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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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Everything posted by IHAVEGAS

  1. Are there any tricks, or specific training methods, that help with getting two accurate shots off like you can with a bottom feeder?
  2. I use the FCD for my bottom feeders as well (coated still, sized 0.356 though) have never seen an issue in 10's of thousands of rounds. Do agree that the FCD could very well be swaging the brass covered portion of the bullets, but I honestly do not know any reason to care about that, accuracy is good, no leading (after I switched to 0.358's in the wheel gun only, major leading with 9mm sized coated, wheel gun barrel slugged at 0.357), bullets are not walking out of brass in the wheel gun.
  3. Interested as well. For my 9mm wheel gun I'm shooting .358 coated bullets and load with the undersized Lee die, I get it that this likely does swage the bullet a bit but have not seen any sign that this is either a reliability or an accuracy issue.
  4. Has not been my experience, they have been patient with me. It does seem like we could be as aggressive advertising proposed changes as we are about publishing change notices.
  5. I understand the legal issues with gripe threads about vendors, but why can't USPSA issues be hashed out?? Are we worried about HQ coming up with a lawsuit against the #1 USPSA website?
  6. Interested as well (Ruger), I have been shooting up what I already had (180 grain bayou coated), works well enough for a casual shooters IDPA gun, but likely not the best.
  7. I think I covered that one already. Free brass (I have 40), don't need to buy any reloading dies or otherwise mess with settings, same ammo will work in my 40 cal semi auto's.
  8. Before the SPP shortage it allowed me to never change primer press components, use the same bullets in my wheel gun that I use in my bottom feeders, and avoid buying any brass and avoid changing the die heights going from 40 to 10. Just my particular situation I suppose, although in the general case it seems like 10mm brass is pricey as heck and 40 is laying around on the ground like it grows there. Appreciate all of the feedback!!
  9. Been shooting 40's in my "10mm" Ruger GP for the last year or so. With the small primer shortage was thinking about going to 10mm so I can use large primers. Anyone know of a problem associated with cutting down 10mm brass? Am assuming that the 40 length will be better for reloads on the clock.
  10. A backup gun for the competition gun that I never shoot . . . .
  11. I have done that as well. On an otherwise unmolested smith and wesson shield the local gunsmith ran out of hammer and I sent it back to smith, they moved it for no charge.
  12. I normally think it is the Indian and not the arrow, but I can shoot with the smoother 5.5 pound trigger on my 929 faster than I can the notchy 7.5 pound trigger on my SGP. With the ruger and any challenging shot if I don't focus on the trigger and take my time I shoot poorly. Perhaps I will find a way to improve the ruger eventually.
  13. Tip heavy is something new to me in competition hammers. Why did you want that?
  14. If it was me I would contact baer and discuss the loss of accuracy at 30k.
  15. Anyone know how an overpressure failure from shooting several rounds of slightly too hot ammo manifests? Just curious.
  16. And that is a perfectly reasonable opinion. It is something that I am fine with, but I know from shooting my production gun and hearing the occasional comment that there are other folks that share your concern.
  17. Grab hammer, pull trigger so sear releases hammer, as soon as hammer is released let off the trigger. Some folks place their finger between hammer and frame and just roll the finger out after releasing the trigger. Those of us that shoot d.a. / s.a. production guns do something similar on every stage at USPSA or IDPA matches, it is a bit more dicey with those guns as you have to keep the trigger pulled so you clear the half cocked notch.
  18. Might be brand specific? The GP100's hammer safety provisions seem very robust and seem to have been designed with a thumb slipping off the hammer in mind. Without the spur it is easier to slip and let the hammer drop but it seems like manufacturers would need to be aware that even with the spur folks can slip and let the hammer drop (gloves - cold hands - etc.) and make suitable safety provisions.
  19. A revolver smith friend of mine attempted to quantify the value of bobbing the hammer on his smith. His conclusion was that the value was real but subtle, I am not sure the o.p. Will achieve his goal. I have not done it, but have read about removing some material on the face of the hammer to improve ignition on GP100s others might know details. If it was me I would send the hammer to Dave Olhasso or tk custom or etc and ask them to do a full competition cut. Even with no spur you can manually cock the hammer for group shooting if desired. Based on my 2 rugers it is hard to see much hammer fitting, particularly because those guns use shims to get the hammer to frame clearance right. Good luck. Anxious to see what reliable pull weights can be achieved.
  20. Trying to rush your post count to 50 in order to sell something on the classifieds?? The mods are pretty good at picking that up.
  21. I wonder what folks thought of the PCC nationals when they were at Sellersburgh In? About a 30 minute drive to the Louisville Ky airport. I'm high on that location after working 3 level 2 matches there but my opinion is biased because I like the folks who I know at that club and have shot there a good bit.
  22. Fast swingers is the really hard part to me. You could teach a monkey to reload and a dedicated monkey would practice it enough to become proficient.
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