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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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Everything posted by IHAVEGAS

  1. It is all IFG instead of EAA now I think.
  2. If I could make myself pass along a problem to another enthusiast I would have done that - seems to be what happens based on me buying two (did I mention I'm an idiot?) turds that way.
  3. Somewhere around $375 if they do the work I think. Note, the ammo that is accurate and feeds reliably with your old barrel may not be best for the PD barrel. My nickel. I would never buy another new Tanfo sight unseen, unless I had someone I trusted examine it before committing to the deal. This gun and a stock 2 40 caliber of mine were both apparently Monday morning manufactured, should have learned the lesson the first time.
  4. https://bayoubullets.net/38-357-124-gr-rn/ With 160's , win brass, U-die and just crimping enough to bring the brass back to the bullet I almost do not have any issues with bullets walking - never had a known issue while shooting but have seen them get longer if say I shot 6 or 7 and left 1 in the clip. . Am switching to the 125's - thought being that the critical contact area between brass and bullet will not change (tapered brass) and the inertia of the bullet in the brass under recoil (m*v) will be reduced by about 22%. Time will tell. Could be that the change to the recoil impulse using lighter bullets at the same power factor will work against me.
  5. Seems like this one is going to end up ok. With a PD barrel fit by their gunsmiths the slide feels tighter fit to the frame than the slides on my other Tanfo's. It is not, putting the oem barrel back in or just playing with the barrel out allows you to feel the slide to frame slop. If you very gently ease the slide closed it will stop as shown. On the first range trip I ran the first 10 rounds through it ok and after that I had two or three FTF's on every loaded to 10 round magazine. I also was disappointed with accuracy. Not fun. Replaced the recoil spring I had been using (9lb I think) with the oem recoil spring. Tried it again today, shot only about 50 rounds, no ftf, accuracy seemed like it will be fine for USPSA/IDPA with a little sorting out of what it wants to shoot and a bit more break in. I use 20 yard head shots as my accuracy gauge, if I can get 10 for 10 freehand (when I don't screw up) I call that good.
  6. Consistent and fair by definition means everybody gets whacked or nobody gets whacked, when to be inconsistent and unfair is where things get dicey. I try tp protect new shooters before they screw up but don't treat rule infractions differently with different shooters, not saying that is a better philosophy than anyone else's.
  7. I agree that you need guidance to learn the little tricks (use a closely sized slave pin when replacing the sear - a tiny Philips works great for positioning the sear spring - etc) , but to me it seems like after you have read the guidance and done it a few times you have sort of paid the price of admission and after that working on the safety style CZ's is no big deal and I think it is fun (sick mind?) . Have never touched a decocker style gun.
  8. Demand would need to justify the cost of cataloging and inventory, which might be pretty hard on a designed for competition right out of the box production gun. I think the subset of competition shooters serious enough to pay above $1000 for a competition gun but uncomfortable with lowering the hammer on a typical CZ or revolver might be very small.
  9. For me (6'1", probably average size hands for height) the ergo's are very different, no brand similarity at all. I sold a fully tuned SP01 and got the shadow 2, found that the 2 pointed high for me, felt nose heavy to me, and although the trigger was much better than the SP01 out of the box I ended up doing all the same things (sear, springs, disco, hammer, polish-polish-polish) to get it as good as my SP01 was. Sold the S2 and got an SP01 Shadow and I'm happy again. It all gets down to personal preferences or hand size, they are both good. If I was you I would do what it takes to allow me to lay hands on an SP01 and then decide. Oh, SP01 vs SP01 Shadow, I would not sweat the difference. You can get a great trigger on either.
  10. I can click on 2 empty chambers faster than I can insure the empty spots are correctly oriented during a reload, but either would be slow.
  11. Ended up sending the gun to PD to see if they thought it was worth a new PD barrel, they did, should have some rounds through it next week.
  12. You are saying that high round count makes lo-cap guns less fun for you?
  13. Agreed. Gun to gun consistency is often assumed, no experience with DW here, my experience with Ruger is that they will no hassle warranty it if it is not within their specs but quality control is more similar to mass production than to custom.
  14. The implicit assumption that all PM9's or R.Koenig guns are the same quality might be a bold assumption.
  15. Have owned 3 I think, the fit on one for a CZ TSO was very sloppy. When they fit I really like them.
  16. Or perhaps you are both right. Any sport - rules should be enforced, any sport - referees have to prioritize where to focus their attention and what actions (bagging - scoring - starting next shooter) can be done simultaneously.
  17. It seems like one of those accidents waiting to happen things. The table looked like safety tables do at a lot of ranges, it might be really easy to make the mistake of treating it like a safety table. Not saying the dq is not the shooters fault, but maybe a sign at the table "PCC staging only" or some other similar caution would not be a terrible idea?
  18. Different strokes. I like the Lee because the decaping assembly is less prone to pin breakage, C-clip breakage is not an issue and it seems less prone to primers holding onto the pin and being pulled back into the brass. The primers pulling back didn't happen often but when it did it usually messed up the plastic finger on the bottom of the primer tube on my 1050 and it was a pain in the butt to get back going, Dillon's advice was to deform their pin a bit and they mentioned a particular brand of primer that was more prone to the issue. Manually resetting the pin was never a problem for me, I keep the nut tight enough that the pin does not slip unless there is something inside the brass that would be prone to breaking a pin if it did not slip. Not poo pooing your solution, you know what works for you, just noting a different preference.
  19. Subjective judgement without blind testing sells a lot of really expensive stereo stuff, on the bright side it no longer sells a lot of medicines. Medicine adds in the newspapers from way back when are interesting. And raising the price often drives up perceived value. But when there is an honest testing method value judgements can change, https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/05/24/479163882/the-judgment-of-paris-the-blind-taste-test-that-decanted-the-wine-world
  20. It is nice when things start to make sense . My best guess on the hammer spring making the problem come back is that the shock of the hammer dropping allowed the pawl to wedge in place a bit worse, that might be baloney but the rest of the problem I think I understand now.
  21. Update, last I hope. With the gun 100% together I still had the problem, I have no idea why putting the hammer spring back in made a difference. The two positions of the cylinder where I had issues were positions where the pawl was contacting the star sooner than the other 6 positions. I concluded that by pulling the trigger very slowly and seeing a difference in how far the cylinder rotated versus the timing of the cylinder latch. I noticed also that the star could be rotated more in the cylinder when the cylinder was empty - the empty brass and moon clip reduce free play which seems to explain why I could get binding of the star/pawl with the spent brass/clip installed but could not get things to bind otherwise Put an angle on the upper left portion of the pawl and polished the heck out of it. Can not get the gun to fail again.
  22. 929 is working now, too much time and money invested to get it that way to be able to justify (or want to) start over.
  23. Between you and Cherokeewind I think you have fixed the problem for me. With the hammer removed I still had the issue, noticed it was on two spots of the cylinder only. After several pulls of the trigger (it is easy to get a lot of pulls with no hammer spring) the sticking went from 100% in two spots to maybe 70% and it required less force to pull the trigger forward when it did stick. Very carefully removed some material from the arched underside of the pawl with the Dremel and a small diameter stone and then polished it. Seems ok now, time will tell. Probably just my imagination but the trigger seems smoother throughout (polished a few other points while I had thing apart).
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