IHAVEGAS

I never understood this way of thinking. I actually have more fun because I routinely squad with a revolver GM & an open GM and a good pcc shooter and a good ss shooter. It is interesting to see how different guns/shooters run the stages. Myself & the wheel gunner & the ss shooter never think of ourselves as having a bad match because we can't keep up with rifles or guns that have all of the special needs gadgets or greater round capacity. We also don't have an issue knowing whether or not we shot a good match. I would see the standing reload as a good opportunity to use a practiced skill. My way of thinking is no better than anyone else's, no umbrage intended, perhaps it is an age related thing.

My Ruger as delivered had a timing issue that scarred the slot on one or two cylinders and would occasionally cause the cylinder to bind up. Ruger fixed that by replacing the pawl, the gun would no longer lock up but whatever caused the two cylinders to be engaged differently (star or cylinder slot geometry tolerance?) was not fixed. After running the Ruger against my 929 my thought process ended with. 1. The smith is more fragile. 2. I can shoot the smith better (trigger). 3. No one anywhere seems able to get the Ruger trigger close to a well tuned 929 4. I still prefer a gun I can buy parts for or my revolver smith can buy parts for, advantage 929. 5. I prefer working with Ruger on warranty issues, much more responsive than s and w. 6. My personal opinion is that Ruger may be pushing the limits of their design and manufacturing tolerances by chasing that 8th shot. I kept the smith. The deciding factor was just that I end up with a better match score due to the trigger.

Thank you! My AA plate arrived yesterday but I wanted to share your modification with a couple friends. Seems like a valuable tweek for anyone with the oem Dillon plate.

Ordered one yesterday If you didn't mind sometime it would be interesting to see a picture of the beveled Dillon plate that worked out well.

I'm surprised to see folks leaving the comps on. I could not detect any benefit but perhaps that has to do with me shooting heavier bullets at around 130 pf.

I went to coated 358's because coated 356's would lead the barrel up. If your 929 starts shooting knuckle balls after 100 rounds or so into a clean barrel that is a strong clue. +1

I was able to get the ammo he would like to use "Factory 115 grain federal ammunition." to fire reliably with the right moon clip, but bullet creep was really bad - as in shoot 7 and the last bullet may have walked all the way out of the brass.

I only have one friend that shoots a 929 so I can't provide a lot of data, he had the same issue. Federal target ammo 115 grain. Do not know how much the lack of a slide/recoil spring changes things.

Do they hold up with wheel guns? My S&W 929 can't shoot some factory target ammo (federal for example) because the recoil impulse shakes the bullets out of the brass.

I wonder if that effectively translates into, the majority of people who would be effected by the rule change? Don't know, not implying, just wondering.

That is not the way things work out. The fewer rounds you have the more rounds you leave in the magazines so that you do not have to risk a standing reload for a make up shot or run a plan that avoids the standing reload but costs time. Now and then it is only 2 or 4 shots & then swap mags so you are ready for that next group of targets when you get there. It makes the game entirely different. If you enjoy the challenge of more intricate stage planning, hitting reloads slick, and not going to war with that challenging shot because you can't spare the make up shots, then you prefer low capacity. If you want to make things as easy as is possible then you prefer high capacity. I don't think there is a right way and a wrong way to enjoy the sport, but folks do definitely have their preferences. When I last shot limited instead of production I felt like I was cheating myself out of half of the fun of the game.

I know you figured it out but I figured I'd throw in a pic for anybody else interested, should have from the start. On this one it looks like they got the bend right and the slot width is right for the screw and washer. Mine has a large slot which will be ok after I run to the hardware store and grab a large thick washer, and doesn't eyeball as a true 90 degrees and is painted differently. https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/rollsizer-complete-unit-with-caliber-conversion-and-drop-tube#group=nogroup&photo=1 Good info. Will Rube Goldberg with the thing if I have to but for what it cost I am going to see if the manufacturer will make it right (it is only a week or 10 days old). Thanks all.

Best I can tell the drop tube bracket for my roll sizer was redesigned at some point. The original version I think was this one. My bracket, just received, is a bent piece with a fat slot rather than what appears to be a welded piece with a slot that fits the bolt well. Not fussing about the redesign, but right now the only issue I have with my machine is that I can't get the bracket to stay in place for long even with the screw tightened as much as I dare so I'm wondering if that is part of the problem. Any advice appreciated, 9mm is what I run.

Yep.

I can't explain it. With stuff like this I tend to think of a multi million dollar hydraulic press system my company purchased the rights to. Corporate engineering went through the drawings and eliminated everything that made little sense, after they built it it would not perform as promised, eventually the designers of the press reviewed the improvements and determined that we had taken their revision 3 design and modified it to very closely match their original design. Long winded way of saying that sometimes experience shows you what you wouldn't think of. Perhaps that thought does not apply in this circumstance, do not know. Cleaning the oem Dillon shell plate only kept things jam free for about 1,000 cases. Seems like only a very slight amount of the black crud is enough to cause problems. Anyone know if the double alpha shell plate helps with jams on the old two speed Dillon case feeders? The shell flipper that comes with the plate does not work with the older Dillons so I don't know if the AA plate would help with jams.

All of which look interesting and may help me down the road. Thanks to all for input. For what it is worth, I am a dummy sometimes. In the picture above this post you see the black rings on the drop tube that are from transfer of lube and etc off of the cases. My case feeder had that black gunk all over the exposed surfaces that contact brass inside the bowl and on the shell plate, I had not cleaned that area in years. I cleaned everything well with goo-gone, particularly the holes on the outer edge of the shell plate. Since cleaning I've only run about 800 rounds but I have not had one jam, which is a step change, and the plate seems to be dropping shells faster (a higher percentage of the holes in the shell plate are full). Before buying the roll sizer I would have benefited from cleaning the feeder, but my reloading is so much slower than feeding the rs that cleaning the jams wasn't really enough of a nuisance to fret over.

9mm only. Mine drove me nuts for a while until I rotated the drop tube holder farther forward (downstream) than what looked right to me. Now, as you said, the thing that keeps me from being able to walk away from it is my Dillon case feeder (all stock). Will look into the AA shell plate, but if I wasn't such a fussy fart it all is plenty good as is, I just have to multi task nearby so I can hear it when the shells stop rattling and I need to fiddle with the feeder a moment. Before spending money I am going to clean the Dillon shell plate thoroughly and see if the coating of lube and gunk on it from lubed brass is part of the problem. Fun so far!

Got mine yesterday. A couple limitations from reading the manual that I hadn’t noted elsewhere. 1. If your brass is already lubed the manual says it won’t roll size correctly. No biggie, I just happened to have a bunch of lubed brass that I suppose I need to clean again. 2. If you let the roll sizer run empty you have problems with jams. In my case that means I need to slow the roll sizer down below the maximum speed that my Dillon case feeder drops brass and be more attentive to the process than planned. 3. ?

Correct, it would never have occurred to me that you meant something derogatory about my home. Regardless, you meant it as a lite hearted remark so it is all good.

Hmmm. I'm an electrical engineer who has spent 30 years working with maintenance electricians if that matters, anyway, we can agree to disagree. Resetting breakers is certainly more convenient and both have a good track record, I will grant that.

I am a worrier so I wanted to make sure that I run one of these fellers without blowing fuses. Got a quick response from the manufacturer, thought somebody else might be interested. "Good question.....not many ask this. The commercial machines are TEFC single phase 370w x 110vac. They are fitted with a Nema 5-15 earthed plug for 15A rating. They pull about 11A on DOL starts. They are rated for 50Hz so will run comfortably on 60hz. "

Good stuff, thank you!

Makes sense. A lot of times at locals, and even somewhat at majors, a lot of butt hurt can be avoided if you are able to squad with like minded shooters. There is nothing wrong with being one of the deadly serious folks who would like utter silence, and there is nothing wrong with being one of the folks who is there strictly for the fun and camaraderie. Irritation comes about when you are the casual person in the serious squad or vice versa.

There must be 10,000 (100,000?) places on this site where people have contributed helpful links to information that they found valuable on Enos or elsewhere on the internet. I agree that you can do things the other way if no one has guidance or if that is what you prefer.

There always has to be one . . . . If anyone cares to contribute a helpful answer that would be appreciated.