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About earlan357

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    Finally read the FAQs

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    Earl An

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  1. A G17 length guide rod is long enough. The P10F shares nearly the same amount of travel and free space for the spring as the P10C, so G17 springs will bind and reduce rear travel. A Wolff or Springco roundwire spring for a G19 works with the .275" diameter rod and won't coil bind.
  2. The CGW SS rod weighs 0.7oz. The Jentra .275" Heavy weighs 2.0oz after it's cut to length.
  3. A 2oz package of JB Weld is probably enough for 3-4 grips. The SC layer is .015-.017” thick. About the same as a business card.
  4. I just SC'd my 2nd frame. I de-greased the frame with rubbing alcohol then masked off the edges with 1mm wide flexible vinyl tape used for masking pinstripes on cars. Much easier to bend around curves. Then extended the mask with strips of blue painter's tape. Roughened up the smooth areas with 220-grit and cleaned with more alcohol. Painted on JB-Weld Original Cold-Weld. Sprinkled on 60/90 all over the frame, lightly pat it down(wear nitrile gloves), sprinkle more , pat some more, repeat a few times. Let it sit for an hour then carefully removed the tape. Sprinkled more media on the ex
  5. How did you redo it? Did you grind off the old SC or just put another layer on top?
  6. Well crap. That sucks because the opening itself narrower than my gen5 Glock34. Can I thin it? Does USPSA have a max width dimension or is it a judgement call? Worst case I can just hack up an X-frame.
  7. I just got mine and love the ergos. Points higher than the standard grip, but lower than the X-Grip. My favorite part is how the front lip of the magwell pushes up on my pinky and wedges my fingers against the trigger guard. The trigger guard is nicely raised so it doesn't rub at all my middle finger knuckle. Size wise it feels like a standard medium grip module. I found that Legion/X-grips are too wide at the top near the tang and dig into my thumb knuckle. My only complaint is that the texture on the sides is way too slick and with the way they cut out out the thumb area, my support pa
  8. So I realized that a 1911 spring plug fit perfectly in my P320C slide. I just had to trim off the rear so it wouldn't stick out past the slide dustcover. I used a GrayGuns Fat p228 rod, a custom made rod, and a G19 rod to try out some springs. Results: OEM Sig P228 Blue spring: Unmodified but barely closes the slide OEM P250C spring: Unmodified but cannot close the slide against the striker spring. Wolff 15# P228 spring: Unmodified but cannot close the slide against the striker spring. ISMI 15# Glock 19 spring: Had to cut off 5 coils before the slide would travel fully to the r
  9. If it works, you’ll be able to make your own.
  10. Look at the bottom of the slide. There's a ramp near the front of the rib that runs down the center just before the breechface. So even though you can get the mag seated when loaded to 23, as the slide retracts, the ramp has to push the top round down further into the mag. If there isn't enough free space in the mag, it will create a ton of mechanical resistance as the slide starts to travel rearward since the mag spring is bottomed out. You'll probably notice a huge difference in effort when retracting a closed slide on 23 vs 22 rounds. A lighter recoil spring won't help much in this cas
  11. Gonna try out an OEM "white" spring from a P228/229, an OEM P250C round wire, and a 15# P228 spring from Wolff. Hopefully the Wolff works since it's available in a wide variety of weights. The biggest problem is there's only .682" of space for the spring when the slide is fully to the rear with my adapter plug and guide rod. I'm using a modified 1911 guide rod right now with a base thickness of .070". The plug takes up another .083". I have a GrayGuns fat rod for a 228/229 on the way which should have a thinner base. If I need more room, I think the hollow P228 oem guiderod has an even t
  12. Guide rod is done. Chopped an old XD spring as a place holder. Not strong enough to keep the slide closed. Just waiting for the spring to arrive on Monday.
  13. Not without cutting up the slide. I'd have to bore all the way through the hole and cut it for a reverse plug like on bull barreled 1911s and it would only gain back .100". Plus that concentrates a lot of stress on the relatively thin corners of the plug. Maybe for weak loads and a 10-12# spring, but in that case the comp wouldn't be as effective. The user would be better served just swapping to a longer barrel/slide. In my case, I can't extended the plug or it will hit my suppressor. I have an Omega9k and it will barely cycle with 147 subsonic and doesn't always lock the slide back.
  14. Progress: The bad news is, I don't think a single recoil spring setup is feasible with a P320 SubCompact. There's barely enough room for a 4" let alone a 3.5". I took some measurements on my p320 compact/carry slide. There's only .866" of space for the spring when fully compressed. My adapter ring eats up 0.100" and another 0.070" for the base of the guide rod. That leaves only .696" for the spring at full compression. My thinnest ISMI 13# G19 spring is .896" fully collapsed. However, after digging around, I saw that the original 4" P250C used a round wire spring with only 12.5 c
  15. I've been thinking about how to retrofit a single recoil spring into my P320 Compact slide so I can tune the spring to run light loads better when suppressed. I measured the stroke distance of the slide at 1.969". My 4.25" 1911 stroke is 1.952". So there might be enough room for a 1911 Commander spring to function without binding. I've got some ideas for a guide rod and adapter setup and should have parts in hand next week to start tinkering. Regarding the P320 Sub-Compact, ISMI makes flat-wire springs for 3.5" 1911s, but without an SC slide on hand to measure stroke length or
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