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Found 3 results

  1. Hi Folks, I am curious as to why I don't see AR Performance barrels recommended/used more? It seems like for the price they offer really great performance? Is it just because it is a small shop that doesn't make that many barrels per year, or is the performance just not there? Anyone have any insight? Thanks!
  2. For better or worse, I have decided on 6.5 Creedmoor as my longer-range/precision rifle round. I've begun the reloading equipment purchase with a die set and new brass from two makers. I'll be doing a bolt gun in this caliber that I will share with my son. As a compliment to the bolt gun, I am exploring a semi-auto with a barrel about 20". Everything goes sideways when I pick this length. I see mostly large profile (.8"+ at gas block) 22" or 24" tubes. Lilja makes a 20" barrel that is expensive but it looked like it fit the bill. That is until I saw the spiral fluting! Wouldn't that reduce the flexural stiffness of the barrel more than flutes along the barrel long axis (e.g., discontinuities along the outer edges from spiral cuts)? I'm hesitant. Even if not a stiffness problem, it's an awfully expensive all-metal barrel. So, the question is: Would you please share recommended barrel makers for a 6.5 Creedmoor large frame AR (DPMS pattern)? I'm familiar with Rainier, Fulton, Proof, Black Hole (good price but worried about residual stress from hammer forging process), JP, and Lilja. I don't want a boat anchor and I don't need something hellishly long; the bolt gun would have a form factor more like that, you know? (ha ha) What part of the market am I missing? For this gun design, I'd be trying to maintain a modest amount of maneuverability compared to the 24-26" bolt gun. (I'd consider the 18"-22" range) Thanks, as always for your thoughts. :-)
  3. I shoot a Glock 34 in Production and am thinking about trying some moly coated lead bullets. How will that change my barrel cleaning procedures? I've been using the standard cleaning chemicals... Used to use Hoppes #9... changed to Mil-Comm MC25... and have been using KG1 carbon remover for several years now... I assume I'll need to use something different or in addition to the normal cleaners to remove the moly and/or lead... Any help/suggestions would be appreciated...
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