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Vmax606

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    Hao Pham

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  1. REALLY ???? How much do you want to bet that I can hit an 8" gong at 30 yards with just about any decent guns, right out of the box after sighting it in ? (.22 Jenning excluded) .
  2. Yup, that is about all it takes to hit an 8" target at 30 yards. If you have problem hitting it, work on your trigger pull because it is the most important factor in accurate pistol shooting. You can have a super accurate gun, proper stance, correct aiming, but you ain't gonna hit it if you yank the trigger and dip the gun right before it goes bang (called Flinching). The best way to learn the proper trigger pull is with a revolver, load 2 live rounds randomly along with 4 spent shells, keep the sight on target and make sure it doesn't dip on an empty shell, and try not to blink or you won't see it. .
  3. I do not shoot 9mm, but this is what I know. From many Bullseye shooters : 115 gr HAP or Zero bullets and 6gr of Power Pistol. This is what Wilson Combat uses to test their guns : 125 gr JHP (forgot the brand) and 5.2gr of Power Pistol. I guess you can try both and see which bullet weight your gun prefers. .
  4. Guess I'm too much of an animal lover, because there is nothing I hate worse than looking at something like Kentucky Derby, I would always be like " How about you get your asses off the horses and run down the track yourself ". They get glorified by getting something else doing all the hard work. Always wish someone would round up them jockeys, whip the crap out of them and see how fast they can run. .
  5. There is a very simple to check if the link is too short. (main cause for broken link or link pin). Remove the slide stop, then put the cross pin back in and leave the rest of the SS swinging. Press the muzzle down on the floor and keep pressure on it, the SS should swing freely , if not the link is too short for the application. NOTE : If your gun has full length dust cover, make sure only the barrel is pressed and not stopped by the dust cover. .
  6. I ran into this situation before, and the explanation is ?? A few years ago when primers and powder were hard to find, I bought 10K of Tula LEAD FREE SP primers (that was all they have left) at the local gun show . They were working fine during the summer in my 38 Super, but when the winter approached the load became very erratic , some shots were normal and some were very weak. To confirm that, I went home and loaded couple hundred of the same rounds but with CCI primers and they all shot OK. Called their headquarter the next day and told them the story, they gave me 2/3 of the money back and let me kept the primers, still have a few hundred of them sitting around after selling most of them during the next summer to the local combat match shooters, and during that time they were happy to find any primers that go bang.
  7. To get 1.5lb pull, you have to set the sear spring fairly light, so make sure the sear can move freely and clear of the disconnector when the slide moves back.
  8. "How much side play ?" Only about .002" or .003". Also, remove the grip safety but put everything else back in place and do this: Hold the trigger back and pull the slide back, look and make sure the disconnector drops down below the sear feet with at least .002" clearance, a piece of paper is about .003" thick. Anyway, this is how it suppose to go : You pull the trigger, the gun goes Bang, the slide goes back and presses the disconnector down below the sear feet, that releases sear so it can swing back and catches the hammer. .
  9. Also, a trigger kit was put in . What's in a trigger kit ?
  10. Make sure the sear has a little side play in the frame. Happened to me one time when I installed a new sear , it was moving freely but no play and the hammer would follow sometimes. Took the sear out and ran it over a piece of sand paper about 10 times, problem solved. .
  11. A guy walked in the LGS, asked to look at a 1911, the clerk handed him the gun, he fondled the gun a little then reached in his pocket, pulled out a loaded mag and inserted it then robbed the store. (true story). .
  12. At a rest stop on the interstate. _ Hey, how are you doing ? _ Oh not bad _ So anything new ? _ Oh just taking a week off and do some sight seeing _ Busy right now ? _ Oh not really. _ Can I come over ? _ Ah, why do you want to do that ? _ Hey, I'll call you back in a little bit , there is a damn guy in the next stall keeps answering my questions. .
  13. To OP : Go to 1911 forum and post this pic, there are quite a few top notch gunsmiths over there and see what they say, but to me the feet are not correctly cut, the ink at the 2 very tips of the feet should be gone, and the ink at the corner of the curvy part right below the feet should still be there. Right now it looks like the curvy part of the feet is what stopping the barrel from going forward, instead of the bottom of the feet, and that would make the lock up very inconsistent Well, at least that is how Kart said it should be. OK, the simple way to say it is : If you hold the barrel right side up, with the muzzle to the left, the pin should contact the barrel feet at 12 and 3 o'clock. To be perfect, it should be all the way from 12 to 3 but that is very tough to be accomplished , so they normally leave a gap at 1 and 2 , but it must have contact at 3 o'clock which your barrel does not have. .
  14. The major factor that determines the life of the buffer is the contact surface of the spring tunnel, if it is thick and flat the buffer will last longer. If your gun has a heavy barrel and uses the reverse spring plug, the back of the spring tunnel has to be milled out so the plug can slide in, that will make the contact surface thinner and that will chew up the buffer faster.
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