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earlan357

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    Earl An

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  1. I plan to try 125gr. I don't reload, I just buy minor reman from Outdoor Dynamics. I have some 125 on custom order but there's a lead time of a few weeks. I tried 124s with my gen3 G34 a while back and I also found I preferred the 147s with a 13# spring. I shot one magazine of 147gr Blazer Brass (~147PF) yesterday and didn't notice any sluggishness. I don't think I've owned a striker fired gun that didn't prefer 147gr. I think it has something to do with not having a hammer to help delay the slide/barrel unlock timing. But who knows, with the g19 style barrel lugs and different slide weight, maybe the gen5 will buck that trend. My hunch is that I'm going to need to lighten the slide a bit. I plan to get front serrations cut anyways. I'm hoping that and a front top pocket will be enough, but I'll resort to windows if I have to.
  2. The bushing in there now is Delrin which is a low friction polymer. I used plastic since it was just for short-term testing and easy to machine. The rod is polished smooth, and the spring is oversized to the rod by only .021" so the coils stay pretty much straight. Coil springs expand when compressed, so there's even more clearance as the slide retracts. With the connector and barrel removed there's barely any noise coming from the rod/spring. No tightness/roughness in the slide-frame rails either and the ejector is not dragging on the slide center rib. Really the most felt resistance comes from the connector riding against the slide as it cams on and off the disconnector surfaces. OEM springs are thinner wire, so they can stack up a lot more coils. They utilize more pre-load since the force increases at a lower rate. I had to clip a few coils off the XDM spring. Otherwise, the coils would stack up and prevent the slide from retracting fully. This lowers pre-load, but increases spring rate. Interestingly, according to my calculations, due to the helix angle and thickness of the wire, the spring peak force actually gets about 3% stronger with each coil removed up to a point. Hopefully the 16# spring has a lower coil count and the extra space I added for the rod will be enough.
  3. Polished up the rod with 3.5, 1.0, and 0.5 micron diamond lapping paste yesterday. Then shot 150 rounds and got my optic zeroed with my standard 147gr 132PF loads. Mostly B-8s at distance and a few Bill drills. No malfunctions, brass landing about 4 feet to my right. Sights returned a little high, but I haven't undercut the trigger guard or reduced the backstrap hump so my index was high to begin with. The slide felt sluggish on the return stroke, almost like it was pausing for a beat and I was waiting for it to start going back into battery. Odd because the slide cycles super smooth. It's almost like the slide is a few oz too heavy. I've got another 14# and a heavier 16# spring on order to play with. This morning I thinned the base from .150" to .075") to make more room for the spring so I won't have to clip as many coils off. I'm also going to replace the Delrin adapter ring with an aluminum one that I can make thinner. Since both ends of the Wolff spring are closed, I don't actually need the ring, but it acts as a bushing to keep the rod from touching the slide. I also have a CHPWS optic plate arriving today. Being aluminum, it weighs about 0.5 oz less than the factory steel MOS plate, so we'll see how much of an effect that makes. This is fun.
  4. So the spring arrived yesterday. It's a 14# XD-M spring from Wolff. The wire diameter is .046" and it has 19 coils. The coils were binding and limiting travel by .078", so I had to clip a few off. I made a .050" thick adapter ring from Delrin. The spring seat area on the G34 isn't a complete circle, so I wanted something to keep the front coil flat. The Delrin ring also reduces the slide's .437" inner diameter to .412" , eliminating rod (.402") to slide contact, and providing better alignment. It's pretty smooth, but I still need to polish the rod. My diamond lapping paste arrives today. The spring's outside diameter is .515". The OEM is .500". The barrel makes a little contact with the spring as it drops to unlock, but no more than it did with the factory RSA. I ended up taking 2.5 coils off the spring and it feels just slightly heavier than the 13# spring I had in it earlier. Will adjust after test-fire tomorrow. Since I can't stop experimenting I also reduced the angle on the striker leg by 9 degrees in the mill. According to my math, I can take up to 15 degrees off the sear nose without it bumping the trigger bar down, but the new angle would make the sear leg too short. At 9 degrees, I still had to slightly bend up the trigger bar cruciform to maintain about 3/4 sear engagement. Not sure how long it will last since I cut through the factory finish, but both the striker leg and sear nose are mirror polished so I think I'll be able to get a full season out of it (6-8k rounds plus dry-fire). Coupled with a 6# trigger spring, a 4# Striker spring, and an OEM 4.5 "dot" connector, the pull weight is down to 2.5#. About 1# of take-up to the wall and doesn't have the mushiness you get with 3.5 connectors. There's a ton of overtravel though so I'll probably pick up a Ghost 4.5 CAT connector to dial it out. With the OEM "'-" connector it breaks just over 2#.
  5. There's a slight reduction in the first "bump" before the wall, but since the trigger bar is sliding against the flat part of the plunger, the spring's effect on friction there is negligible if polished smooth. I haven't tested it on a Gen5 though. Since the plunger is shaped like a trapezoid, it has a larger ramping surface. My hunch is that it spreads out the "bump", but the peak force it creates is probably the same.
  6. Our shop buys tungsten in bulk from Midwest Tungsten. They sell smaller amounts on Amazon: https://amzn.to/2RxXMKR
  7. The problem is two-fold. The Glock dustcover isn't very stiff, and since it's plastic, the rail isn't as repeatable to fixture as metal. Also, the "finger" moves in a straight line, so as the trigger rotates past 90 degrees, the finger essentially moves down the face. If it starts lower, the "finger" will roll off the tip. Since the trigger rolls down the face, the leverage increases. You can see it in the graph where the lines flatten out before the break. Calculating the effect is difficult since it's hard to get accurate measurements of the pivot points, worse with curved triggers. I thought about using a servo to pull the trigger with an arm that matches the rotation, but nothing small enough makes enough torque. I gave up on trying to get "real-world" numbers since everyone pulls the trigger differently and there's already so much variance between individual Glock parts/frames. The point of the video was so someone could get an idea of how an aftermarket part might change compared to what the already have, but not necessarily predict the final result. In the future, I want to test some claims made by internet "glocksmiths". Some of their ideas make sense at first, but when you start digging into material science and tolerance stacking, some of their claims don't seem to be backed up with actual metrics. For instance, anyone who claims their Glock trigger is "like a 1911" without hard data other than a few readings from a trigger pull scale.
  8. I tried the Angel, but it just felt too long to me. To clarify, I prefer a trigger with a wall I can find at speed, but just a little smooth movement between the wall and break. My CZ P-10F is like this, with 1# of take-up to the wall and a 2#12oz break. But Glock triggers are harder to tune. If I could get a 4.5 connector down to 3# I'd be in heaven. As an off-season experiment, I just milled a spare striker leg back by 9 degrees. It reduced the break by a full pound after stoning and polish, but obviously it won't wear as well since the factory finish is gone, and I have no idea how long it will last/stay reliable. This is where the heavier 6# trigger return springs come in handy. The extra force also pulls the trigger bar up harder and should prevent the striker from skipping over the trigger bar as the tip of the leg wears. Here's my P-10F trigger compared to when it was stock as tested on my trigger dyno.
  9. I'm not really planning to sell these, but if I was, they'd have to be made to order and I'd have to charge about $150 to break even. That's assuming it even works. I'm still waiting on the springs. 1/2" tungsten rod is $12/ft. It takes about 6" of material and an hour of shop time($70/hr), plus it requires a lot more than sanding/polishing to get them smooth compared to stainless. Regular automotive sandpaper barely scratches tungsten. I have to use multiple grits of diamond lapping compound and a leather strop on a bench lathe to smooth it out. On top of that, I can only get about two guide rods out of a carbide lathe insert, so the tooling costs adds another $10 per rod. It goes without saying that this is only for competition guns. I have two longevity concerns. One is the barrel impacting down on the rod/spring everytime the barrel unlocks. Like oem, the rod floats freely in the frame so the only real damage would be to the base(same diameter as OEM). That's where the marks on the bottom of the barrel come from with the factory RSA, and it's why you always get little chips in the base of metal guide rods. Second, that rod has a lot of inertia, so as the slide cycles and the muzzle lifts, I wonder how much extra stress it's putting on the rod and slide tunnel. It would suck to have to replace the rod every few thousand rounds due to wear, or worse, wear on the slide tunnel. Tungsten alloy is harder than stainless steel, though not as hard as melonite/nitride, and more brittle but the nickel and copper should add enough resilience to prevent breakage. Springs are round-wire and will need replacing more frequently than flat-wire or OEM, but I changed to Wolff round-wire springs years ago, and change my springs every 5-6K anyway so that doesn't bother me. Springs should arrive today. My plan is to get a few thousand rounds and maybe a few local indoor matches done. Also need to see how much the extra weight effects my transitions and index. I switched back from my 43oz steel framed CZ because I had to decelerate my wide transitions sooner to avoid overshooting the A-zone, but I loved how flat it shot and how the muzzle heaviness seemed more natural to index.
  10. I used a 90% tungsten, 6% nickel, 4% copper alloy. Higher % tungsten is too brittle. This stuff wears tooling like cast iron. Sharp carbide inserts with positive rake is a must or the metal will just displace instead of cut. I've seen recommendations of 200-300 SFM, but I ran mine at about 100 SFM. 886 RPM, .004 IPR, taking off .020" per pass down to .420" diameter. Finishing pass at .002 IPR to the final diameter of .400". I should've waited to use the new carbide insert until the last two passes. I got a much nicer finish on a test section when the insert was new and sharp. Sandpaper and Scotchbrite are pretty ineffective at removing toolmarks. I've got some 0.5-15 micron diamond lapping paste on the way to slick it up more.
  11. I built a trigger mapping rig a while back and tested some triggers and components. The links below skip my rambling and go straight to the results.
  12. A few weeks ago I started experimenting with modifying my CZ P-10F to use a large diameter tungsten guide rod and 1911 springs. It came out to 3.2oz and runs great. Since I had 6" of tungsten rod leftover, I made a .400" diameter rod for my Gen5 G34. I had to narrow the front portion slightly to get it in the slide, otherwise the base would hang on the barrel lugs. I've got the large spring from the OEM RSA in as a place holder and I still need to polish out the tool marks. The recoil spring I plan to use will be here tomorrow. Weight is 5.4oz. An X300 with batteries is 4.3oz. The factory frame alone weighs 5.2oz.
  13. I also just picked up a Gen5 34 for CO and personal experimenting. I set mine up like I did my Gen3. First thing I did was replace the factory striker channel liner with one from Lone Wolf. The inside of the oem liner is rough. It looks like a chalkboard and is the primary cause of the drag you feel when pulling the trigger. It will smooth out in time but it'll take tens of thousands of rounds. Some people will polish the inside of the liner with a Flitz soaked bore mop chucked in a drill, but I don't like that method since there's no way to get a uniform surface. The white plastic one from LoneWolf is glass smooth on the inside. However, the plastic is a little softer than oem and the QC isn't perfect. I usually order 4-5 at a time because 1 or 2 are so tight that they get mangled during install. I made an aluminum install tool to support the liner during install. A 7/16" lag screw can be used to extract the old liner. The striker gets wet sanded up to 5000 grit before polish, along with a 4# Wolff striker spring. I also lightly wet sand the inside and outside of the striker spring with 5000 grit sandpaper. The safety plunger also gets a wet sand/polish and I swap in a reduced power plunger spring from Wolff. One thing I don't like about the gen5 is how the trigger bar rubs against the right side slide stop lever. Instead of polishing the contact points, I just replaced the entire trigger group with a Gen4 including the single-side slide stop lever. I had an Agency trigger with a Gen3 trigger bar on hand so that's what's in there now. I did swap over the gen5 ejector though. The now gen4 trigger return spring was replaced with a 6# competition spring. Connector and trigger bar get stoned, wet sanded, and polished. I also lightly wet sand the center of the trigger pivot pin with 5000 grit before hand polish. I don't polish the outsides of the trigger pin since I want friction to prevent the pin from rotating in the frame. I want the pin to remain stationary as the trigger rotates around it for consistency. I wet-sand on a $3 marble tile sample from the hardware store, but a mirror or piece of glass will also keep the sandpaper nice and flat. The reason I wet sand instead of just use a Dremel felt wheel and Flitz, is because flatness is just as important as smoothness. Imagine a rough ice skating rink. Sure it's slippery, but trying to skate on rough ice sucks. By wet sanding with fine sandpaper first, it keeps the surfaces level and minimizes metal removal. Ideally, I'm just slicking up the existing nickel plating, but some areas like the cruiciform and trigger bar safety tab or "bird's head" are left rough from the stamping process. Those edges get stoned flat before sanding and polishing. The last "trigger" mod is to wet sand the trigger guard. My finger sits low in the trigger guard and often drags a bit, so I slick up that area with 600, 1200, 2000, then 3000 grit sandpaper that's been oiled down with Slip2k. My finger drags less on the smooth plastic, and doesn't get pinched when the skin rolls up under the tip of the trigger on reset. My connector of choice is the Ghost Evo 3.5. Some people like the Glock's "wall", but I prefer the smooth DA-like feel of the trigger. I can feel the trigger bar bump up against the safety plunger and consider that the "wall" when prepping the trigger. Break and reset are a hair longer than a "-" or 4.5 connector, but I don't notice except during slow-fire. Break is right under 3#. Since the channel liner, striker, and spring are slicked up, I get reliable ignition from the 4# striker spring.
  14. I started off carry optics with a used gen3 34 figuring it was close to the comped g19 I carry. I got bit by the gamer bug and picked up a used SP-01 Tactical. I ran it for 6 months but I felt the extra weight was slowing my transitions and my splits weren't any faster. Plus I was always waiting for some small part like the TRS or something in the sear cage to break. I didn't want to go back to Glock though as I'd been spoiled by the CZ's 2lb trigger and ergos, so I picked up a used P-10F OR. I though I'd found "the one". Glock weight, short 2.5lb trigger, great ergos, and metal mags that drop free. But like the SP-01, the thought of parts breakage is always in the back of my mind. In two months I've broken the ejector twice, once mid-stage, and the rear insert is starting to rattle in the frame due to the roll pins elongating the holes in the polymer. It outperforms the Glock all day, but I don't know if it's worth not having the piece of mind of the Glock's reliability, or the fact that I don't have to carry a full set of tools to swap in parts. When your buddy absentmindedly slams a sand-filled mag into your CZ, you'll wish you could detail strip it without a needing hammer. I'm close to swallowing my pride, admitting I was seduced by the CZ siren song, and just picking up a gen5 G34.
  15. I thought about that, but then the spring seat will cut into the hole for the roll pin. I’m liking there reverse plug idea though.
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