Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Esquire

  • Rank
    Looks for Range

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. One that I experienced recently was when reloading heavy-for-caliber bullets in 9mm. Was loading 160+ grain cast bullets and had issues specifically with CBC (magtech) brass. Case walls are thicker on that brand of brass apparently and the bullet would cause a bulge that would prevent the round from going into a Lyman case gauge. So watch out for that when you're using mixed range brass. Wall thickness definitely varies and will cause problems. My case gauge is ever-so-slightly tighter than my chambers so I will gauge all my reloads that I anticipate using for competition. If they fit the gauge they will fit the chambers on my guns then they are good to go. Depending on how chamfered your cylinders are, make sure and crimp enough but not too much. As a newb reloader I made the mistake of not using enough of a roll crimp on .38 loads, for instance, and it was a frustrating day at the steel match trying to get that poorly crimped ammo that I had moon-clipped to drop in the chamber. Speaking of crimp, and others will have varying opinions on this, I don't think you need much crimp on .38 and 9mm stuff if you're holding the gun properly and putting some thought into your powder/bullet selection to minimize recoil. On magnum rounds, sure. .38 and 9mm? Nah. But, I do get more consistent velocities with a little more crimp, so there's that. And if I'm being honest I still occasionally get distracted by something and forget to seat a primer and the case makes it all the way around and even gets a bullet seated and then I see the powder after the round falls in the tray. That's certainly nothing unique to reloading for revolvers. It's aggravating as hell, though.
  2. Oh is that what you were doing? Since I didn't in any way, form, or fashion suggest that because Jerry does it that way that it's the best way, I just thought you were typing things for the pleasure of reading your own response. I understand now, though. You're the self-proclaimed "'go-to' guy for revolver advice, tips and tricks." Sorry I didn't do a thread about how you load moons.
  3. Can you point out where I insinuated that pliers are the best way or that because Jerry does it that way it's the best way? I don't find that it takes an inordinate amount of time to clip them with the pliers. It's certainly no slower than the TK style of loader. And I already had the pliers. So I saved a nice little chunk of money. Thought others might want the same opportunity.
  4. That may well have been where I saw him doing it.
  5. I am doing the same thing. My old man even made me one of the tube type unloaders. He had some aluminum tube that was just a hair bigger inside dia. than a .38 spl and he notched it and put it in a red plastic handle of some sort he had bought several of at Home Depot. He’s one of the most resourceful and ingenious people I’ve ever known.
  6. It is I’m sure but I’ll be danged if I could go back and find which one it is out of all the clips I’ve watched of Miculek.
  7. Saw a video recently with Miculek and he was mooning some ammo while talking about whatever it was he was talking about....he was using needle nose pliers. Don't know if that's always how he does it (I wouldn't be surprised) but I just thought it was interesting. I gave it a shot and it's actually pretty quick and there was no marring of the brass or the moon clips to speak of. So I probably won't be buying a tool and definitely am carrying needle nose pliers in the range bag now.
  8. Esquire

    S&W TR8 ?

    I just started shooting steel challenge this year and bought an M&P R8 (basically the same gun as the TRR8) for Steel Challenge after I shot my first match. Shooting it iron sights so far and I like it. Very accurate. I've experienced the same issues with the finish scratches/wear as earlier posters mentioned with a kydex Speed Beez holster. Love the gun, though. Thinking about putting a red dot on it but haven't decided for sure yet. Miculek shoots or did shoot one for Steel Challenge that was chambered in .38 Super, if I recall correctly.
  9. I'm still new to competitive shooting. Really new. But I'm shooting revolvers. I think I do it because in my mind it's harder to shoot revolvers well than just about any other handgun. Why do you guys shoot wheelguns in competition?
  10. Hey guys, just getting into the competitive game. I have a Smith M&P R8 that I'm shooting Steel Challenge with right now in .38 Spl. I anticipate doing some USPSA, and ICORE mostly with the R8 but occasionally with a Glock 34. When I shoot USPSA and ICORE with the R8, I plan on shooting .38 Short Colt. I've been hoping to find a bullet mold that might pull double duty for 9mm and .38 SC. The throats on the R8 slug at ~.357" all the way around, the barrel at .355" Thinking that either the Saeco 928 or the Lyman 356637 will throw a bullet that can be used in the R8 without sizing and in a 9mm after sizing, depending on how it throws. The Lyman concerns me a little because of the flat point and reloading with moon clips in a revolver but I may be getting lost in the weeds. I'd probably go with the Lyman if you all think it would work just because the 4 cavity Lyman is substantially cheaper than the 4 cavity Saeco. Y'all got any thoughts?
  • Create New...