sitw

Glad you nixed the idea. You would have to invest in suspender cause the darn thing would be pulling your pants down with just a belt!

Do they pass the plunk test in the new gun? Is it an Aftec extractor? If so, when it jams take a look and see if the round is running into but not starting up under the extractor at all. If not, tune the extractor and double check all of the mag feed lips to make sure they are set correctly.

Missed last year, hoping to make it this year.

" The rounds are hitting the feed ramp before they have a chance to slide up the breach face. " " The feed lip dimensions are set to the number you gave me Eric (-0.000/+0.001). " If the mag feed lips have been tuned, start next by tuning the extractor. What are you setting the rear of the mag lips at? Picture the rim of the round as it comes up from the mag and bangs into the extractor, it is at an angle not straight on. The more the angle, the more force required to get it up into the the extractor. Tune the mags so the angle is shallower and/or tune the extractor so the round slides up into the extractor easier. If it is an Aftec extractor, tuning means pre-compressing the springs and putting a very slight radius on the bottom of the extractor hook. Careful, it is all a balancing act. Go too far with either and you have other problems. If you go too far with the mags you can bend them back. Go too far with the extractor and you get to try again with a new extractor. But learning is half the fun!

If that was in response to my post, it is actually saving me money. I took care of everything pre-nup and now instead of feeding the shooting habit of two, it is just me!

ThomasPI I just noticed the top post in this forum about not posting load data here. I believe I am safe, no load data in my posts, just the technique for a beginner to figure out a good OAL. Check the other forums for more specific info. Hope this helps!

Once you are set up, have him show you how to figure out the longest you can load. I am sure you will want a single 9mm load to use in both the Glock and the the Walther so you will have to figure out which one limits your OAL for the 9mm. My guess is that it will be the Walther. The easiest way to determine the longest OAL is to set your press up completely. Run a piece of brass through the press but don't prime or add powder, this will be your chamber check round. Have your seating die set up to give you an OAL that you are sure will be too long and do what everyone calls the plunk test in both the Glock and Walther barrels. Keep adjusting your seating die and running the chamber check round through the seating station to slowly reduce your OAL until the round passes the plunk and spin test. Measure the OAL once it just passes the plunk test. Shorten by another .01 to .02 and you should be good to go. Do the same for the .40 round but of course you only have to worry about the one barrel. Doing this you should end up with OAL’s that are longer than any published load data from the powder companies. This is fine, better in fact. Use the recommended minimum powder charge for these rounds. This gives maximum case volume, lower pressures, and a nice margin of error for the faster burning powders suggested.

My personally built 2011 .40 Limited gun with would not run factory ammo reliably, 1.175 and above OAL ran flawless. After some mag and extractor tuning it now runs everything. I was very surprised to find out how tuning the mag made such a difference. However, the load recipe I like most uses a 1.18 OAL.

Yeah, then either Titegroup or VV N320 would be good options. You will hear some caution you against a "newbie" starting with these faster powders, but if you load light and long you will have no issues and love the soft feel. Do some searches in the reloading forums for minor 9mm and .40 loads using Titegroup. What are you shooting them in?

Thanks gents! Sarge, we know each other, RO'd a stage together at the Ryan Rocks match and have crossed paths several other times.

Member since 2012 and just started posting. Seem to have more time since the divorce, funny how that works. Will get to shoot more too!

I am new to the forum but not to reloading and using titegroup. Sarge is right on the mark based on my experience. Load as long as your mags and chamber will allow and that will keep you out of trouble with the faster powders such as titegroup. 3.2 grains @1.15 OAL works well.

So by practice rounds I am guessing you aren't trying to make major PF in USPSA? If you pay close attention to what you are doing and load light and long, either Titegroup and VV N320 both work well. If you like a lot of noise and flash, Power Pistol is great fun in low light!

Unless you like the the grip texture of the Gen3 over the Gen4 or money is tight, go with the Gen4 MOS, gives you the most flexibility. If for some reason you ever decide you want to try an optic and have the Gen3, it will cost you a lot more to get the slide milled than the price difference between the Gen4 and the Gen4 MOS. Grip size, the Gen4 with the medium backstrap is the same as the Gen3. Plus, you mention trying trying to fit a Gen4 mag release to a Gen3? Again, unless money is tight and you are getting a screaming deal on a Gen3 AND you have some skills to modify the frame, don't both jacking around with the Gen3. If you screw up, it will cost you way more the the delta between the Gen3 and Gen4 for a new frame. Plus, per the rules DFIVE3 posted, when a sharp RO catches the mods, if you get them to work, they will bump you to Limited 10 or Limited. I have had many Gen3's and Gen4's, personally I prefer the smaller grip and mag release of the Gen4's. Oh, and if you do end up shooting USPSA, you will probably add grip tape to whichever you get.

Ever sort it out? It is exactly as DRock said. The slide stop spring on top of the slide stop resting against the locking block pin pushes down on the trigger pin, thus the trigger pin slot gets hung up on the the slide stop. Wiggle the slide stop, pressing upward against the spring while pushing the trigger pin with a punch.

Thanks! For IDPA and USPSA production just a basic Glock 34 in SSP with the typical mods that allow me to run it in both. For USPSA in Limited a 5" Cheely Custom .40cal, long dust cover, steel grip.

Curious who built your open gun?

Not new to reading the forum or shooting, but thought it was time to actually post something and start socializing. I have been shooting IDPA and USPSA in SE MI for about 4-years now, I don't have any talent but I have a whole lot of fun. Hey, without us class fillers the good guys and gals wouldn't have as nice of prizes to compete for in the major matches, someone has to help fund the prize table!