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Vmax606

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About Vmax606

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    Hao Pham

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  1. If they are coated bullets, and all you want are the brass and the primers, then it's a lot quicker just to run the rounds through the sizing die with the decapping pin removed, the brass spring back out but not the lead bullets, I did that and I could just pull the bullets out by hands, it's a lot quicker and a lot less messy.
  2. Reshape the decapping pin, make it a little more pointed.
  3. Check the over travel screw, make sure it's not in too far. .
  4. Put a layer of tape on the hammer surface, cycle the slide and press down on the hammer. Is the "CLICK" still there? If not then either the sear nose or the hammer hooks are a little too long. Not sure about the light strikes problem.
  5. Actually this maybe the die that he needs to use for the thick brass so it would not size the brass too much and cause the bulge. Sorry about being touchy, but just because I know FOR SURE what causes the problem. The die he has now may be correct for most of the brass, but it is too small for that particular brand of brass so that is why I suggested a bigger die if he wants to use that thick brass (CBC, Tula and a few others). .
  6. So, What have you figured out about the problem that the OP has ? What causes it ? Because he still has the same problem. .
  7. Whatever ! I have been shooting for over 30 years and over half a million rounds and that is what I have found. BTW, crimp DOES NOT prevent set back, neck tension does. To the OP : Go find a sizing die that is .002" bigger than the die you have now, your problem WILL go away, if not I will pay for it.
  8. The problem is your sizing die is a little undersized, measure it against the Redding die that you have, you will see that the Redding die is a hair bigger, and in your case the U die will make it even worse, not all dies are EXACTLY the same size, that is why I have 2 different sizing dies for my press. You can not use the same sizing die for everything, if your die works with thick brass and .356 bullets, then it will not work with thin brass and .355 bullets because of not enough neck tension, and if it works with thin brass and .355 bullets, then you will have bulged case wit
  9. There is a HUGE difference between BROKEN barrel lug and BLOWN APART barrel AND slide. .
  10. The only bad thing is that these later ones they lowered the feed ramp and flared out the chamber mouth, but they overdid it and removed a lot of case support, I bought some from CDNN at the beginning of the sale and they did not have it done and I really like it, but can not find them like that anymore.
  11. From what I read, you have a Dillon Square Deal B press, if that is true then there is NO Lee undersized die for it. But do this, push on the underside of the #1 (sizing die) and see how much it moves up and down, if it moves too much, you can make a shim (look like a washer) out of the primer tray sleeve and put on top of the die to reduce the upward movement, and make the case go up further in the die. Also lubing the cases before sizing will help with the process and easier on your elbow, just have to do some cleaning of the completed rounds that's all. .
  12. As suggested in previous post, paint the round with magic marker and find out where the high spot is. Is it the bullet or the brass that caused the problem.
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