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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About earlan357

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    Earl An

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  1. I've been using one for a few months now. I'm a fan but I don't think it's for everyone nor is it an "RMR KILLER!". Up until now my preference has been for RMRs with 6.5moa dots and still is on carry/duty guns. My CO guns have 5moa SROs. I like bigger dots. They're easier to see at lower brightness levels so I don't have to "bloom" the dot to make it bigger/easier to pickup. I tried the 507C with the 2moa dot and 35moa circle, but I found the ring too busy and the 2-moa dot too small by itself. I'm pretty spoiled by the SRO's large window, but the 407CO has a few advantages over the SRO and RMR. The adjustment dials are more positive and I don't need to use an optic plate. The glass is clearer than both, and the 8moa ring is clean even with my astigmatism. The Trijicon dots are always a bit fuzzy to my eyes. It also doesn't have as deep of a blue hue as the Trijjicon glass. The blue hue is a notch filter that allows the dot to be brighter with less power, so while the Trijicons have great battery life, I change my batteries every 6 months so it's kind of a moot point. I only use Duracell 2032 batteries in my optics. They've proven to be more robust in my slide mounted optics than Energizer or Sanyo 2032s. The auto-adjust feature on the Holosuns is too stingy and never bright enough for me so I just use the manually adjustable constant on mode. The Trijicon's are also a bit too dim under auto mode and the SRO is borderline unusable. Holosuns shake awake mode is pretty nice. I'd probably disable it on a carry gun, but for a competition gun that sits in the safe I like it. Just a light nudge with my finger and it comes on in under a second. During matches I periodically look down into the holstered gun and the dot's always there. In dry-fire and four matches I've always had a dot on presentation. Video of its sensitivity below. https://www.instagram.com/p/B6Hj1egJbAp/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link Unlike the RMR, the bottom of the window is level with the rear of the housing, so the bottom 1/5 isn't blocked on the 407CO. This gives me just a little more window to track the dot in recoil. I also notice that I see a "ghost" image of the ring as the shot breaks, while with traditional dots, I just see a faint streak. Here's a pic below illustrating what I mean. As far as accuracy goes, the 8-moa ring is small enough to be inside the black of a B-8. On a USPSA target, it's small enough to fit inside the upper A zone out to about 20 yards. Below is a pic of it on a simulated 25y B8 target. My best B8 drill with it so far is a 96 3X in 15.52 seconds at 25 yards. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNweKs5uBD8&feature=youtu.be You can't really see things clearly through the 8-moa ring. The red ring washes out objects in the center, so you can only make out details inside the ring if they're really far away and by that point they're too small to see anyway. I just treat it like a giant dot. However, since some light can pass through the hole, I don't find myself getting sucked into the dot on darker targets. It's almost like my brain is subconsciously trying to look through the dot instead of at it, so it's easier to stay target focused. Maybe that's why I find it so much clearer than solid dots. Compared to the SRO, the advantages are the same except for the SRO having a top loading battery compartment and the bigger window. But I've relegated the SRO to my backup gun. The SRO's taller window is nice, but it's not really any wider. The only time I ever really lose the dot is when coming into positions, so while I can find it slightly faster with the SRO, my body hasn't settled enough to make a solid hit anyways. I picked mine up during a Black Friday sale for $205 shipped, which is an absolute bargain. I wish I'd gotten more.
  2. 23+1 can be problematic in 141mm 9mm magazines in some striker fired guns. When you look at the bottom of the slide, the center rib of the Glock has a ramped portion near the breechface. When the slide moves rearward, the ramp further compresses the rounds into the magazine. So even if you can get them in with the slide closed, the extra resistance can rob your slide of so much velocity that it doesn't travel fully to the rear. So even though it travels far enough to pick up the next round, there isn't enough delay to allow the stack of rounds to get pushed up tight against the feed lips since the slide is immediately coming forward. The result is often a "nosedive". I found this out when I could run 23+1 in a P09 but not in a P10F. Hammer-fired guns don't typically have the ramp on their center rib. The ramp could be there to use the mag spring and top round tension to reduce the rearward slide velocity since striker guns don't have a hammer to provide resistance during the initial unlocking of the slide. But the problem with that theory is that the last few rounds of the mag don't provide significant tension to delay the slide, especially the last round where it's just the follower. Plus, not all striker fired guns have the ramp. M&Ps and XDs for instance have a flat center rib.
  3. FWIW I have an ancient LW threaded G19 barrel and the only negative I've found is that the black finish doesn't last very long. I've used it with suppressors and different comps on an abused knock around gun and other than the finish wear, have had zero issues with it. I picked up a KKM G34.5 barrel last month and it had a faint ring scribed in the rifling about 1/4" back from the muzzle. A metal shaving must have hitched a ride on the pilot as they were cutting the crown. I contacted KKM and they said I could return it if it didn't shoot well. Fortunately it shoots just fine. Shooting unsupported I've never noticed any barrel standing out as being more/less accurate. As long as I can score a 95 or better B8 at 25y in under 20 seconds I call it good. Not sure if it's all gen5s or just mine, but the leade on my g34.5 oem barrel is cut a little short. My competition loads with Blue Bullets (1.130" OAL) were catching on the rifling and occasionally preventing chambering, just like on my CZs which are known to have short leades. All my other aftermarket barrels(Agency, Blacklist, Faxon, KKM, LW) have passed the plunk test. I wonder if the gen5 Marksman barrels are cut to CIP spec instead of SAAMI?
  4. I haven't broker my oem striker yet, but picked up a CGW striker for piece of mind. I don't think anyone has broker a tool-steel striker yet. The 10320 reduced the trigger pull in my P10F by 6oz compared to the 10300 which was pretty much the same as OEM. Unfortunately, after about 1,500 rounds and a lot of dry-fire I started getting doubling with the 10320. It's wasn't going full-auto since it wouldn't do it when I pinned the trigger to the rear, but it would basically bump-fire when trying to shoot fast splits. I think it was more to do with the rear insert starting to loosen in the frame than the striker. However, I think CGW stopped selling the 10320 a few weeks ago when some P-10F owners reported the same thing. I think P10s have a lot more variation between guns/parts tolerances than their hammer fired guns. I posted a lot more info about the strikers here: https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=106434.0
  5. If you pull out a Glock OEM channel liner, the inside is really rough, even brand new ones. I sent a slide out to BattleWerx for optic milling and when it came back the trigger felt amazing. I found out they remove the OEM liners when re-finishing and replace them with the white liners from Lone Wolf. https://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=634145 They cost the same but the insides are completely smooth. It only drops the weight by an once or so, but it removes a lot of the grittyness and stacking since the spring cups and striker spring are rubbing against slick plastic. They're all I use now.
  6. I prefer muzzle heavy guns so being able to throw in an extended tungsten guide rod to add some frame weight up front leans me toward the 34. I have a gen5 mos 34 non-FS with the front grip cutout. I also have a non-cutout gen5 g17 frame with a gen4 brownells 34 Rmr cut slide and I love it. The optic sits a lot lower than the mos and the slide weighs 1.1oz less so it’s a little happier with my 132PF loads. I swapped in a gen4 trigger and slide stop so it’s basically just a gen4 without finger grooves and a flared magwell. It also has a lighter break by about 6oz compared to the gen5 after installing lighter springs. The only aftermarket trigger springs I’ve found for gen5s are from TTI, but they don’t reduce the weight as much as the commonly available “6# trigger springs” for gen4s. With Oem parts kit and a KKM gen5 barrel the total cost still came out to a little less than the MOS version too.
  7. Here's the response I got back from KKM. I'm going to go ahead and shoot it first with jacketed ammo to see if it remains, then my match coated ammo to see how it groups. Worse case I can return it. Earl - Showed the picture to the boss, he said it doesn't look of concern unless you can see it looking straight down the bore. We will always be glad to send a return label to bring it in for a closer look if you like. If it is found to be a problem and cannot be repaired we would of course replace it. Feel free to shoot it to see if it is accurate and clean it after to see if the mark still exists, otherwise please advise and we will email over a return label to bring it back in to us. Thank you,
  8. I just received a KKM Gen5 Glock 34 barrel today and noticed this faint ring about 1/8" back from the muzzle. It doesn't catch on a cotton swab, but I can feel it when I scrape at it with a plastic dental pick. I haven't shot it yet and I'm waiting on a reply from KKM. Anyone else notice anything like this?
  9. First thing to do is dry-fire the gun a lot. The triggers are not very smooth from the factory. The black oxide coating on the internals feels rough like parkerizing, but will wear off and smooth out considerably with use. If you want to tune for loads, Gen3 Glock 19 recoil springs (G17 springs are too long) and striker springs work great in the P-10F. Also, don't be tempted squeeze an extra round into the magazine. There needs to be at least 1/4" of space in the mag for the spring to compress. Just because it will seat on a closed slide doesn't mean it will run happily. The slide's center rib has a ramp that presses the top round in another .100" as it retracts. Without enough space, the slide can be slowed by the resistance and fail to travel far enough to the rear. Without enough energy on the return stroke, the top round ends up nose-diving into the feed ramp. If you manage to stuff the rounds in so tight that there's no movement at all, on some guns the rim of the top round can stress the ejector leg during hard reloads, bending or breaking it over time. If you like to tinker, most standard length punches are too short to poke the roll pins completely out of the frame and they can be quite tight. Start them with short punches, then tap them the rest of the way out with extended punches. A roll of tape works okay, but a good armorer's block makes life easier. Avoid taking it apart if you can though. I've taken mine down dozens of times playing with different trigger/parts, and each time the roll pins shave a little off the frame holes when they're tapped in the last few millimeters.
  10. I shot a match over the weekend with the trimmed 14# Wolff XDM spring(minus 1 coil). The only malfunction I had was user induced when I failed to fully seat the mag on a reload. It was running fine so I didn’t try the 16# spring (minus 2.5 coils) until afterwards. I ran some bill drills with the 16# and slide returned flatter but casings weren’t ejecting as far, landing just 2 to 3 feet away.
  11. I plan to try 125gr. I don't reload, I just buy minor reman from Outdoor Dynamics. I have some 125 on custom order but there's a lead time of a few weeks. I tried 124s with my gen3 G34 a while back and I also found I preferred the 147s with a 13# spring. I shot one magazine of 147gr Blazer Brass (~147PF) yesterday and didn't notice any sluggishness. I don't think I've owned a striker fired gun that didn't prefer 147gr. I think it has something to do with not having a hammer to help delay the slide/barrel unlock timing. But who knows, with the g19 style barrel lugs and different slide weight, maybe the gen5 will buck that trend. My hunch is that I'm going to need to lighten the slide a bit. I plan to get front serrations cut anyways. I'm hoping that and a front top pocket will be enough, but I'll resort to windows if I have to.
  12. The bushing in there now is Delrin which is a low friction polymer. I used plastic since it was just for short-term testing and easy to machine. The rod is polished smooth, and the spring is oversized to the rod by only .021" so the coils stay pretty much straight. Coil springs expand when compressed, so there's even more clearance as the slide retracts. With the connector and barrel removed there's barely any noise coming from the rod/spring. No tightness/roughness in the slide-frame rails either and the ejector is not dragging on the slide center rib. Really the most felt resistance comes from the connector riding against the slide as it cams on and off the disconnector surfaces. OEM springs are thinner wire, so they can stack up a lot more coils. They utilize more pre-load since the force increases at a lower rate. I had to clip a few coils off the XDM spring. Otherwise, the coils would stack up and prevent the slide from retracting fully. This lowers pre-load, but increases spring rate. Interestingly, according to my calculations, due to the helix angle and thickness of the wire, the spring peak force actually gets about 3% stronger with each coil removed up to a point. Hopefully the 16# spring has a lower coil count and the extra space I added for the rod will be enough.
  13. Polished up the rod with 3.5, 1.0, and 0.5 micron diamond lapping paste yesterday. Then shot 150 rounds and got my optic zeroed with my standard 147gr 132PF loads. Mostly B-8s at distance and a few Bill drills. No malfunctions, brass landing about 4 feet to my right. Sights returned a little high, but I haven't undercut the trigger guard or reduced the backstrap hump so my index was high to begin with. The slide felt sluggish on the return stroke, almost like it was pausing for a beat and I was waiting for it to start going back into battery. Odd because the slide cycles super smooth. It's almost like the slide is a few oz too heavy. I've got another 14# and a heavier 16# spring on order to play with. This morning I thinned the base from .150" to .075") to make more room for the spring so I won't have to clip as many coils off. I'm also going to replace the Delrin adapter ring with an aluminum one that I can make thinner. Since both ends of the Wolff spring are closed, I don't actually need the ring, but it acts as a bushing to keep the rod from touching the slide. I also have a CHPWS optic plate arriving today. Being aluminum, it weighs about 0.5 oz less than the factory steel MOS plate, so we'll see how much of an effect that makes. This is fun.
  14. So the spring arrived yesterday. It's a 14# XD-M spring from Wolff. The wire diameter is .046" and it has 19 coils. The coils were binding and limiting travel by .078", so I had to clip a few off. I made a .050" thick adapter ring from Delrin. The spring seat area on the G34 isn't a complete circle, so I wanted something to keep the front coil flat. The Delrin ring also reduces the slide's .437" inner diameter to .412" , eliminating rod (.402") to slide contact, and providing better alignment. It's pretty smooth, but I still need to polish the rod. My diamond lapping paste arrives today. The spring's outside diameter is .515". The OEM is .500". The barrel makes a little contact with the spring as it drops to unlock, but no more than it did with the factory RSA. I ended up taking 2.5 coils off the spring and it feels just slightly heavier than the 13# spring I had in it earlier. Will adjust after test-fire tomorrow. Since I can't stop experimenting I also reduced the angle on the striker leg by 9 degrees in the mill. According to my math, I can take up to 15 degrees off the sear nose without it bumping the trigger bar down, but the new angle would make the sear leg too short. At 9 degrees, I still had to slightly bend up the trigger bar cruciform to maintain about 3/4 sear engagement. Not sure how long it will last since I cut through the factory finish, but both the striker leg and sear nose are mirror polished so I think I'll be able to get a full season out of it (6-8k rounds plus dry-fire). Coupled with a 6# trigger spring, a 4# Striker spring, and an OEM 4.5 "dot" connector, the pull weight is down to 2.5#. About 1# of take-up to the wall and doesn't have the mushiness you get with 3.5 connectors. There's a ton of overtravel though so I'll probably pick up a Ghost 4.5 CAT connector to dial it out. With the OEM "'-" connector it breaks just over 2#.
  15. There's a slight reduction in the first "bump" before the wall, but since the trigger bar is sliding against the flat part of the plunger, the spring's effect on friction there is negligible if polished smooth. I haven't tested it on a Gen5 though. Since the plunger is shaped like a trapezoid, it has a larger ramping surface. My hunch is that it spreads out the "bump", but the peak force it creates is probably the same.
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