sitw

I was typing as this was posted, we said the same thing in different ways.

Work up your load with sorted and use that for big matches where they chrono so you don't miss power factor due to some screw up. Otherwise, mixed range pick up. That is not an endorsement to cheat on PF, it is just saying that your standard deviation is larger with mixed brass due to the ever so slight difference in case volume. It is anal and may not matter in the real world, but I hate to fail chrono.

If they won't accept your EBT card, you sell it for $.75 on the dollar and use the cash to buy powder and bullets.

All you need to do is grind off the arm, you don't need to remove all the other material on the side opposite the arm. The wedge or tape method mach1 mentioned works if the feel of the grip safety moving bugs you, otherwise just removing the arm is all you have to do in order to disable it.

Where you located?

But the $50 per gun isn't worth the customer dissatisfaction in my opinion. He should not have had to monkey around with it as much as he did. As BeerBaron said, you have to make sure you put angles on the firing pin stop on the side the extractor goes on to. Also, buff the rounded rear portion of the Aftec, it helps with the movement needed that BB mentioned. You basically just buff off the coating, don't remove any metal. Glad to see you are closing in on getting her to run right.

You are going to get a lot of different answers, there are many good choices. Personally I like the Warren Tactical plain rear with the matching fiber optic front.

One thing to keep in mind when tuning any gun by swapping springs. The variance on springs is pretty large. Same exact spring from same manufacturer easily is +/- 1lb so any spring weight suggested or mentioned is the starting point. Although, the 15lb ISMI should be enough to take the gun fully into battery even after a lot of use, I stress should. Easy test. Clear the gun, point it straight up, rack the slide and let it go, pull the trigger and hold it. Keep holding the trigger, pull the slide back, and as slowly as possible while holding on to the slide, ease it forward while not letting go of the trigger. If it stops before the gun goes fully into batter or hesitates and clunks into battery after you let go of the slide, you are on the ragged edge of recoil spring and you will likely get light strikes. If you go to tune the recoil spring do not swap striker springs at the same time, keep the same striker spring. These two springs work against each other for the gun going into battery and changing both without thinking which does what will have you going in circles.

Two things I have run across in high round count Glocks causing light strikes after running fine for a long time. 1) Firing pin (striker) tip erosion 2) Aftermarket lighter recoil spring taking a set over time and gun not going fully into battery, or pulling the trigger is actually pulling the gun out of battery ever so slightly. In both guns, go back to 100% OEM new fire, fire control, and springs and then work back towards the custom parts one at a time. Sounds like in gun A you might have done this, but you didn't mention the recoil spring specifically.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-ST2200T-Butane-Micro-Torch-330194/100564678?&cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|B|0|B-BASE-D25T+Tools|&mid=UThzd5Qg|dc_mtid_8903vry57826_pcrid_73529856928951_pkw__pmt_e_ The micro tip will allow you to apply the heat to the head of the screw without having to take the C-More off. Get the screw warm to hot, don't over do it, and they will come right out. Better than a heat gun heating up everything.

The DVC Limited will not be legal in IDPA, long dust cover, slide lightened, bull barrel. No bull barrel longer than 4.25", no dust cover or rail longer than 3.25", no slid cuts allowed. The DVC classic might, but to be sure take all the specs and compare them to the rule book before you purchase. With a 5.4" barrel, the classic overall length might be too long.

crazygiant I have shot both IDPA and USPSA at Racoon, and LGC is my home club. So I am sure we have crossed paths. Like I mentioned, I am not brand new to the shooting sports, not a veteran by any means, but not brand new. I have lurked her for a few years and finally decided to start socializing and posting.

Nothing against the Lone Wolf stuff, but I like the Jager Gen3 guide rods as well as their Gen4. What weight spring depends on if you are using factory ammo or reloads and what power factor you are reloading for. Give me a little more info.

vnboileau Yeah, my mistake, that is a newer product of theirs that I did not know about. If it is designed to replace only the larger spring, then yes, I would assume you tune it by replacing the larger spring and keep the smaller spring that comes with the assembly. But I want to be clear, I said assume because I have never worked with this new assembly first hand. Report back and let the rest of us know what you did and how it worked.

I didn't know Lone Wolf made a Gen4 guide rod? You used to have to purchase a Gen3 guide rod with an adapter. To your original question, the OEM Gen4 guide rod/spring assembly is a captured assembly, you do not take it apart. Take it out, set it aside. Assemble ISMI spring to the Lone Wolf rod and use some blue loctite on the screw. Put the Lone Wolf assembly into your Gen4 using the special Gen4 adapter they sell. You have to buy the adapter separately. I prefer the Jager Gen4 aftermarket guide rods, they do not need an adapter, they are made to fit the larger guide rod hole at the muzzle of the slide.

Lee carbide sizing die. I reload 9mm major and never have a problem. The Udie would certainly work as well, but I do not have personal experience with it. Also, I think I read somewhere that people who have used both have determined the Udie for 9mm is not necessary.

What he said. I love competing with a 2011 and since I can take them down after every match to check them over they run near flawless . . . key word near. But trust my life with it in an environment where it may not get maintained that well and get beat around, sorry, no way. And it doesn't have to be a Glock if you just can't bring yourself to carry a Glock.

Like I said, some run with one spring. My .40 limited I use one spring with the Aftec, my 9mm Open runs fine with both. With the tuned mags and extractor I can even run factory short ammo in my limited gun which is not always the case with .40 limited guns.

Reading how short everyone has to load had me wondering. For the heck of it I went and did a plunk test with my open ammo. Montana Gold 124 JHP 1.17 OAL. It more or less plunked but didn't spin freely. The JP barrel lets you load long.

Did you radius and smooth the bottom of the hook and the groove belly? And are you still using a 7lb recoil spring? Yeah, you probably have a tad too much tension on it now, but you are close. Throw in an 8 and see if that helps before screwing around with the extractor again. If it runs, oil the crap out of it and run 1,000 rounds through it. Then report back. The Aftec hook and groove belly still need cleaned up a bit and the springs pre-compressed. I have even seen where some run with a single spring to get things running smooth. But overall I think the Aftec is a tad easier to get working right and they generally last to a higher round count.

Length of barrel affecting chamber pressure doesn't make any sense. I have to believe a chambers dimensions is the primary factor affecting pressure, using identical ammo. Unless the barrel is worn, the bullet is creating a gas seal as soon as it leaves the chamber so what is after the chamber would have little if any impact. edit: just looked closer at the graph superdude posted, it supports what I believe to be the case. My JP GMR-13 runs flawless right out of the box, full power loads all the way down to powder puff loads out to 1.15 OAL.

Sounds like the extractor is not and Aftec. If it is actually loose in the tunnel they forgot to tension it properly. To confirm we are talking about the same thing, you can do this test. Take the slide off, barrel out, so you just have the slide with the extractor in place. Slip a loaded round up under the extractor to where the extractor hook is aligned with the center axis of the round. Shake the slide lightly in all directions. If it falls out there is too little tension on the extractor. When you tension it, don't go too far the other direction and put too much tension on it or you will get failures. Also, there is more to tuning an extractor than just setting the tension. By tuning I am talking about radiusing, smoothing, and polishing the bottom of the extractor hook and the bottom of the extractor groove belly. By bottom, the part that the rim of the round comes up and contacts as it is pushed up from the mag.

Be more specific on how you tuned your mags, what do you have the feed lips at? Yes on the round not coming up under the extractor. Is it an Aftec extractor? The next time it happens, look at the rim of the cartridge to see if it is not even starting to move up under the extractor. If this is the case, you need to tune the extractor. Speaking of the extractor, what do you mean by "loose in its tunnel when the slide is off the gun"? It shouldn't be loose. And as the other said, you were loading way too short, not only possible feeding problems, but if loading 9mm major, pressure problems.

If you can do a 1911 trigger you can do a 10/22

Yeah, like I said, unless money was an issue or you just love the grip texture of the Gen3 over the Gen4, the Gen4 MOS gives you more options. And the grip texture issue is kind of moot since to me, event the Gen4 grip is too slippery in a match so I tape up.