Paul49

The cartridge is actually cocked slightly sideways, to the left. The nose is hung up on the left edge of the chamber mouth.

P80? Sounds like the initials for polymer 80, the 80% grip frame more recently sold for those who want to complete the build, add a slide and enjoy a pistol without a serial number. Just like a ghost AR lower.....

Was shooting a Gen 3 G35 first as limited and later as an open gun with Carver Custom frame mounted DPP, threaded Double Diamond barrel with two slot compensator, tungsten guide rod with uncaptured factory recoil spring (17#) and a brass back strap secured magwell. Used local range reloads for several years without a problem. No data on the reloads. Shot the gun competitively for a good three years without a problem including almost two years with the reloads. I do not reload. Last year began having a similar problem with failures to feed, 2, 3 or 4 times a 250 round match. Set the gun aside after changing to lower recoil springs did not solve the problem. Photo included. Have decided the range reloads that served me well for years need to be replaced since they are unknown factor/quality and I don’t have access to a chronograph. I was seduced by the price and nickel plated LAPD range brass. I have the following factory ammunition in storage: Armscor 180 gr, 953 FPS with predicted PF 171.5 American Eagle 165 gr, 1130 FPS with predicted PF 186 Federal Range 180 gr, 985 FPS with predicted PF 177 Federal Syntech 180 gr, 1010 FPS with predicted PF 182 What recoil spring should I start with, what should I look for other than the absence of the malfunction?

I am currently looking at the Agency Optic System or AOS for my G19. Thinking about getting a G19 Gen 3 slide milled by them while retaining pristine the OEM slide with matching numbers. There must be someone out there who has already gone the AOS cut route who could comment. http://www.agencyarms.com/optic-cuts

Photos of the peening please.

I have never changed a liner, but would the brass one go in and out more easily?

Thank you. That was very helpful. My background was rifle with scope at 100 yards, typically with only dominant eye open. Since I took up USPSA with pistol and now PCC I have tried to sue both eyes open, but often find myself reverting to dominant eye only. It is hard to develop new habits.

It’s an acquired taste!

Or Or you can take a totally different approach, like my night match and home defense Gen 3 G17. This is an old photo. It now also sports a matching rely ALG Defense magwell.

This new LCI trend (Sig P320 X Five Legion and now Zev) appears to be an attempt to meet a requirement of certain restrictive states without adding moving parts

That’s all part of the post that I copied and saved. No promises, just the information from a fellow shooter.

Elsewhere in a huge Ruger PCC thread on RugerForum I read that extraction can be compromised when the takedown adjust is a little too loose. Read the whole thread and copy pasted out of it a few tidbits, of which this was one: Failure to Eject: You probably have already done this, but make sure the barrel nut is snugged down tight. Keep two screws that attach bolt to stock torqued to 65 inch pounds. Volquartsen making new extractor.

Got a Streamlight flashlight with a tape switch that mounts on a 3” segment of M-LOK rail. Installed the light on the right side (3 o’clock) and put the tape switch on the top (12 o’clock) so I could activate it with my left thumb while holding the carbine. Went to the range to zero my MRO and got it just about dialed in when the section of rail with the tape switch rail came loose. Removed it and the flashlight, then shot again and was way off from the almost zero. Checked that the MRO was not loose. Went to put the section of the rail back in place and realized the M-LOK screws hit and slightly depressed the barrel. The barrel is not centered in the handguard. The rail segment is from Bravo Company. It appears the design of the PC9 doesn’t allow actual use of the top set of M-LOK slots.

Do you think there is friction between the rod and the bushing that slows down the slide? Could the springs be binding on the thick rod?

Thanks for the detailed and thoughtful response. It appeared from your examples that the work to move the trigger bar, depress the firing pin safety was pretty similar between the triggers, so that anything that reduced pull in your examples simply decreased the slope of the wall, making it less wall-like, and therefore, perhaps more mushy, the more the total pull was reduced. Have you looked at the impact of changing the firing pin plunger spring weight? Those springs are pretty inexpensive....

Thanks for doing all that work to quantify differences between triggers. You mentioned that your rig might be pulling on the trigger a little higher than your actual finger does. Certainly that would shorten the lever arm and require a little more force. I presume that means if these combinations were measured using a pull or pressure point further down the trigger, the forces might be lower. Any idea how much lower? You also mentioned that pulling higher might exaggerate the differences between various trigger and spring combinations. Would it be possible to redo some of this work on the parts you already have, but with the pull point lower on the triggers? Would that be more “real world”?

How much longer? Would a G19 threaded barrel with the thread protector left on do the trick?

Sooner or later as your eyes age* your arms will not be long enough to see the front sight in focus. Then you will recognize the benefits of a red dot sight and competing in the carry optics division. The sooner you accept the inevitable and progressive aging process, the sooner you will begin to work on the new muscle memory required to work with a red dot sight instead of irons. There is an argument for this transition even before aging makes its influence known. After all, the military chose some time ago to equip the troops with ACOGs, essentially none of whom “needed them” because of aging eyes. That was no small investment. Nearly all my guns have red dots now. The one that doesn’t has Trijicon HDs which work as standard glowing dots at night, but in the daytime a black rear and bright orange dot front. That still works in a pinch for this 69 year old. I have no experience with fiber optic sights indoors and defer to others with that expertise. *this is called presbyopia and refers to the gradual reduction in your natural lenses ability to zoom from far to near vision and explains while most with age need reading glasses or bifocals then trifocals. Some shooters use “shooting glasses” where one eye is corrected to focus on the front sight and the other to focus on the target. The red dot sight allows both eyes to focus at distance.

Is there a way to ask the USPSA this question to get an official answer? We are all just guessing in our interpretations of the rules.

Sorry. Forgot to copy the link I had found before posting my response. https://www.carvercustom.com/ecommerce/carver-handgun-scope-mounts/carver-glock-scope-mounts/competition-glock-scope-mounts/carver-competition-glock-c-more-mount.cfm s2000red was able to read my mind over the internet and gave the link I forgot to attach.

Will this work for you? The mount clamps on the rail and stabilizes itself with a long screw through the frame in place of the trigger pin. There may be other variants on the website. I have their mount for the DeltaPoint Pro and found it works great. Even took it off and put back on without losing zero.

Got a Holosun 503GU Elite (green circle dot) and loved it on my Ruger PCC for steel challenge. Then brought it to a rifle/PCC match, USPSA like stages with longer shots out to 50-75-135 yards for PCC and up to 350 for AR-15s. Was going great on a stage, three shots three hits at 115-135 yards and was running over to the rest of the stage where there were typical USPSA barriers and targets from 5 yards to 30 yards when the green dot went blank. Unfortunately the base was solid, so I couldn’t see the irons. Total disaster. Went over to the berm safety area with a new battery, thinking mine was dead, when it shouldn’t be since the whole set up was still pretty new. Lo and behold the circle dot was there but it was on the dimmest setting. Cranked it back up and finished the remaining two stages. What happened? The stage was filmed and my hands never went anywhere near the brightness controls. The PCC didn’t get banged into anything either. The darn thing just arbitrarily went dim. A week or two later went ahead and moved my MRO over to the PCC and put the Holosun on an AR I rarely use. Very disappointed. Haven’t shot the MRO yet, but will miss the Holosun. The circle was great for CQB phases and the center dot was great for the long range stuff.

This ^^^. Living in California where this would be an assault weapon: telescoping stock, pistol grip, I waited for the “Gen2” with old school rifle stock, no pistol grip, but more useful M-lok handguard and added the TACCOM3g upgrade package. No registration versus featureless design issues.

Thanks! That is way better than my answer would have been.

As DWS wrote earlier and rephrased to reinforce: We are individuals with varying grip, sight picture, hold, trigger pull, etc. No one guy can begin to know what is best for the next guy. Shoot your own gun, figure out your POA/POI knowing your own technique and preferences. IF you are not happy then consult Dawson for fine tuning while also considering the nuances emphasized by tha1000 immediately before me.