igolfat8

5.2 N320 @1.030”=130 PF If you want a super soft load, 3.8 grains SP or N320 = 97 PF

You need a lighter recoil spring to allow the slide to fully open. A heavier spring will return the slide to battery faster or not fully open with the ammo you are using which would trap the brass in the ejection port.

Brownells, Midway, Google?

So, is a 6:00 hold out of the question?

Have you checked CZ USA and Cajun Gunworks?

Mine is very easy to rack the slide. Have you had the recoil spring out of your pistol? It’s tricky to get it and the guide rod back in place. I wonder if you have somehow put it back in wrong or on a bind?

Thanks for the advice but he is looking for an aftermarket add on that is paddle shaped which in effect moves the mag release point closer to the strong hand thumb. I have one of these for my Glock but he wants one for his M&P.

A friend of mine is looking for an extended mag release for his M&P because he has a short thumb. I can’t find any paddle style releases. Any suggestions? I don’t want an extended mag release that just makes the button longer but rather a release that puts the button further towards the rear of the pistol.

I like the ELS and makes it easy to move stuff around on your belt.

I’ve got a Safariland belt and mag pouches. I had one of their holsters but didn’t care for the suede leather lining. I had skateboard tape grips on my 34 and some granuals fell into the holster and I didn’t know it and it scratched the heck out of my slide, arrrggghhh! I have a CR Speed holster for my open gun which works fine but isn’t the easiest to draw from. I have a Blade Tech kydex holster for my S2 that I like quite well.

Surprised you did not include the Burris FF3. I’ve had 9 of them and never a failure. My first FF I owned, the battery lasted 7 years and it was slide mounted on a .40 with well over 100,000 rounds on it. oops, correction ... I did have one that had stripped threads on the battery cover.

Bullseye powder runs well below published minimums and you will likely see better SD than many powders that are loaded light. Examine your fired cases and you will likely see a lot of soot on the outside of the case. This is a sign of back pressure blow by because the low powder charge didn’t produce enough internal combustion pressure to swell the case outward against the chamber walls, thus sealing the case against back pressure blow by. Most powders SD numbers come down as charge weights go up. The powder also tends to burn more cleanly at near max published loads.

I got mine installed today. My big hands really appreciate the added reach length. Thanks for letting us know about this new trigger.

Ask Professor Atlas. He is the resident expert here on CZs. I believe he, Eric or someone else’s here is making one.

I shoot coated 95 grain cast boolits for falling steel. I like lighter and faster boolits. Slaps steel down with more authority than slower heavier bullets.

Thanks for taking the time to post this thread. It’s certainly helpful for me. I agree that the only thing I don’t like about the S2 is how far back the trigger break is so I hope this will be a cure for mine. I should know in a few days, with fingers crossed.

Hi-Tek coating is cured and baked at 400*F which is not what I would consider high temperature . Keep in mind that lead bullets are cast at 700*-750*. I too have shot a lot of HT coated bullets in open pistols and you are correct that it will foul some barrels and most comps. Powder coated / polymer coatings won’t leave as much fouling, if any. I’ve recovered powder coated bullets from berms and the rifling will not cut through the coating but the HT bullets I’ve recovered always show bare lead exposed in the groove and land marks.

My a Shadow 2 is legal for CO class. I had the slide machined to make weight.

IDPA rules also specify one must shoot to slide lock or do a captured reload. No mags are allowed on the ground with live ammo in them unless you pick it up before your next shot.

I don’t like the aluminum CZ grips. They are OK if your hands never sweat but the least amount of sweat and the grip slips. LOK grips will maintain excellent traction even in a pouring rain, in the most humid environment you could imagine. There’s actually no fair comparison between the two grips.

Some powders, with a high nitro content, will soften and attack the paint. Bullseye, TiteGroup, WSF, WST, PowerPistol all have high nitro content. What powder are you suing? Take a few tablespoons of your powder and put it into a zip lock baggie along with a couple bullets, then seal it up. Leave it there for 3 days and then remove the bullets. See if the powder is sticking to the bullets or if the gloss on the paint has turned dull. If so, then take your thumbnail and test the paints hardness to see if it’s softened. If so, then that is likely your problem. Ignition will blow Some of the softened paint off the bullets base and allow it to build up just after the chamber. If you choose to continue to use high nitro powder, it’s best to shoot to ammo within a day or two after loading. The longer it sets loaded and is exposed to nitro, the more ill effect it has on the paint. Try Sport Pistol powder and see if your problem goes away. It’s specifically engineered to NOT attack the paint.

Just curious how you change mags (Fast) on your S2. When you shoot to slide lock, slam a full mag in and then ... how do you drop the slide? When I did speed changes on my Glocks, the force of the full mag going in would release the slide but not so on the S2. I’m used to inserting the mag and then sliding my support hand into my grip position but now that I have to thumb the slide release, it doesn’t transition into a fast regrip. Just looking for some ideas to speed up my slide release procedure.

My lead level was 34 three years ago. Traced it back to shooting indoors in the winter months. I’ve worn a respirator for the last two winters and my level has dropped to 12 and holding steady there.

It doesn’t crush cases but rather spits them all over creation.

I got mine set up over the weekend. My main use will be de-capping 9mm brass. It doesn't run out of the box and if you are not willing or able to spend LOTS of time tinkering, don't buy one! After two days of frustration and almost on the verge of returning it for a refund, I've got mine running 90% reliable. The main issues were in the automatic transfer and feeding of cases. I've got mine hooked up to my Dillon case feeder and its doing a much better job than the single stage process I was using before so I am happy with the little APP. I just wish Lee would have spent more time in R&D and product set up before rushing it to market.