Paul49

How old? I’m 69 and a half and have enjoyed my DPP 2.5 MOA in competitions for over a year, probably 4-5K rounds. Mounted on a G35, first as a Dueck Defense dovetail mount then the last nine months with a Carver Competition frame mount. I’m in Southern California where it’s nearly always sunny. Made the transition to the DPP because I just couldn’t see the front sight without shooting glasses and got tired of the shooting glasses compromising binocular vision.

This money would be better spent on match fees and practice ammo. The difference will not be noticeable nor relevant given the nature of USPSA.

Pictures? We don’t need no stinking pictures when we can let our imaginations run wild!

If what you heard about the baking impacting the striker channel were true, it would seem responsible appliers of the cerakote should remove the channel liner beforehand. Why should the customer have to know about this and take pains to recover from it?

Just got a Ruger PC9 Carbine, put a Holosun 503GU Green on it about mid rail. Ran it for Steel Challenge where it worked well. Then ran a rifle/PCC match where the Holosun suddenly jumped to the lowest setting in the middle of a stage, just as if it were turned off by an invisible hand. The base it came with precluded using the iron sights as a fail safe. So I took that Holosun off the PC9 and moved a Trijicon MRO on which has a see through base. As I was mounting it, didn’t really know if it should go forward on the rail, mid rail or rearward. Is there a single best way to position the dot sight? Or is it a personal preference thing? I am familiar with eye relief determining the position of magnified optics, but didn’t know the thoughts behind the dot sight positioning. Thanks in advance for your opinions and recommendations. PS: I really liked how the Ruger performed in both matches, look forward to getting the optic mounted and zeroed and back to competition.

One of the challenges with first using a red dot is the presentation is slightly different given the sight line is a little higher above the bore axis than stock iron sights You don’t NEED the co-witness now, but using it now may help train your presentation to be closer to that needed when you do have the red dot. That may make the transition to the red dot easier. A different question. What are you waiting for? Why not go for the red dot now? Everything you are doing now is building muscle memory that will have to be changed once you get the red dot.

The MOS will allow you to decide which optic you prefer and then you may proceed with milling for that optic.

^^^ This has been my experience. I was quite used to my G35 with irons until my presbyopia (natural loss of near vision with age) made it impossible to see the front sight.. Two of my three Glock pistols (G35 and G17) have red dots now but my G22 with Crimson Trace laser grip does not for obvious reasons. After shooting for almost 25 years with irons, it has taken a lot of practice to get my presentations consistent with the red dots so they are in view. I walk around the house with an empty gun and point at light bulbs, electrical switches, hinges on doors, etc. in attempt to develop the new muscle memory. Slow progress is being made. The second challenge of the red dot is keeping both eyes open and leading with the eyes to the next target as the gun follows and shooting as soon as the dot arrives (a la Frank Procter). I am having the same problem with my PCC and AR when trying to prepare for matches with closer targets where both eyes open is faster.

Maybe the tightness of the “mouth” of the holster or even the angle of the material might change the dynamics of friction and rubbing on the muzzle end of the slide with each insertion??

Sorry, but let’s be honest, these base pads are not fool proof either. I have seen competitors have their base pad enhanced magazines “crap out” on them in matches. Many have described the problems associated with overcoming the feeding issues created by the transition joint between the base and the magazine itself. It often takes them a series of trial and error experiences to get a magazine base pad combination reliable.

Magpul 21 rounds magazines also ran great in my Gen 3 G17 in several night matches, fitted out with ALG six second mount, Deltapoint Pro and Streamlight TLR-1.

That’s what Glockstore website says. So you choose a 17# spring with your tungsten guide rod and then for $9.95 buy a 15# spring or even a 15# and a 13# one......

If your current spring works why not duplicate it’s weight?

You can know that the diameter is smaller than the opening it easily passes through in the muzzle end of the slide without any hint of binding.

I have one and it works fine, but I have extended magazines. Before the extended magazines I used the standard magazine with a heavier aluminum base plate (JWH Custom) that both enhanced the magazine dropping when released and made the whole assembly long enough to easily and fully insert the magazines without extra or unusual effort. You can get these from The Glockstore for extra premium pricing or from the manufacturer with a huge selection of engraving options for about half that price. They are a little hard to get on and off because they don’t flex like the stock polymer ones. Some folks have found if they shave those little retention ears at the bottom of the magazines these base plates go on and off more easily. Others will say that’s asking for your magazine to disassemble itself at the worst possible time. I have about twenty of these, all of which have been dropped multiple times and have never come apart except when I was taking them apart. https://www.jwhcustom.com/product-category/accessories/glock/

This was my solution also. After a couple magazine jams ruined a match for me, I settled on the following protocol. My magazines are numbered and rotated each stage. The one that was #2 and still in my gun at the end of the stage gets carefully removed, returned to the magazine pouch #1, reloaded between stages and put back into pouch #1. The magazine that was #3 and not used at all gets moved up to #2 spot. At end of stage, pick up magazine that fell on ground, unload it, disassemble it, rub the outside with a clean cloth, run a brush through the inside multiple times. Wipe off the spring, follower and inner base plate, then reassemble and reload. If that magazine was not empty when dropped then the remaining bullets are also wiped before it gets loaded.The magazine that was #1, used on the stage and dropped on the ground gets put into position #3 for the next stage once cleaned and reloaded. This way all get about equal use and the malfunctions have ceased.

Presuming it is a durable and effective modification.

Compelling numbers making the point. Just wondering if there is a possibility of separating out the Seniors (over age 55) or Super Seniors (over age 65) whose eyes may not be able to see both the front sight and target that well due to presbyopia. At least theoretically they might benefit from the red dots.....

Is it really hard or easy to fix this malfunction? If it is really hard to undo, it is similar to a malfunction I had with a Lone Wolf conversion barrel and one kind of 9 mm ammunition. Everything else, four or five brands, fed well except this one brand and it was consistently a disaster. It would not go into battery and I couldn’t pull the slide back to eject the round. Had to strip out the magazine and bang the pistol on the counter, shake it, try to rack the slide and after a few minutes the round finally fell out. I thought it was a tight chamber.

Had this problem with new factory 22 round mags for my G35 gen 3. No magazine extensions, but follower failing to move up intermittently and top bullet nose down. Realized the magazines were very dust sensitive. Since I started field stripping, cleaning and reassembling any magazine that hit the ground on a stage before reloading the problem has disappeared. Could not find any burrs or irregularities on the followers.

My comments were made only with the intent for all readers to realize their bargain hunting has secondary consequences that we don’t always consider when saving a nickel. People complain about the loss of manufacturing jobs in the USA when in fact ALL of us at one time or another made choices that contributed to that loss. Maybe we need a return to the era when “Made in the USA” or buy the “Union Label” were considered laudable campaigns?

Alvey728 was talking Chinese knockoff basepads versus TTI if I understood him correctly.

Every time we buy a Chinese knockoff of an American product we vote for the offshore competition and against the local manufacturer. In the long run the aggregate effect of all those individual choices to save $5, $10, $15 etc., leads to the competitive failure or closure of the local business. Please think twice and consider the implications. Swingline long since moved their staple gun factory from Massachusetts to Mexico because we chose the cheaper staplers to hang our targets. This eventually costs our fellow Americans their jobs.

Chui, you would have to live in California for that to work. The California DOJ has a roster of guns approved for sale in the state. Manufacturers have to submit multiple samples to the DOJ for safety testing and there are other requirements such as loaded chamber indicator, etc. There may even be a micro stamping requirement for new entries. Gen 3 are the last Glocks approved for sale to the general public. Only LEO and similar can buy off roster guns, such as Gen 4 or 5 Glocks, all P320 models, etc. These privileged few are then allowed to sell to the public through private party transfers via LGS FFL. All that malarkey severely limits supply, so prices go up drastically for “off roster” guns.