igolfat8

Another plus 1 of FF3’s. I have 8 of them and never once have I had a failure of any sort. My first battery lasted 7 years! I would suggest going to a lighter bullet and slightly hotter load. This will make the slide open faster and improve ejection allowing the brass to get out of the way before the slide returns to battery.

Then you sir have a great scale!

1) Every barrel is different: from the bore ID of one barrel to another there is variation to the way the rifling were cut to the way the bore may have some slight taper to the bore’s surface finish to the unique coating that (may) or may not have been applied? All these factors affect the bullet to barrel sealing and drag on the bullet which in turn affects the bullets velocity numbers you see on your chronograph. 2) You may be at the top of your load specs for your particular bullet / barrel combination. When you hit that palteau then loading more powder will flatten the velocity and actually make it go the other way. That is the danger zone you want to avoid. 3) I have loaded higher but just because I or someone else has doesn’t make it right or safe for someone else to do. Have you slugged your barrel?

Take a load and place it on your electronic scale and note it’s weight. Now lift it off the scale then place the same load back on the scale and note the weight again. Repeat this about 5 times and i bet you will see different numbers. Every electronic scale I’ve owned or used has this inherent flaw. I just don’t trust them.

Are you using a balance beam or electronic scale? I don’t trust electronic scales and only use beams. Also I suggest you zero each and every time you use it.

As a follow up ... I got my Manson reamer and it worked like a champ on my TSO barrel. However, when I used it on my S2 barrel I ruined the reamer. The black (HARD) coating on the S2 barrel quickly dulled the reamer and rendered it useless. I just wanted to raise awareness in case others go down this same path. Manson does offer a resharpening service ($40) but by the time one factors in freight costs both ways, it’s more economical to purchase a new reamer.

I bought a new barrel from CZC and then I slugged the barrel to measure the ID and it measured .356” which is fine for copper jacketed bullets. I however, shoot coated lead and needed a .355” barrel, which CZC doesn’t make. Unfortunate because I had high hopes. They were kind enough to take mine back since I had never fired or fitted it.

It’s all dependent on the bullet you choose to use and it’s ogive shape. Load long and then just shorten a few thousands at a time until it pass plunk test.

You will have to shed some weight (1.5 ozs) from your S2 pistol to make the 45 oz weight limit in IDPA. Here is a link to the IDPA CO rules: https://www.idpa.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Carry_Optics_Official_Rules.pdf

I’ve run several thousand 95 grain RNFP boolits through my TSO with zero feeding issues at 1.010” OAL. Tonight I attempted to run some 120 grain FPTC (flat point truncated cone) bullets at 1.060” OAL. I had several FTF because the nose jammed into the feed ramp. They didn’t nose dive but just stayed level, parallel with the barrel. Any ideas why? Perhaps TSOs don’t like TC noses? Anyone else experience similar issues with TC boolits? These are cast lead with powder coating so they are very slick. Here is the bullet that won’t run. Below is the bullet that runs great:

I received my Manson throating reamer today. I have a few questions before using it. I plan to use cutting oil and go slow and turn it by hand on my CM and TSO barrels. Do you measure from the barrel hood to the end of the reamer to determine a starting point and use that measurement to know how deep you eventually go? Do you throat it for just one bullet or do you throat it for the longest bullet that you might use? I shoot coated cast lead bullets and have 7 different bullets that I could use at any given time and all 7 are different OA lengths. I’ve (dummy) loaded all 7 bullets and know the maximum OAL for each bullet using. Stock barrel and I plan to throat the barrel so it can accept a 1.170” cartridge.

EGW on mine too.

Does anyone make a magwell for a CM or TSO with plastic inserts like a Dawson Ice?

Recently I shot my first IDPA using my G34. I shoot a lot of falling steel, Steel Challenge and 3 gun but I’ve never shot fast double taps (hammers) on IDPA cardboard targets. I’m used to shooting fast but those are mostly controlled shots. BTW I took a private class from Bob at his home a couple years ago so my grip isn’t the issue. Most of my double taps were hole on hole or very close but occasionally some were all over the place. My load PF was 110-ish and my recoil spring is an 11. Looking back I wish I would have mentally noted if my wider groups were after moving to another barrier or was it within the stage slicing the pie? I’ll try to pay closer attention next time. I just searched the archives and didn’t see much info on tuning the pistol for double taps so I thought I would post and see what others were doing to their pistol to improve accuracy for double taps (ie smaller groups). I realize the importance of grip, trigger and sight alignment so I was hoping to omit that from the responses. Thx for your input!

How would one know the difference?

I was expecting to get some extra recoil springs in the case but there wasn’t any. I was also expecting an extra slide stop or two but I only got 4 pins. No rubber recoil shock bumpers either. No extra hammer spring either. Having got all those extra spares in my TSO case I was expecting to see them inside the CM case too. Just wondering what y’all got inside your new CM case?

Got it on with no problems. Are both barrels identical? The barrel with the front sight on it is black and the other barrel in the bag was bright SS. When I compared them side by side they sure looked identical. However I installed the comp on the bright SS barrel.

That’s good news. Thanks!

Just got a CM and need to install threaded bbl and comp. Do y’all Loctite the comp on?

Let’s say there are no power factor requirements to meet and you are shooting a stock (not open) pistol. How would you tune the pistol to shoot the flattest and fastest, tightest double taps? Obviously grip strength and trigger control are paramount skills for the person shooting the pistol but let’s focus our attention and discussion strictly on tuning the pistol and load.

3.6 - 4.0 SP will give you a very friendly and accurate load. I shoot falling steel with 3.8 in my TSO.

Hi Ezra, I cast and coat my own pills and shoot about 15K per year through my open G34s. What I have found is HiTek coating will deposit lead in my comps and lots of it. Where as Powder Coating will only leave a trace of lead in my comps. Another thing is if your using RS lead you need to let it age for a minimum of a month after cast into boolits to allow the lead to harden up. It seems harder lead will leave less lead behind. I have to clean my comps about every 3000 rounds. I remove the comp and submerge it in a 1:1 mixture of peroxide and vinegar. Then put that (open) container in a water bath in an ultrasonic cleaner and cycle it 3-4 (4 minute) cycles. This will usually remove all of the lead in the comp. If you have heavy build up you may have to put the comp in a fresh mixture and repeat the cycle. It sure beats digging it out with a screwdriver and picks. You can also soak the comp a couple days in Kroil, then install it and shoot a couple rounds and the lead blows right out the baffles. It’s messy but works. All powder coat paint is not created equal. I’ve had the best success with using Smokes PC paint. He is a vendor on the cast Boolit forum. If you are shooting minor, try 124 (Lee 120 mold) over 4.2 of WSF. It’s a nice soft load for steel but still makes a decent amount of gas to allow the comp to flatten out the muzzle. Another favorite mold of mine is Lee’s 95 which I’ve pushed to >1600 FPS with no leading and very little comp build up. I use aluminum comps (Carver Custom and Jaeger) but I only get about 7500 rounds through them before I replace them. The through holes get blown out from gas cutting and by 7500 rounds they are about the size of a 45 hole.

I totally agree George. I have the same set up on mine with a Burris FF3

4.2 WSF at 1.060” TC boolit is my go to accuracy load. Power Pistol produces some very accurate loads but I don’t like it’s recoil impulse. WSF is very manageable and soft shooting. BTW, put a tablespoon of your TG powder into a Baggie with a coated bullet, seal the bag up then check the bullet’s paint coating a week later.

Strike Hold is the best cleaner I’ve used to date. I’ve used nearly every gun oil on the market and I’ve not found any that surpasses cheap 30W non detergent motor oil. It stays where you put it and a quart costs $4 and will last 12 lifetimes.