Paul49

In your opinion what other parts other than the tube does the M3K need? My 24" Beretta 1301 bought in April came with a midbead. If you read the mega thread on the 1301, you'll see multiple recommendations to Loctite the midbead in place since it can come loose and fall out. Maybe the guy in the video already lost his midbead before making the video. The midbead lines up nicely with the front fiberoptic just like a front and rear rifle sight set up. If you read the M3K mega thread you'll see it often needs other internal refinements to be fully reliable. Many do that work themselves, others choose to have a reputable gun smith do it, like MOA Precision. That work will account for some of the price difference.

Without looking up the law, but having dealt with government regulators for nearly forty years in health care, I've experienced them making up rules as they go along. The inspector general for Medicare came to our large university system looking for fraudulent Medicare billing, such as faculty billing for care provided by residents without direct supervision. They had already nailed several other prestigious universities for fines upwards of twenty million dollars. In our case after six months they hadn't found anything. They said they'd keep looking until they did or we could give them ten million dollars to go away. Their whole search was for fraud or overpayments. They were not the least bit interested in making good on any proven underpayments. If you restamp the serial number elsewhere and obliterate the original, how can you prove to the ATF you didn't change that number to hide something nefarious? Look what happened to Stag Arms over serial numbers. I'll bet several other companies quickly cleaned up their processes after that. With an actor in New Jersey currently facing jail time for a semiautomatic BB gun, you gotta be careful. It probably depends on where you live and how the local police chief or sheriffs look at the second amendment.

Buried deep in the sixty page 1301 Comp thread were several discussions of adding the kick off to reduce recoil. Brownells lists four different devices with prices and manufacturer's part numbers in parentheses. I believe 1301 Comp owners described using the Mega kick off unit ($321.79, E00687) or the Kick off system Xtrema2 ($359.34, C87927). I have a 1301 Comp cooling off in California's ten day waiting period, read nearly the whole mega posting and decided to email Beretta customer service. They responded that only the one for the Xtrema2 was compatible with the 1301 Comp. My questions are several: Is that correct that only the Xtrema2 kick off is compatible? If others have successfully used the Mega unit, does anyone know how the two compare? Finally, Beretta's response included a link to their website which lists the Xtrema2, same part number, for $275. Why a lower price from the manufacturer than a high volume discounter? Is it incomplete? Thanks for your input!

Got a new 1301 sitting at the store under California's 10 day waiting period. Will see if this problem occurs with dummy rounds when get it home. Would appreciate if anyone has responses to the last couple of suggestions: "So before polishing anything, why not try a lighter spring (or cut a few coils)?" "Has anyone tried leaving the tube loaded to Max capacity for a week or two? I know that Beretta Mags work better when treated this way." Perhaps I can test the second suggestion if my new Beretta has this dysfunction.

Here is another dimension of fit I find confusing. Some say bring the gun to the shoulder, put it in the shoulder pocket. Others say that creates a rotational force around the long axis of the body that might tend to make the gun swing to the right with firing. To moderate or reduce this rotational factor, they recommend moving the contact a little medially more onto the outside half of the pectoral, so the recoil impulse is closer to the body midline with a reduced rotational component. The pectoral folks argue their location also puts the full end of the stock, from heel to toe against a solid surface that may also reduce upward or downward recoil seen if it would braced mainly at toe or heel................Moving the point where the gun actually rests against the body would likely change the effective length of pull as well as optimal pitch, cant, comb height, etc. What's your view on this Patrick? Should I shoulder pocket the shotgun or put it against the lateral half of the pectoral muscle? Thanks in advance and also thanks for your clearly written PDF.

Newbie to shotgun, about to buy a Stoeger M3000, but with no prior shotgun experience I don't know the pros and cons of various barrel lengths. My local range requires a minimum 24 inch barrel for their shotgun stations. Is there a good reason to go longer than 24 inches? Probably no single best answer, but would appreciate your advice.

Please consider supplementing the listing by geographical location for those who might be able to drive by instead of shipping? Otherwise each observer has to go to each website themselves to figure that out. I live in Los Angeles, within the People's Republik of California where just shipping any firearm can be problematic: I went into UPS once to ship a handgun to Florida for nickel boron coating, the clerk freaked out, so I left before he called the police. Another time when I went through my local FFL they charged an extra FFL to FFL transfer fee and then put me through a NICS check when the weapon was back from manufacturer repair. After all, maybe I had become a prohibited person in the interim. That added close to $130 to the cost of the work that was done.