sitw

Most smiths won't try to ream a nitride or PVD barrel. Switching reamers won't help. Try the Montana Gold 121gr IFP, they have a different profile and you can load just a tad longer than the 124 JHP.

If you can't evaluate it first hand it is exactly what tyler2you said. Even the frame may not be serviceable in another build. Same with the fire control parts. If they have all been fit to this particular frame the fire control parts might not even work in another frame. On a build such as this, both safeties are fit to the particular gun, not drop in. Hammer and sear are drop in, but if he tried to face the sear and didn't do it right, then the sear is worthless. If you can inspect and shoot it, and it runs 100%, then for a bargain complete gun go for it if you want. But I would not look at it for the value of the individual parts not knowing how much fitting has been done to get everything to work.

What he said

It isn't real difficult, but there is a feel to it. You don't want to go too light and have the reamer just ride on the chamber surface because that will dull the reamer. It needs to cut not file away. And you don't want to too far and screw up the chamber. You can feel when it gets to the neck, the feel of the cutting changes. It does take a few times to get the feel of it.

What I figured. They didn't finish ream it properly. Glad you sorted it out.

The trick to the.40 feeding shorter ammo is make sure the mags are tuned as well as the Aftec extractor. The CK gun should already have the extractor tuned correctly, all you have to do is check the mags.

Things I have seen actually break and fail, rare, but have seen it: Trigger spring Striker Extractor Things I have seen wear on high round count guns: All Springs - just like any other gun, they set over time and need replaced. Keep a spare trigger, recoil, striker, and extractor spring on hand. Extractor

Another C-more. Railway, Polymer Body, Standard Switch on a JP.

CZs are not known for generous chambers . . . That barrel needs a little cleaning up. As a machinist you understand that sometimes parts get past QC.

Wasn't trying to say you couldn't. Since you are a machinist then you understand that the first time you do something, it is a learning experience. Actually, a throating reamer would run you about the same as shipping and what the smith would charge. Check out Manson Reamers and their .001 over throat reamers. I know a good custom builder that uses a custom spec reamer that does more than just the throat for 9mm major, but you wouldn't need that.

Another vote for reaming. If you have never reamed a chamber, it isn't rocket science but you can screw it up. Send it to a smith with a reamer, shouldn't be any more than $30. If they want more, find another.

CZ and Springfield XD/XDm have short throats.

I run the same combo. Depending on your gun you might have to tune the feed lip dimension on the STIs, but that is it. We have, and ran into, some early design MBX and they weren't cut low enough in the front. They actually ran into the feed ramp. I have heard the new tubes are good to go.

I am relatively new to loading for 9mm major, but depending on what powder you are using, 1.09 with, say the MG 124s, is going to be a compressed load and you are going to have issues with pressure. Get the barrel reamed and then you have a much greater range to work up your loads out to 1.18 OAL.

Yup, now that you have determined that your loads are on the edge and some failing the plunk test, need to get it reamed and the above is a good way to make sure it gets done to where you need it. At 1.11 OAL it should just need cleaned up by a SAAMI spec finish reamer and not done by a custom reamer. Some custom builders building open rigs go with a custom chamber so you can load out to 1.18 or so.

You will be much happier . . .

The reason I asked about the OAL and plunk test is the failure to go into battery may not be due to a chamber on the nominal or low side of SAAMI specs. I don't have first hand experience with the BB 147gr flat point so I cannot say specifically if 1.11 could be an issue with that bullet, but in general, that should not be too long for a standard chamber, and if it is passing the plunk test, the chamber isn't the problem. Do the BB 147's 1.11 OAL pass the plunk test in the SA? If so, the issue may be somewhere else. Just trying to make sure you don't spend the time and money on a reamer and that not end up being your problem.

What rowdyb said, and why lock yourself into a specific bullet with a specific ogive? Get it to a smith who is familiar with the CZ short throat issue and for $30 or so get it reamed and not have to worry.

How long are you loading? You say the rounds prevent the gun from going fully into battery, they are also failing the plunk test right? If you are loading long, 1.15 or more with certain bullet ogive, even the SAAMI finish reamer may not get the job done, but it is the finish reamer you want and not the rougher. If you want to load really long you will need a custom reamer from Manson and spec it out yourself. But for a custom reamer you are looking at somewhere around $170, so best to find a smith that has such a reamer if you are only doing it once.

A combination of what everyone is saying. Start by cleaning the depressor plunger channel, plunger, etc.very well. Put in a new extractor and the Gen4 ejector. New depressor plunger spring. In time, some Glocks end up with the extractor starting to slip of the rim of the case resulting in eratic ejection and even stove pipes. I have a couple of other mods I do, but if you get them wrong you make things worse. I increase the tension on the extractor and modify the ejectors when this happens.

You run the risk of the basepad preventing the mag from locking in. Just what I figured. Yes, 9mm and .40 are the same, .45 is just slightly different.

Does it ever lock back and just not consistent? Not sure about STI, but some builders modify the slide stop. Due to this mod it will never lock back the slide.

Just like potato chips . . .

MM, I agree so hope my comment didn't come off wrong. I just didn't want anyone to think my suggestion was a way to skirt the edge on PF, which is basically useless.

And FYI, switching from an non ported Glock to a ported S&W is not really a step up in equipment, nothing against the S&W M&P. Cheap route, tune the hell out of the G17 or a Glock G35. Stepping up in equipment means a 2011 platform. And for the record, I love my Glocks and Springfield XDms, but they are different animals than the 2011 platform.