igolfat8

It’s the bottom lug of the barrel. The hole, that the slide stop goes through, is “peanut” shaped.

Take a Q-tip and liberally apply Amsoil Off Road grease inside the peanut lug on the barrel. Then apply a light coating on the slide stop shaft. It won’t eliminate the marks but will drastically reduce the wear. Amsoil polymeric grease resists “pound out” and impact forces more than most common greases. I use a 10# recoil spring and have 30,000+ rounds on my slide stop and it has far less wear than yours.

The CGW 8.5# spring will drop the DA pull even more but will only ignite Winchester or Federal primers. Some may scoff at igniting Winchester’s reliably but mine has been 100% ignition with several thousand down the pipe in my S2. It will even light off CCI# but fails 1-2 per hundred. CCIs are OK to practice with since they are cheaper. If it fails to light one off just pull the trigger again and boom.

Undiluted Simple Green Pro HD works well. Some brake fluid works, some doesn’t. Slip 2000 725 cleaner. I’ve personally used all of these on burnt carbon removal, with excellent results. For best results apply liberally and allow to soak for at least 5 minutes.

I don’t want this to come off in the wrong tone but are they US Citizens? I would think they would have to speak or read some English to pass the citizenship exam, no? If they are not US Citizens, do they legally own gun(s)? If the latter, are you opening up yourself to liability issues teaching illegals how to shoot an illegally obtained gun?

Used to compete with Glocks and carried Glocks. Now I compete with CZs and carry a PO-1, G19 or pocket carry a 365 (on Sundays). Go figure...

Conveying safety, across a language barrier is paramount and I am not sure I could thoroughly do that? Sure, you can demonstrate grip and skills but when they start allowing the muzzle to stray in an unsafe direction could be difficult to convey in an immediate response with a hot weapon. Personally I would pass. How would you feel if they injured someone a month down the road knowing that “you” were their teacher? Seems like a liability case gone wrong.

Yep, both my TSOs have I’ll fitting magwells. Nothing a little Dremmel work won’t cure. Both mine run like sewing machines. Never had any issues with them.

Are you still using the 8.5# main spring? Any issues igniting Winchester or Federals? Have you ever tried the 10# CZC spring for comparison ? I’m using the CGW 11.5# in mine but just ordered an 8.5# to try. Excellent videos BTW and thanks for sharing them with us.

I’ve seen a couple comments that the SP frame is smaller but I would suggest that it’s actually larger than the S2’s frame. I don’t own a SP01 but it certainly “felt” larger when held side by side with a S2 in a LGS.

“ASP is not temperature sensitive” and that quote comes straight from Alliant.

My home cast, powder coated bullets. Using a Lee .356 - 95 grain mold.

3.8 SP under coated lead 95 at 1.020” in TSO

Have you verified that the trigger return spring isn’t broken?

If you have small hands the S2 frame might fit you better than the larger SP01 frame.

I’ve never broken one yet and have 10’s of thousands of rounds on some of my CZs. Something that hasn’t been mentioned or questioned is lube on the pin. I personally don’t think oil is the best lube for the pin and the barrel’s peanut slot because oil doesn’t have a high enough film strength. The important property of film strength is its ability to keep two surfaces separated from contact and theoretically if there is never any contact then there won’t be any wear. I use grease on both the pin and slot. Not any grease but more specifically Amsoil polymeric grease. Just search YouTube for “Amsoil grease pound out test”. Amsoil grease has the ability to stay in place and resist pound out forces better than many other greases. I am not affiliated with Amsoil but I am a fan of their grease. Here is a link to a test: Here is another impressive grease but I’ve never used it ... yet.

Have you actually tried what I suggested? You might be surprised?

I had 3 Dillons, 2 Frankfort Arsenal's, 1 GemPro, 1 Lyman and 2 Hornadys. All did the same thing as I described above. Dillons, Hornady and Lyman were all returned to OEM and replaced. All replacements did the same thing. YMMV. Glad you got a good one but the floating numbers drive me nuts.

Take the load you are weighing and put the pan on the scale. Pick it up and set it back down. Do this 5 or 10 times and I doubt you will get the same number twice. Every digital scale has the same flaw. Balance beams are spot on, every time.

I totally agree. Just got my S2 slide back in 14 days from the date I shipped it. I was blown away by the overall quality of machine work and finishing. These guys are 1st class machinists that actually put a premium on quality work and excellent customer service.

Put on a set of LOK Bogies and shoot it. The stock trigger is great and only gets better.

Are you using lube Or running dry? You should be using lube, even if your using carbide dies. Are you over belling the case mouth? This will cause brass wear. What station is the brass wear coming from? If it’s the crimp station then it’s likely your over belling and causing wear after the case mouth bell is closed up during crimping. Clean off the shell plate and run only one case around the plate at a time until you locate the station that is causing the brass shaving.

I have 9 FFIII’s. My original is 8 years old, frame mounted on my open Glock 34 that has well over 100K rounds through it. The original battery lasted 7 years in that sight, which is crazy, I know. Most of mine are frame mounted but 3 are slide rides with zero issues. I have not had ANY problems with any of my FFIII’s until today. My dot kept going out tonight on my G34 (slide ride). I figured the battery was failing so I unscrewed the battery cover and noticed it was loose. Then I tried to tighten it and the darn thing was stripped out. First and only failure to date. Never say never, right. But ... maybe this thread is just a jinx?

Factory recoil springs too?

I would suggest SLOWLY pushing mag release just far enough that the mag drops free of its own weight using a very light grip. This will confirm the mag is not binding. Next, Insert the mag and push release rapidly and hold it firmly to the extreme right and see if it binds. Then if it does you’ve found the issue. I would also experiment with light, firm and extra gorilla firm grips to see if the issue repeats under any of those conditions. It’s just a matter of eliminating possible variable one at a time.