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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

IHAVEGAS

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Everything posted by IHAVEGAS

  1. My 929 - a real pain in the butt with leading until I switched to 0.358 bullets - had to be sent back to S&W to get a damaged crane repaired, took 4-5 months and communication was awful - needs more pristine brass than my semi autos - needs a Lee U die to keep bullets from walking - very accurate and with a BossHoss trigger job a very smooth 5.5 - 6# trigger. My 9mm SuperGP100 - Had to be sent back to have a new pawl fitted, took 8 days and communication was excellent - Wants very pristine brass, absolutely more fussy than the 929 - 7.5# trigger at present, hoping to take off 1
  2. If it was my post he opened up the chambers past the bullet, I did not anticipate the need to open up the areas that surround the brass.
  3. Thanks to all, sounds like roll sizing is not needed. I suspect that the clip fit on brass that has been once fired through a bottom feeder and marred by extraction is at least part of the issue. At the moment my moon clip checker is my 929, much that will drop easily into the 929 will not drop into the SGP100. I am going to play with some once fired & roll sized federal that I bought recently. May very well end up having the bores opened up on the cylinder but then you get into $'s and if the gun ever breaks I could be hosed when I send it back to R
  4. Have a very tight chambered super gp 100 in 9mm. Use a Lee U die and pristine moon clips but still have a too high reject rate as far as getting loaded moon clips to drop in like they should. If you folks start out with 1 time fired brass from target (not high pressure) ammo does that brass work for many reloads (130 power factor) without roll sizing?
  5. Shooting a heavy 9mm revolver at a steel match Sunday I had a squib that I did not feel or hear. Thought it was a light strike, r.o. said he saw the bullet hit ballistic sand behind the target or else he would have stopped me, so I assume he heard something.
  6. https://www.lightinthebox.com/en/p/g09-calipers-0-150mm-light-weight-convenient-measure_p7112116.html?currency=USD&litb_from=bing_shopping&sku=1_47&country_code=us&utm_source=bingshopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=bingshopping&&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_campaign=[EN][BSC][LITB][c2619][P%26E](US)(shopping)(L1)&msclkid=231aa3d94a361b23a400fcec14564de3 I would buy something a bit nicer, but you do not need to spend much to be able to measure and track primer seating depth.
  7. And, maybe not necessary, but OCD folks like myself really love the overpriced CZ Customs sight pusher. Will not fix elevation but works great for its intended purpose.
  8. Ignore the header, I plugged in 1050 FPS, 125 grain bullets and 0.4" sight height above axis. 15 yards would work, seems like I am more confident of the zero at this range. 25 looks better if you can group shoot well enough and your bullets fly straight enough to zero the gun precisely. There are several free ballistics calculators on the internet. Edit: Plugged in 115 grain and 1400 fps under the assumption that was characteristic for an open gun. 0 - 50 yards and you are always within 1" of zero both at 15 and 2
  9. I just started dropping in the 10x bushings by wrote on my CZ's. $60.00, easy peasy install, should have better wear characteristics I think, and the more precise fit to the barrel is obvious. That said, I agree that many CZ's shoot great without it and a smarter fellow might wait and see.
  10. My Mark 2 22/45 was fussy and too failure prone to consider taking it to a steel challenge match. At the advice of a friend I went through the mags (u-tube mag tuning video) and replaced the loaded chamber indicator with a blank (eliminates drag on slide) and installed the Volquartzen trigger kit. I was lucky to make it through a mag before and do not remember a single ftf since doing the work, but, disclaimer, I haven't shot it for hundreds or thousands of rounds since. The changes made a huge difference in reliability but possibly I could find that it now fails 1/100-200 and is s
  11. A different way to consider the question. If a target is pulled due to a scoring question, does the person making the final call on the target need to look at anything besides the target?
  12. "In God we trust, everything else needs data"
  13. I would be 100% USPSA, but IDPA is what the two closest clubs shoot so I do both also. I wish IDPA would do something about reloading rules, wasting perfectly good bullets into a berm so you can reload the fast way makes me crazy.
  14. I think it is a good idea. You can convince yourself that a wad cutter or truncated cone might "stick" to steel a little better and you can convince yourself that a round bullet would deform to the same shape all lead bullets take against the steel so it would not make any measurable difference.
  15. Good stuff. One day I would like to: 1. Gather some representative ammo. 2. Borrow a well built (consistent) popper from the local club. 3. Prepare a surface the popper sits on to prevent the popper shifting calibration during testing, maybe the popper sits on a 4x8 plywood sheet and spikes are driven through popper and holes drilled in plywood. 4. Buy some 1" diameter stick on target circles. 5. Set popper at minimum safe distance from the bench where you will be shooting, say 8 yards. 6. Determine the minimum elevation of the target circles for the popper
  16. Based on theory or based on testing and data?
  17. Any test data would be interesting.
  18. Shadow 2 is different than a well tuned SP-01 but not everyone agrees which of the two they prefer. I do not know of any criteria beyond personal preference that would suggest one is better than the other.
  19. One thing I forgot. My 929 needed a new crane - 4 month repair time from S&W, impossible to find out what was going on, one day it just showed up. My SGP100 needed a new pawl - 8 days and done, email notifications "received" - "in process" - "ship notification". No matter what you buy be prepared to send it back before you can rely on it, if you have modified it in the meantime be prepared to make it like oem or there may be issues. I pray that I never need to deal with S&W again.
  20. Might be better off looking at 38/357. If I were you I would start a plug and play thread. The 929's seem to be very hit and miss, the SGP100 in 9mm is brand new for practical purposes, finding 9mm ammo that is hot enough to make above 125 pf in a wheel gun may put you into self defense loads. When you add all costs (moon clips + belt/holster/clip holders/clip tools/tuning) and consider the limited market for resale, losing a "couple undo" might be very optimistic.
  21. Still trying to find something my SGP 100 likes, tough to do when you can not buy bullets, preliminary indication is that it wants something lighter than what I have (SNS coated, 160's .358 and 147's .356). My 929 leaded terribly with 0.356 coated. Threw them nicely for 50-100 rounds and then they started going awry. I do not think you will have a safe bet with either choice, maybe, maybe not. Anxious to see what other folks tell you regarding what the SGP likes.
  22. I wonder how long open will continue to exist now that we have welfare open for the special needs but frugal and rifle for the no self respect at all crowd?
  23. Many like the looks and feel of the S2, and the oem trigger will be good enough for many, beyond that I can not see any advantage to one over the other. The SP01 firing pin block is noticeable but if you make it right (polish and lighter spring) it still allows for an excellent trigger. On both guns the triggers and accuracy can be excellent, I ended up doing the same trigger work to the S2 that I did to my other CZ's but I am overly fussy. Disadvantage to no firing pin block is that if you make the normal mods (extended firing pin, reduced weight firing pin spring) and reload wit
  24. If iron sights are too much work, and recoil is too much work, and changing mags twice a stage is too exhausting to even think about, then it makes sense that the orthopedic gun crowd would not be big on pasting.
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