sitw

Funny about Titegroup and how powders fall into and out of favor. Seemed like at one time everyone was recommending Titegroup. Maybe because it was cheap, available, and except for the dirty part, works? I dunno.

Seems to be the same in a blow back PCC. I tried Autocomp in my JP PCC, it is what I had on hand, just to see what it would feel like. Didn't like it at all. There is a reason all the PCC guys and gals are using fast powders for PCC, they work better.

I have never had a primer not go off from being seated too far, but sure have had the opposite problem. Half the time soft Federal primers have witness marks from seating, then I know they are home

You would be surprised at the repackaging and laziness that goes on. Not saying I know Lucas does so, but in other markets and other companies . . . Guns don't put nearly the amount of stress on a lubricant as an engine does. Gun stresses are shock and vibration, not continuous high rpm metal on metal sliding stress. In a 300 round count match, about 300 rpd (revs per day) vs running a race engine between 7,000 and 12,000 rpm for up to hours at a stretch. Any good oil basically gets the job done on a gun if you clean and lube it regularly and keep it lubed through the day. I would say the opposite repackaging could possibly occur. Taking oils used in other applications and repackage it as "super fantastic gun oil". Again, not saying that is what Lucas does since I do not know for certain. Mobil synthetic, or any other synthetic work great on guns, get to choose your own viscosity too. They may be expensive when you are putting 12 quarts in a dry sump race engine application, but very cheap compared to all the "special" gun lubes. A quart lasts a loooong time.

In a past life I had a job as a methods engineer in the auto industry. That involved optimizing processes for reducing takt time. I recently started wet tumbling and this is my process that has worked very well, no waiting. I batch process medium volumes at a time, about a couple thousand or so pieces at a time. (use half the pins that came with the Frankford wet tumbler kit, allows more room for the brass and does just as well as using all of them) Wet tumble without de-priming Lay brass out on towels, spreading them out and laying them flat on their sides in the basement (dry in the winter and dehumidifier running in the summer) They dry in two days without any help Dry tumble for 30 minutes with Nu Finish to provide a light slick coating to help further processing and ensure they are dry. This is an extra step and not necessary, just like the results. Put processed brass into 5 gallon buckets ready to reload I keep feeding this process and never have to wait. What I mean by that is when I start the process I end up with a batch of brass at each "station" on the third day of starting the process. I then run a batch through the wet tumbler every night for a week or two transferring the brass to each "station" once each station is full. In a very short time I can have one or two 5 gallon bucket full of brass ready to reload. The longest most labor intensive step is the wet tumbling. The other steps take minutes. I have found this wet tumbling process results in easier reloading with more consistent OAL on the finished rounds, Never going back to dry only.

N310 with 165gr? Yeah, what he said . . . Mixed range brass? A little variance in the powder drop combined with a lower volume case and you get a round on the high end of the pressure scale for the load.

Just what I was going to say. Can do that with any gun. Just slowly shape the notch in the slide. We have had to fix a few where folks have gone too far though . . .

Another vote for Sarge's diagnosis.

Correct. 308 rifle chamber pressures and brass shape quite different than pistol. Also, a semi-auto rifle bolt operates differently than a tilting barrel recoil semi-auto pistol. If lube would cause such a problem on a pistol cartridge, imagine what problems changing to a lighter recoil spring would cause. Not saying for certain without testing that there may not be a similar condition with semi-auto pistol cartridges, but citing rifle cartridge data to prove something on a completely different design does not prove anything.

Sarge summed it up nicely. I don't spin the round either, just see if it drops in freely. Once you have done it, a round the plunks vs one that does not, you will know the difference very easily. Case gauge is a precision cut go-no go gauge typically made to SAMMI (Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers Institute) specs. The problem for me with case gauging is that some of my rounds won't case gauge but plunk test fine. That is because for certain guns I custom ream the chambers so I can load longer and not worry about bullet profile. So for me, instead of case gauging every round, I plunk test every round I will use for a match. It goes pretty quick once you get the hang of it. For practice ammo, I just check the overall all length every couple of hundred rounds to make sure my press is not drifting for some reason (dies come loose).

Sarge So there was a ton of drag in the mainspring housing due to rust? Darn, always learning. Too bad at so much of your expense.

Also inquire with the builder about slide to comp clearance when you talk to them about a replacement slide. Not much stress in that area typically.

Not sure there is any reason to regret it if it is shooting well, but I do agree that it is not worth it if the OP got a load that works.

I agree with Sam and Dr Mitch. I shoot IDPA and USPSA. In order to limit the differences from screwing me up, I shoot IDPA as close as possible to USPSA. I Don't try to figure out if a tactical or retention reload might net me that extra tenth and screw around with them. I shoot to slide lock, dump the mag where the rules allow me, reload and go. For 2017 the rule changes will allow the two to be even closer. They are adding fault lines, dumping mandatory RWR, can reload anywhere as long as you aren't exposed to a target that has not been engaged. I remember the short time IDPA had the flat foot reload rule, how stupid that was and how many times it caught me.

Can't beat first hand experience. Supports my comment that the OP should check with CK then, they have frames and slides in stock I believe.

The logic that someone would be targeted because they were open carrying doesn't hold up. You saying cops are constantly being attacked because they open carry? Agree that a few things have changed over the last few years with the past administration changing that dynamic, but they are now being targeted because they are cops, not because they have a gun.

I don't think the slides they have in stock are stainless. Mixing isn't a problem, just requires different amounts of fitting. I believe, not positive, that CK has tweaked their frames to closer match their slides so there is less fitting, but you are still going to have to fit them. Send them another message and ask about it.

CK has slides back in stock and many seem to like them. Do a search on the forums to see some of the comments.

Have the JP. Out of the box it runs everything from my open gun rounds at 1.18 OAL down to powder puff rounds below minor PF. Just wanted to see how low I could go and the gun still run. I only tried the open rounds to see if they would feed and run, haven't ever used them again otherwise. Doesn't matter the magazine either.

I enjoy shooting both. Since I am not out to conquer the world in IDPA, what I do is figure out how to shoot it as close to USPSA as possible and with only having to remember the minimum number of IDPA rules. So I shot to slide lock, dropped an empty mag behind cover, reloaded, and shoot the next position/array. I didn't worry about reload with retention or tactical reloads, unless the stage called for it. For 2017 it gets even easier with some rule changes. Shooter may reload at any time as long as the shooter is not exposed to any un-engaged threats Reloads shall not be mandated in a Course of Fire

JackSD Relax! I put your user name in my post and meant to address it to tanks. Jesus, wound a little tight? It wasn't like I said anything negative or derogatory either. And my post was relevant to the OP about match tactics. That being, consider how much points down and mikes cost and take it into account for his tactics. " My match tactics, feel free to give additional pointers please. " Tarkeg I didn't give misinformation. I quoted a rule in my first post. In my second post, where did I say I was quoting any rules? In my second post I was saying the easiest way to shoot a stage and not worry about the rule differences, like dropping a mag with rounds in it and leaving cover with an empty gun and exposing yourself to non-engaged targets. Two things you don't have to worry about in USPSA.

I misspoke a bit. I should have said more than just making the entire throat longer. He does the throat longer and slightly larger. It allows you to load long, out to about 1.18 and accommodate more bullet profiles. I think it is the leade part of the throat that he opens up just the slightest.

JackinSD, if you want to shoot it for fun and not to mess up your USPSA shooting too much, just figure out your arrays that you shoot to slide lock, make sure to be behind cover when you drop the mag and reload, and go to the next position. It is pretty easy once you get used to it and don't screw around with retention reloads except for where the stage requires them. Out of all the rules, the reasoning for the retention reload is the worst.

The rules have been updated for 2017. Each point down = 1 second added to your score. Used to be each point down = .5 second added. So for those who thought IDPA scoring favored accuracy more than USPSA in the past, this makes it more so.

If you end up leaning towards an AR platform and don't want to mess around building your own, take a hard look at a JP. They do their chambers the right way, MG 124 JHPs at 1.17 drop right in. They sure did their homework balancing everything to get it to run well. Mine out of the box ran everything all the way down to my powder puff IDPA rounds. And you get a JP trigger which is pretty good.