Dranoel

Best way to keep the ammo sorted is to use only brass for 45ACP and nickel plated for 45 Super. I do that with 38 Super. Brass for my lower power carry loads and nickel for hot competition loads.

To my fellow Veterans: You don't need my thanks. Nor I yours. WE understand what we did and what we sacrificed for our country. This is why a veteran never says to another veteran, "Thank you for your service." Often a knowing nod is all we give or get. BECAUSE we understand. And when civilians say it to me, I respond, "It was my honor and duty to serve. No thanks necessary." I MEAN that. I know my fellow veterans understand that too. To my civilian friends: I thank you for your support and appreciation of ALL our Veterans. What we dealt with and went through, you cannot possibly understand, but we did it for YOU. We did it for ALL of us. So when you say it to a Veteran, be sincere, or don't say it. We have come to expect that people don't really appreciate it and we're ok with that. But we LOVE the people who sincerely DO appreciate that we did what they could not.

I know I have stated this here before, (and a dozen other forums, fb groups, etc.) but since the question come up again and again.... here goes again: What brand of oil you use is less important as getting the proper viscosity for YOUR pistol. What I use in mine may be HORRIBLE in yours. Allow me to explain; Some guns are tighter than others. Some guns have rougher rail contact than others (that gritty feel like dragging a whetstone across another. The tighter and smoother your gun is the lower viscosity oil you need. If you have something like a Les Baer that's as tight as a gnat's arse and smooth as greased glass, using a higher viscosity (thicker) oil is going to slow your slide action when you fire. This is because the oil is too thick to move in the tight confines of those close tolerance rails. In some cases (and I have experienced this on my own guns) the slide will hydraulic and stop before it goes back far enough to extract the spent case. And I have had pistols so loose that 90 wt. gear lube would have been a good idea. You may have a gun that is not a rattle trap but not so tight a fit. A little heavier (higher viscosity) oil is going to serve you better as the oil is essentially "floating" the slide on the frame rails. In other words you don't want the metal touching any more than it has to. A lighter oil in this case is going to run out of the gap or not provide enough "bouyancy", for lack of a better word, to float the slide properly. By the same token, a slide/frame fit that is fairly tight but a little gritty (because of machining marks left unpolished) will need a heavier oil to keep those micro-burrs from hitting each other. It's much the same in car engines. Most of your basic production car engines are fine with 10W40. (10W30 or 5W40 in winter for easier starts) when you get into more precisely made engines, Jaguar, BMW, Mercedes, etc they recommend lower viscosity oil. My '06 Lincoln LS, engine by Jaguar, uses 5W20. ANd I can tell you for a fact that putting 10W30 in it is a bad idea. (don't ask me how I know.) On the other hand, if you have a 1980 Chevy Citation with 300,000 miles on it (you deserve an award) you prob'ly need at least a 5W50-10W50 or a bottle or two of motor honey to stop it from smoking. Same is true of auto-pistols. That slide is operating in very similar conditions as the pistons in your engine. So, here is where you NEED to be TOTALLY HONEST. Not with me or anyone else, but with yourself. IS your pistol that tight? IS it really that smooth? If it is Remoil might be perfect. It's what I used for years til they changed it. But if it is even a LITTLE loose, you might want to experiment with some heavier oils. Lately I been trying Brian's Slide Glide BECAUSE it comes in three different viscosities. My 1911s have been even better with the "Light" Slide Glide, while my CZ and Berettas tend to like the "Medium" better. But you are going to have to find what works best in YOUR guns. All the more reason to go shooting more often.

Good thing I saved those boxes and trays. Now I can repackage them as Factory blems and sell for $25/500.

The box was actually packed with paper around the individual boxes. I pulled it out to show the loose bullets at the bottom. But I took the pics specifically to send to Xtreme. Being the weekend, no one is there to get the e-mail yet. BTW: I don't usually deal with Xtreme either, but Berry, Missouri, Widner's, RMR and everyone else is out of stock on almost everything. Xtreme said these were in stock and I grabbed them before the disappeared.

Let me guess, order was delivered by USPS? Just got an order from Xtreme Bullets on friday.

Nothing "Wrong" with the stock, but it won't work on a rifle buffer tube. I'll likely get the rifle version of it. If I sell the buttstock I'll let you know. But it is essentially unused so I'm likely going to ask what I paid for it.

After many 1911 builds I decided to try my hand at something new. So, I've had an idea percolating in my head for a while to build an AR10 based precision/sniper rifle. Did a lot of research to find the consensus on what the best quality components are and started making a list. Local gun shop carries Aero Precision so I started there, looking to get a stripped lower, parts kit, buffer tube, trigger (Hyperfire), upper receiver and bolt carrier group (Aero). The rest I ordered online: Palm shelf pistol grip (Ergo), buttstock (Luth AR), Handguard (Apex), Vortex Crossfire II 6x24x50 and a Burris mount. Salesman talked me into a complete lower as it would actually be cheaper than a stripped and all the parts. But it came with a Carbine buffer tube.. So now I need to change that to a rifle tube and get the appropriate Luth AR buttstock. So now it's all done except one minor detail. BSF says the barrel I ordered will take 4-6 weeks, But that gives me some time to change the buffer tube and do a little more trigger work. Can't wait to get it to the range and see how well it shoots.

I'm guessing the "paddles" on the grips are to make it Kommifornia legal?

That was pertinent need to know information.

You might want to check the locking lugs on your barrel and slide. If either has peened it may be preventing the barrel from rising up and locking in and there-by stoopping the slide from going into battery. Can you push the slide the rest of the way or does it stop dead there? If the extractor was the problem it should close fine on an empty chamber.

Half assed? Or Half fast?

There were other Hi-Cap 1911 frames at the time, including Para-Ordnance and Caspian. Not to mention the sudden interest in Tanfoglio. STI was the one that became popular. Because of the polymer grips.

I refused to depart from my iron sights for a long time and even swore that I would never go optic because I shoot on index primarily. Now that I'm getting old and my eyes are failing me, I have had to admit that optics DO make it better. Granted, I am still all about index, but when I go to confirm the sights on target, optics are faster.

I find it funny that the main reason people started shooting the Chip McCormick/Tripp Research/STI double stack was the hi-tech polymer gripframe and now everyone is looking to go with metal. Much as I liked the first ones that came out, I always had my reservations about the two-piece frame held together by 2 screws. I went the Caspian route and never had any doubts or regrets.

If you weren't there, you'll never get it. But there was a LOT of great music that came out of the 80s and a lot of bands that got their legs in the 80s. Sure some of it was immature. But bands like U2 went from cult following to superstar status. Sure there was a lot of juvenile disco progressive crap, but there was REAL music too.

Does this make you feel better?

Try Vasaline. Amazing! :P

.38 Super I built 8 yrs ago. Still runs flawlessly.

Then by all means delete it and put some lipstick on my arse.

Been using CMC Shooting Star for .45 for 25+ years, never had an issue with any of them. Just got 6 of the CMC Railed PowerMag, they functioned every bit as flawlessly as my Shooting Stars.

Mars?