perttime

I've used N310 in 38 Special and even in 357 Magnum cases. Works well - as long as you don't let yourself get confused and put in a double or triple load. I'm sure I still have an old data booklet that has those loads.

For some reason, Vihtavuori no longer lists N310 loads for 38 Special, even for LWC, in their latest material? I might go with N320, instead.

What kind of pistol and load do you use? I've cured my blinking a couple of times by shooting something very mild. I had a break from shooting some time ago, and then the first thing I shot was full house 357 Magnum. Bad idea. It took me a few sessions with lower power to cure the blink I got from the flash/bang/blast.

Try to remember where the targets are and pick one way, whether it is ideal or not. One of the more interesting stages that I have been trough was a Finnish IPSC-style contest for military reservists. They had managed to set up a stage along a woodland trail so that you couldn't see any targets from the starting point. No walkthrough allowed: follow the trail and shoot all the targets you can find... The kind of targets to look for was specified. I recall there were USPSA style paper targets and a few poppers.

You are talking "tactical" shooting and not contest? If you are that close, chances are the assailant has a hand on your pistol too. I'm not sure if gunsmiths still do it, but I recall some tactical 1911 mods, way back, with a shield in front of the slide to prevent going out of battery. My brain is showing me a close up photo where there are small sharp cones on the shield to prevent slipping...

That is a target shooting mission. Try it with one shot at a target of known size, at unknown distance - and your rangefinder is broken.

But are they actually accurate? I like the price and the features - but in the one review that I've read, they tried a good number of different factory loads in 308 and there was only one that would stay sub-MOA. I've shot a few old-fashioned rifles that would do sub-MOA with just about any decent ammo (a couple of target/sniper style rifles and a pretty plain Tikka deer rifle).

The space inside doesn't even have to be all that large if you use scaled down targets.

I have truly grown to hate this cliche, even more so when preceded by "slow is smooth". .. OK, I'll give you an other one: "Take your time quickly." There may be people who can instinctively get a pistol on target quickly ,the first time they get one in their hands. Many seem to benefit from starting - let's call it - "deliberate", so that they can actively eliminate wasted movement.

Smooth is fast. For us who are not yet fast, getting smooth is a step in that direction. Starting at "deliberate", instead of "warp", speed can help with getting smooth.

I'm not dumb enough to make conclusions about climate, based on one year - let alone one day. +3 Celsius daytime high today. Snow is becoming thick porridge.

I've used N320 and a few other Vihtavuori powders through my Dillon SDB. Meters very well.

My bike is loud - for a mountain bike. (Hope hubs...) Love it.

Some of my 7 round mags had multiple trouble: not feeding the first round, not locking the slide back, and not dropping free. Squeezing the top end of the mags in a vise fixed it - at least for some time.

When I got my first handgun, I included bullseye type matches and Silhouette in my requirements - and got a revolver in 357 Magnum...

Just small molded pieces of blue plastic. There's a hole for the locator button to go through, in the thin part - and a little something in the other end, so that you can grip it and lift the pin out easily. On the Dillon site, 1050 conversions seem to have them in the small parts bag. https://www.dillonprecision.com/rl1050-super1050-misc-conversion-parts_8_51_25632.html ... but using those tabs leaves the case slight room to move - too much at the priming station of my OLD SDB. Maybe that is why you didn't get them. The SDB video doesn't show them either: https://www.dillonprecision.com/dillon-square-deal-b_8_1_25237.html

You trained your finger to be crooked and down for reloads. Now you need to train it to be straight and up. It can be good to find some "key" on the frame or slide. Perhaps the seam between frame and slide, that you want to touch any time that you are not firing the pistol. Repeat a few thousand times in dry firing...

Glad you haven't had the problem yet, but it is much more than possible - happens quite a bit. Have to keep an eye out for it. I check my primers when I reload my mags - make sure the primer is there, not too tall, and definitely not already dimpled (fired). Maybe I'm lucky. I haven't kept records and don't load and shoot quite as much as some do. But a pretty good number of rounds have come out of my SDB. The primer problems that I've encountered have been failures to feed new primers when switching to another caliber. There was a time when I was making do with one primer slide for 3 calibers, and needed to adjust everything when switching. Also, the case needs to be pretty accurately in place at the priming station. At some stage, I decided that it is better to leave the tab off the pin that holds the case in the shell plate.

I think it is pretty noticeable on my Square Deal B if anything weird is going on at the priming station. But I tend to take my time and pay attention when I'm around primers and powder. Mine has never failed to deprime but I suppose it is possible.

Did you figure it out?

A 30 rounder should be a good length to use as a monopod for a solid low prone position.

I'm not sure how wide spread that kind of thing is in IPSC - but here the IPSC Region requires that participants go through lessons on the rules, focusing on safety, and some closely monitored practice. Then you do an exam on the rules and some short stages as a practical exam to prove that you can shoot without being DQd. That puts you in a database for "safe shooters".

Of course the muscles don't remember anything. But your mind can remember the position and feel of your limbs when the sights are aligned. Dry firing should help. See where your sights tend to appear when you draw. If there's some consistency there, move your feet to get them aligned on the target and see what happens when you draw again. If you can get a sight picture while keeping your eyes closed during the draw, move your feet to get that alignment on target. Then your eyes have less work to refine the alignment.

I'm pretty sure the 650 priming system is adjustable. Are you sure it is adjusted correctly for 45?