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4n2t0

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Everything posted by 4n2t0

  1. 4n2t0
    It implies no such thing. No one's foregoing anything. Look into the case and use a powder check die to help you not screw up because last time I checked we are still human.
  2. 4n2t0
    Normal.
  3. 4n2t0
    Problems which pale in comparison to potentially blowing off your fingers! lol. OP: I'm not sure why so many avoid a powder check die but I would gladly sacrifice individual seat/crimp functions in favour of an added safety measure. Eyeing each case is good but eyeing each case and using a powder check die is better. You can never be too safe.
  4. 4n2t0
    I'm curious as well because my 4.0gr load of N320 works well in my 66.
  5. 4n2t0
    Titegroup's very accurate in 9mm (and it's cheap!) but there are some negatives (snappy?, dirty on the low end, smokey w/ lead, makes the gun hot etc.). For 9mm you'll get all the usual recommendations: Titegroup, N320, Prima V, E3, Clays, WST (another of my favourites), American Select, HP-38/W231, Unique, WSF and more. Some of these powders are more versatile than others and if you're loading for multiple calibres that may factor into your decision making process.
  6. 4n2t0
    Be careful?! lol. OR Get a powder check die and combine the seat and crimp functions (I'll never load for pistol without one).
  7. 4n2t0
    The short answer is that one's a plated bullet. If you want to see something cool try lead>coated>plated>FMJ.
  8. 4n2t0
    You keep saying that but what the builder recommends means very little, especially if/when you decide to load a different bullet. I'm not sure why they even recommended an OAL, OAL's should be found not recommended.
  9. 4n2t0
    The correct answer is that your barrel should always determine the max OAL for a given bullet (new bullet/barrel combo, new OAL). Once you know that figure you can shorten the OAL should you choose to do so.
  10. 4n2t0
    Fair enough. Good luck with the decision making, I'm sure more experienced ICOREers will jump in shortly and provide you with better information. Cheers!
  11. 4n2t0
    Which means you have a lot of SC's waiting to be made, lol.
  12. 4n2t0
    I'm not an ICORE guy but wouldn't you want to shoot SC for speed? Also, I think the minimum PF for ICORE is 120. You should choose a press that will meet your goals. Starting on a single stage press is completely unnecessary unless that's the press you want based on your goals. Personally, pistol + volume = progressive.
  13. 4n2t0
    130 in a 4" barrel.
  14. 4n2t0
    Replacing time (drying) with time, effort and inconvenience (decapping prior to tumbling) isn't that great a solution. Even if the weather isn't being cooperative she can always bake them for a while on an old cookie sheet.
  15. 4n2t0
    I'm glad you figured it out. Some Federal NT (non-toxic) brass can be crimped, so you can continue to throw that brass away. It's summer time in Canada and with the warm weather we're having it only takes a few hours in the scorching hot sun to get that brass bone dry. Also, I wouldn't stop pre-priming your brass if that's what you like to do. I'm not sure why people think primers are so susceptible to contamination when they're being stored in normal conditions ?.
  16. 4n2t0
    I thought I had it covered, lol.
  17. 4n2t0
    This ^^^ must be a young person thing... Anyways, have a good life Drew. Cheers.
  18. 4n2t0
    I don't know what a "diss" is but we can leave it at reloading saves you money, period. P.S. I looks like you're the only one having a problem letting it go, lol.
  19. 4n2t0
    Most of us are long past the single stage stuff ?. You can reload for whatever reason you'd like but when you say it doesn't save you money that can only be because you're not doing it right. I have a lot of the cool toys too but I was able to recover my money within a year and a half and at the time I was only reloading 9mm. Everyone's situation is different. Cheers.
  20. 4n2t0
    Then you're not doing it right!
  21. 4n2t0
    Generally coated bullets only smell bad when the coating hasn't been cured properly.
  22. 4n2t0
    New bullet, new OAL. Your gun only "loves" the current OAL because the barrel/bullet/powder combination works. Since one of those factors are about to change you can ditch the idea of needing to keep the OAL the same. Change is good...............lol.
  23. 4n2t0
    When I test a powder for the very first time I always weigh out the charge by hand (not necessary but my OCD thinks otherwise). I want to see what the powder's capable of without the inconsistencies associated with a mechanical drop. I decap and prime the cases then trickle (I use a small piece of paper that I tap with my finger, lol) the charge onto the scale. Once I've filled all the cases I seat and crimp to complete the process. You can use the powder measure and +/- the charge on the scale but I prefer just tapping the powder until I get the desired weight. Always make more rounds than are actually required, that way you can double check the OAL's and discard (but shoot) those which are out too far from the test group. P.S. Remember, this type of thing is only for the super anal shooter, like myself, most people just load, chrono and call it a day.
  24. 4n2t0
    Flush if fine for most primers but some brands (especially S&B primers) need to be seated well. You can get Fiocchi primers locally from Western Metal. I'd suggest trying those primers, as they aren't as sensitive to depth but still cheap, and your "problem" should go away.
  25. 4n2t0
    If the slide isn't going into battery the round is probably too long for your Shadow (as previously suggested plunk the rounds to confirm). If it's a failure to feed then it could be a multitude of things.
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