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    Earl An

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Finally read the FAQs

Finally read the FAQs (3/11)

  1. A G17 length guide rod is long enough. The P10F shares nearly the same amount of travel and free space for the spring as the P10C, so G17 springs will bind and reduce rear travel. A Wolff or Springco roundwire spring for a G19 works with the .275" diameter rod and won't coil bind.
  2. The CGW SS rod weighs 0.7oz. The Jentra .275" Heavy weighs 2.0oz after it's cut to length.
  3. A 2oz package of JB Weld is probably enough for 3-4 grips. The SC layer is .015-.017” thick. About the same as a business card.
  4. I just SC'd my 2nd frame. I de-greased the frame with rubbing alcohol then masked off the edges with 1mm wide flexible vinyl tape used for masking pinstripes on cars. Much easier to bend around curves. Then extended the mask with strips of blue painter's tape. Roughened up the smooth areas with 220-grit and cleaned with more alcohol. Painted on JB-Weld Original Cold-Weld. Sprinkled on 60/90 all over the frame, lightly pat it down(wear nitrile gloves), sprinkle more , pat some more, repeat a few times. Let it sit for an hour then carefully removed the tape. Sprinkled more media on the exposed glue and used a plastic pick and old credit card to straighten out lines. Then let it cure for 24 hours before handling. Prepped. Painted with JB-Weld Right after peeling the paint.
  5. How did you redo it? Did you grind off the old SC or just put another layer on top?
  6. Well crap. That sucks because the opening itself narrower than my gen5 Glock34. Can I thin it? Does USPSA have a max width dimension or is it a judgement call? Worst case I can just hack up an X-frame.
  7. I just got mine and love the ergos. Points higher than the standard grip, but lower than the X-Grip. My favorite part is how the front lip of the magwell pushes up on my pinky and wedges my fingers against the trigger guard. The trigger guard is nicely raised so it doesn't rub at all my middle finger knuckle. Size wise it feels like a standard medium grip module. I found that Legion/X-grips are too wide at the top near the tang and dig into my thumb knuckle. My only complaint is that the texture on the sides is way too slick and with the way they cut out out the thumb area, my support palm doesn't have any traction. So I went ahead and SC'd the grip. This will be on my CO gun once matches start up again.
  8. So I realized that a 1911 spring plug fit perfectly in my P320C slide. I just had to trim off the rear so it wouldn't stick out past the slide dustcover. I used a GrayGuns Fat p228 rod, a custom made rod, and a G19 rod to try out some springs. Results: OEM Sig P228 Blue spring: Unmodified but barely closes the slide OEM P250C spring: Unmodified but cannot close the slide against the striker spring. Wolff 15# P228 spring: Unmodified but cannot close the slide against the striker spring. ISMI 15# Glock 19 spring: Had to cut off 5 coils before the slide would travel fully to the rear. Cannot close the slide. S&W M&P 2.0 3.6" OEM spring: Unmodified but is heavier than OEM P320C spring near end of stroke CZ P10F OEM spring: Had to cut to cut off 4 coils to maintain slide travel. Feels similar to OEM spring but with reduced preload. So only the M&P 2.0 3.6" and cut down P10F spring will actually fit in my P320C. The problem is, both reduce pre-load but not final weight when the slide is fully back. Since there's no hammer to delay the slide, this is the opposite of what I want. Without extending the slide to allow for a longer spring, the 2-piece oem setup is more ideal. So I picked up an extra inner spring, then took my OEM recoil spring apart and cut off 2 coils. It's not as easy as an uncaptured rod, but not a big deal if you have a sturdy vise. My friend asked me how to take one apart so I made a quick video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_zbdjbSiQA I'll try the single springs but I'm 99% certain the modified oem spring will function better.
  9. If it works, you’ll be able to make your own.
  10. Look at the bottom of the slide. There's a ramp near the front of the rib that runs down the center just before the breechface. So even though you can get the mag seated when loaded to 23, as the slide retracts, the ramp has to push the top round down further into the mag. If there isn't enough free space in the mag, it will create a ton of mechanical resistance as the slide starts to travel rearward since the mag spring is bottomed out. You'll probably notice a huge difference in effort when retracting a closed slide on 23 vs 22 rounds. A lighter recoil spring won't help much in this case. Most striker fired guns have this ramp while I've never seen one on a hammer-fired gun. I think the ramp uses the pressure from compressing the top round to slow the slide down a bit since there's no hammer to provide the same resistance early in the slide stroke. Fortunately, as you use the magazine, the springs should settle a bit. So instead of stacking perfectly on top of each other, they shift around a bit and open up a little more space for the spring to compress. I've heard some guys can load 24 rounds into their XDM mags, but I think the 5.25" XDMs don't have a ramp on the center rib.
  11. Gonna try out an OEM "white" spring from a P228/229, an OEM P250C round wire, and a 15# P228 spring from Wolff. Hopefully the Wolff works since it's available in a wide variety of weights. The biggest problem is there's only .682" of space for the spring when the slide is fully to the rear with my adapter plug and guide rod. I'm using a modified 1911 guide rod right now with a base thickness of .070". The plug takes up another .083". I have a GrayGuns fat rod for a 228/229 on the way which should have a thinner base. If I need more room, I think the hollow P228 oem guiderod has an even thinner lip. Hopefully that's enough because I don't want to ream the slide for a reverse plug.
  12. Guide rod is done. Chopped an old XD spring as a place holder. Not strong enough to keep the slide closed. Just waiting for the spring to arrive on Monday.
  13. Not without cutting up the slide. I'd have to bore all the way through the hole and cut it for a reverse plug like on bull barreled 1911s and it would only gain back .100". Plus that concentrates a lot of stress on the relatively thin corners of the plug. Maybe for weak loads and a 10-12# spring, but in that case the comp wouldn't be as effective. The user would be better served just swapping to a longer barrel/slide. In my case, I can't extended the plug or it will hit my suppressor. I have an Omega9k and it will barely cycle with 147 subsonic and doesn't always lock the slide back. I tried just cutting down the inner spring of dual spring assembly. By the time I removed enough coils to lock the slide to the rear reliably, it removed enough preload that it doesn't always fully close the slide on a full magazine.(OEM 21 round) My main concern with the P228 springs is that they'll wear out quickly and need frequent replacement. But my P320 is currently a range toy (SBR'd with a B&T chassis) and I'm used to changing recoil springs every 5-8k on my competition guns anyways. My overall goal is to figure out something that works with mostly off the shelf parts and basic hand tools.
  14. Progress: The bad news is, I don't think a single recoil spring setup is feasible with a P320 SubCompact. There's barely enough room for a 4" let alone a 3.5". I took some measurements on my p320 compact/carry slide. There's only .866" of space for the spring when fully compressed. My adapter ring eats up 0.100" and another 0.070" for the base of the guide rod. That leaves only .696" for the spring at full compression. My thinnest ISMI 13# G19 spring is .896" fully collapsed. However, after digging around, I saw that the original 4" P250C used a round wire spring with only 12.5 coils. It's similar to the springs used in the P225/228/229 series which look very similar to a chopped 1911 recoil spring with much steeper helix angle. So I ordered a 15# Wolff P228 recoil spring. In the meantime, I made an adapter plug from some 317 stainless rod. I based it around the dimensions for 1911 spring plug but I added a chamfer inside the rear to prevent the recoil spring from hanging up as it kinks on the rod. I'll test the fit of the plug with a Glock spring and guiderod tonight.
  15. I've been thinking about how to retrofit a single recoil spring into my P320 Compact slide so I can tune the spring to run light loads better when suppressed. I measured the stroke distance of the slide at 1.969". My 4.25" 1911 stroke is 1.952". So there might be enough room for a 1911 Commander spring to function without binding. I've got some ideas for a guide rod and adapter setup and should have parts in hand next week to start tinkering. Regarding the P320 Sub-Compact, ISMI makes flat-wire springs for 3.5" 1911s, but without an SC slide on hand to measure stroke length or minimum space needed when the recoil spring is fully compressed, I don't know if they'd even fit. But if I can get my Compact adapted to a single spring, it shouldn't be too hard to make one for an SC.
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