4n2t0

Use lead data and make sure you flare the case mouth enough so it doesn't scrape the coating when seating.

The case is getting stuck in the station one locator. https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/244675-xl650-cases-getting-stuck-tipped-in-station-1-locator/

You shouldn't have any problem finding tons of data, just use Red Dot data by weight.

The easy fix for primer suck-back would be to change the shape of the pins tip with sandpaper.

It all depends on the bullets ogive. Even two bullets with the same general construction can/will have different ogives. Assume all the bullets below are 147's, see how the ogive changes slightly. That small difference might make the bullet hit the rifling sooner.

Take that dummy round and do this with your barrel: The seating die does crimp, here are the instructions that came with your dies and an excerpt: https://leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/Pistol3.pdf "Raise the ram to the top of its stroke and hold.Screw bullet seating die in until it touches the shell holder, then back it out three full turns. Lightly finger tighten the lock ring. Bullet depth is adjusted by screwing the adjusting screw in or out to suit. Bullets should be seated deep enough to work through the gun’s action. See maximum overall length on charge table. If crimp is desired, screw die in slightly and test until proper crimp is formed." Here's a video giving you a general idea of how the combo seat/crimp die works: As previously mentioned, you don't actually want to apply a crimp, just take out the flare. A pulled bullet should only show a very light (to no) crimp line. Way too much:

https://forums.brianenos.com/search/?&q=n310&author=MoNsTeR&search_and_or=or

Whew, thank goodness, I run Shadows so I'm glad I'm one of the lucky ones that "get it" "LOL"

If CCI fixed the problems years ago someone should tell my revolvers... You can call it primer sensitivity (instead of hardness) if it makes you feel warm and fuzzy inside but there are definitely real world differences between primer brands.

Way too much thought put into such a simple process. Seat them as short as the barrel requires, done, lol.

Still one of the hardest...

I'm not sure what's so "difficult" about loading 147's, seat them as short as the barrel requires, done.

Well done, nice shooting!

If you have a hoard of .38 special brass then you have a hoard of short colt brass once trimmed.

https://www.doublealpha.biz/ca/mr-bulletfeeder-conversion-kit

https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/271129-9mm-crimp-die-adjustment-needed/?tab=comments#comment-3018138

I've learned that just because someone has been doing something for a long time doesn't mean they've been doing it right.

Why did you back off the die "just a hair"? Is that what the Dillon die instructions tell you to do?

Hodgdon gave you a "cover their ass" response. As long as you're within the charge range provided in the data you can safely load as short as necessary. I load a plated bullet to 1.09 for my Shadow. As always, start at the minimum charge weight and work your way up. Additional information: https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/271170-col-for-147-plated-round-nose/?tab=comments#comment-3018565 https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/271129-9mm-crimp-die-adjustment-needed/?tab=comments#comment-3018138

You should load it all. If something presents a problem then discard it the next go around.

So that a jig can be attached for anodizing. I'm not sure why the call them accessory mounting holes.

I've never used a Udie and everything still works .

Yes and yes.

The 2-in-1 die will have value if for some reason you need to combine the seat and crimp functions, most do not.

It has a very distinct sound and feel but it can be hard to stop when you're juiced and going full speed. Sometimes it can be misinterpreted as a general malfunction by less experienced shooters so you get the inevitable tap, rack, boom.