is sometimes a struggle.

I have it easy because there's just one brand of powder that always seems to be accessible to me. Their data is available for free, and I've always found a reasonable starting point there. They might not list the exact bullets that I have, but extrapolating from the nearest equivalent has always got me usable loads.

If running long enough to get some speed, the gun is in one hand, and I just mind that it is well inside the safe sector. When shooting is imminent, gun is up and between my eyes and the target (where ever the target might be).

Unless your hands are too big for the 19, you'll be as comfortable with it as you are with the 17.

What grips do you guys use on GP100s, to clear speedloaders?

Old School Open: singlestack, comps, no optics.

Cannot stand wasting stuff. I was starting to accumulate empties in 38 Special and 357 Mag, and needed a use for them.

You can see the sight lift even if it isn't going straight up.

All I've ever seen people run through CZ mm pistols is 124/125 grain round nose. Either factory rounds or factory length reloads. I believe that is 29.0 mm or 1.142 inch. At least they always seem to feed.

VV availability can depend on where you are.

Wimps...

What kind of hammer and spring? How do you clean your brass? I recall one time when I had a dud, probably caused by moisture remaining in the brass.

Vihtavuori powders are the most accessible ones for me, so they are all I've ever used. Their data is the go-to reference when I want to load anything. Usually, I check a paper copy, or the latest PDF file of their Reloading Guide. They might not list my exact components, but I've always found at least a reasonable starting point.

Different gun/barrel, different bullet, probably different primer and case. I haven't seen information about the ambient temperature they have during testing or how far from muzzle they take the measurement. Everything makes a difference. I'm sure their velocities are actual numbers from tests.

I'm sure the Classic is a good singlestack pistol. The grooves in the front are just so ugly that I cannot see myself buying one.

One of the things that Brian repeats in his books is: Practice doesn't make perfect. Practice makes permanent. Before doing too many repeats, see that you are NOT teaching yourself anything that is highly detrimental. Doing it slowly first lets you observe your movements in more detail than doing it fast.

What kind of tape? Just snug, not actually pressing down?

CZ75 (9mm)

Small. Just like 357 Magnum. for example: http://www.vihtavuori.com/en/reloading-data/handgun-reloading/-38-special-.html

What you are trying to hit makes a difference too. Hitting the A zone of IPSC size paper targets at 300m using 6X seems easy to me. At 1.5X I have to pay attention at that distance. More magnification for smaller targets or aiming zones.

That's what I was taught during my conscript service, using "much improved AKs" and 30 round magazines. Works great with Steyr AUG with 30 round magazines too - and the AUG front grip gets me a second point on the ground, in addition. (Haven't had a chance to handle an AR recently)

Would squeezing the magazine in a clamp do any good? (I have a couple of singlestack magazines that usually don't drop free and cause malfunctions on the last round.)

Your arms cannot be TOTAL mirror images if you are trying to grip as high as possible. The left wrist will be higher and angled more thumb forward. That puts the forearms at a different position. Most seem to do best when they are NEAR mirror image, within limits, letting the arms absorb recoil equally. The frame of a Glock is pretty light, so ammunition and how you grip it can have a big influence on how it behaves on recoil and how it ejects.

Which requires real running water and real bathrooms with real flush toilets...... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Composting_toilet